Ultrafire F13 at $11.39 - with Coupon Code - Gearbest

Did you get a reply from customer service?

I received mine today and it also has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf)

Yes please!

Dang. Predictable, but stupid.

Yes, it took some days but it seems that I will get a refund. I’ve ordered another one in between and was assured that the current model will be shipped. Let’s see what I will get this time…
Today I’ve got 3 XM-L’s from FastTech which I was planning to use for replacements (mounted on 20mm stars because I’m not in the reflowing business yet). Although only two of them should be XM-L2 according to my order, I’ve got all 3 as XM-L2 with silverish top (all T6 bin with 1A/1C/3B tint). Let’s see what I can do with them.

I received mine today also, and it too has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf) Driver is slightly different than what has been posted, a YN-22-T6 different position of some components.

Gearbest customer service are quick in replying , I emailed them yesterday and today they replied offering replacement or refund , I asked for replacement as long as it has XML2, the XML I have is not that bright and has a lot of blue tint in it.

[quote=hank]

Yes please!

I started work on a 22mm FET+1 type driver: [WIP] 22mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM / Zener

This batch is worse quality than the first batch. Very poor, even at the price point.

Sorry, I just can't know for sure what we will get any more and it seems to get worse every time. Even if I ask for a sample first, I don't know if that sample will be representative of the actual lights going out.

Mine came in. Ordered on 1/7/15. Has an XM-L2 in it, says XM-L2 on body. Threads are loose, but I plan on putting Teflon tape on them anyway and they improved with lube.

Mine arrived today. I’d say it’s not bad for the money (as a cheap host)

Pros:
-Nice chunky body and love the plentiful heatsink fins. This could definitely be a nice little hotrod light.
-Reflector & lens nice and clean. Came with a protective plastic sheet over the glass which is nice.
-Decent external condition, some cloudy anodizing on the head and a few dings on the aluminium bezel.
-I like the red tailcap boot. Something a little different

Cons:
-Mushy crappy tailcap switch
-XM-L T6 on body and XML inside. Pretty blue, maybe a 1C. Might be ok once I’ve fixed that crappy centering ring and brought things into better focus.
-Very tight driver retainer. Tweezers where a complete no go here, had to break out the needle nose pliers to break the seal.
-Craptastic driver, seems to do Med, Med, Slightly-lower-Med, Flashy, SOS. So it’s really only fit for the bin.
-Fairly loose tailcap threads as others have said. But the anodized threads are pretty clean and the O-ring is correctly sized so it makes a better impression once you start to tighten it down. Should be ok if you are careful not to cross thread it.

Mine had an okay tint, but I don’t have many lights to compare it against. I’ll fix the centering ring and I’ll figure out if it has a green tint. Comparing it against a nichia 219A tells me that it is a CW LED with a bit of green from the GITD O ring. The surface of the light isn’t aggressive enough for my liking, it make it hard to push the tail cap switch.

Mine also arrived today, also with a gen 1 XM-L. However, I don’t care much about the emitter because the battery tube is going straight to my DST anyways. The giant “XML - T6” on the side is annoying though, is there any way to get that off?

Mmm, lottery… I ordered 2 and got both the old XM-L and an XM-L2. In my case, the XM-L2 is slightly warmer tint, but the older isn’t too awful.

As noted by others, there was absolutely no thermal compound under the emitter. Since I had it apart, I killed the ‘next mode memory’ by stacking a resistor on the capacitor, so less chance of blinky mode. The centering ring seemed to come up high around the emitter, so I swapped it for these: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001923/1182004-insulation-gaskets-for-cree-xm-l-t6-led-emitters-1 and it seemed to take the hard edge off the hotspot. Another o-ring (~37mm) between the reflector and the glass tightened things up again.

> is there any way to get that off?

I’m now seeing home-use laser engraving machines showing up for sale, if you want to overwrite it (wry grin).
Pretty pricey as of yet.

Look closely with a magnifying glass at the surface and you’ll see it’s cut in; you could probably fill it with paint …

Do these all have next mode memory?

I swapped wires to 22AWG ,braided springs , added thermal paste to star and moved LED output to alternate output, and after that it starts on high every time. I never tested while stock just wondering why mine now hasn’t got next mode memory?

Glad it hasn’t though

I suppose what usually happens is that, as production goes on, the factory speeds up the line and reduces staff to cut costs. The XM-Ls instead of XM-L2s sounds like the store or factory sorted out the best ones to sell first.

Maybe this is a good time to learn how to wrap with paracord

Or strip the anodizing?

Mine has no memory. It always starts on high.

I thought mine had memory, but now I’m having doubts. I’d take one apart and reverse it, but for my extreme laziness.

I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:

  1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
  2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?