Can you use extension tubes on the convoy l5 as well?
Personally I’m pretty sure I’d rather have a Supfire M6 than a Smallsun ZY-T08. RMM mods both.
B42 I think you got the short end of the stick with your Y3. As far as resistor modding, I’m sure I’ve posted about it in at least one or two places. Probably somewhere in this big thread: YEZL Y3 CNQUALITYGOODS Group buy. 3 Versions. See post 274 for delivery details.
… rather than attempting to find where I’ve explained it before, we’ll just go through it again:
- Find the sense resistors. The Y3 uses two resistors in parallel, a normal setup. In this case it’s R180 and R150. The R is a decimal point, those resistors are 0.18 ohm and 0.15 ohm respectively.
- Determine the total (net) sense resistance. Use an online parallel resistor calc to see what the total is. PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR We can easily see that the total is about 0.08 ohms.
- Measure the output current (current to the LED). This should be around 3 amps with the stock driver and 2s or more.
- Determine the sense voltage: Punch current and resistance into an online ohms law calculator or just multiply the net resistance and the measured current together… 3 * 0.08 = 0.24v
(Or skip those steps because we already know the sense voltage is in the 0.24v to 0.26v range due to it being a QX9920 buck controller. ) - Determine the new net resistance we need: Now we know sense voltage and we know your desired current (say 4.0 A), we clear our ohms law calculator and punch in the desired current along with the sense voltage… or we just divide the sense voltage by the desired current. I’m going to use 0.25v here because that’s about right: 0.25 / 4.0 = 0.0625 ohms
- Go back to your parallel resistor calculator and see what you need to put in parallel to achieve that resistance.
- Purchase and install whatever resistors you need.
Tks wight. I think I lost interest in modding it after my Y3 showed up bedraggled and limping, then I had better lights arrive and I put it aside. Maybe I’ll try it soon with this simple info. I’ll need to buy a lens that actually fits before attempting to mod so I can actually use it in the prevalent rain though, the one they shipped it with is slightly smaller diameter and loose. Then I have to change out the emitter and driver for an MTG2 and get rid of the pea soup color…
Yes I’d rather have a M6 modded, I was just indicating a Smallsun ZY-T08 someone brought up doesnt have to be a bad selection if modded, M6 is just much further off the single emitter mark…
You’re welcome. I’ll have to take a look at what I have at some point, I don’t think I had lens fitment issues.
Further off the single emitter mark, but closer to the 3-4 cells mark. 
Well then if we are going there, I’ll go for a modded J12, J18, or J20 and 7,000 lumens instead! 
As for the lens issue, yes, its so bad with so much motion it clinks while using it constantly. I call it my noisy pea soup light. CW lights make it look green and warm, the X6’s 3C NW beam color looks to be a nice 4C tint next to the Y3 (which looks white with green shift vs it), while the X6 NW is slightly white greenish vs my real 4C tint C8.
I have (2) Y3’s modded with the MT-G2. I’m running RMM’s 17mm QLite Zener Mod on one for 6.2amps measured at the tail cap, made my own adapter 17mm to 23mm, put the MCPCB on 2mm copper ,with a 120 second Turbo and man it gets HOT! HOT!!! But do able!! Now the other is built the same way “EXCEPT” with RMM’s 22MMFETDD/ZENERMOD, it needs a 60 second Turbo or even 30 second Turbo, whoa this thing is BLAZING SCARY HOT at 120 seconds!!! Just saying……
The SunZ seems kind of underpowered and a bit homely.
Both were loose at first, I used .032” solder and made a ring out of it and put it between the bezel ring and glass, and slowly tightened and loosen till flat, worked out well. Then I found some 2mm black oring’s to replace the GITD ones. I have used in the past and it’s still on my SRK the wax paper card board that’s on the bottom of Hostess Sno Ball’s, I traced the O.D. and cut it out, screwed the bezel on and cut the I.D. out using a razor knife and the inside of the ring as a guide. Still there and seals well too? Hard to find the SRK o-ring’s at 2.5mm cause 3mm wouldn’t let the bezel ring screw down?
Stock tint was greenish, alignment meh big plastic piece that covered the MCPCB board and tried to center the over sized emitter hole, so not that well, I’m mean you could knock it around a bit, but it wasn’t repeatable if you kept loosening the head?
I have been looking for 3x18650 3S also because I think that to drive a MT-G2 well one needs the extra voltage. As such I just learned that the Courui D01 is 3P and so was dropped from my list but as it is 3P runtime should be quite good.
as a starting point
$25
For the money Convoy’s are hard to beat! Great quality!!! And YES Mr.Woodfiend you can use the extension!
IIRC dealsmachine is being tricky by not having free shipping.
Yeah I don’t prefer them either, just agreeing that if you liked them, Richard could mod them to be nice output.
Supbeam/Acebeam K50 or Olight SR51/SR52.
How about a Thrunite TN32, will run forever on it’s lowest setting.
The only torch of this config I own is the Olight SR52. And I can say it’s very very nice. Can’t really say anything negative about it at all. Of course being a multi 18650 light, it is somewhat chunky.
I will check out TN32. I had thought about getting the TN36 at some point…… After looking at the TN32 and Olight SR 52 on Amazon I also stumbled across the Olight Olight-M3X-XML2 which looks nice too. What have been peoples experiences with those? Runtime looks decent in the midrange setting.
Well what do you want to actually use the light for? The high powered TNs are good if you just want to turn it on and see something in the distance and then turn it off, not much else. I have a Vin modded TN31, it is an awesome thrower but…its kinda useless unless I’m in a very flat area in the dark wanting to know what those reflective eyes in the distance are as I’m hiking, and its very heavy for that purpose. I think the Lustfire K08 is about the limit of what I’d want to use to walk around with and even thats too bright in the center spot. The TN31 I have really hurts the eyes to use for walking by the end of the trip, even on low. The problem with those really good throwers is the center spot is very bright compared to the outer regions, so your eyes trying to see in the dark dilate too much for use of the center spot, which you tend to keep using to focus on things to see them. Then your eyes react and close down a bit, you take the center spot off what you are looking at and you cant see as well, and you focus the center spot on what you want to see again just as your eyes are trying to dilate and see again…and over and over, causing eyestrain.
Thrunite TN31, TN32 or the Thrunite Catapult V5. The first two are 3 18650 batteries side by side and the last has two 18650 batteries stacked. The Fenix TK61 is another candidate in the single LED light multiple battery category. Most multi battery single LED lights are throwers rather than having a flood beam so if you want more of a flood beam light look at a Mountain Electronics (RMM) modified Supfire M6 with the 7 level output modification. Good long run time at the mid range output levels and very bright at maximum. A four 18650 battery stubby light but with three LEDs. No real disadvantage to multiple LEDs unless you want a light with maximum throw but such lights tend to have very large and deep reflectors for their single LED, adding to size and weight.