That’s strange.. Got mine today too. But on the outside it says “XML-T6” – and that’s what’s inside – so it seems. It is only an older XML with green top, 3 bond wires and 6 stripes. On a grey star with no other text than +/- signs on it. Let’s see what the customer service has to say about that…
Did you get a reply from customer service?
I received mine today and it also has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf)
Yes, it took some days but it seems that I will get a refund. I’ve ordered another one in between and was assured that the current model will be shipped. Let’s see what I will get this time…
Today I’ve got 3 XM-L’s from FastTech which I was planning to use for replacements (mounted on 20mm stars because I’m not in the reflowing business yet). Although only two of them should be XM-L2 according to my order, I’ve got all 3 as XM-L2 with silverish top (all T6 bin with 1A/1C/3B tint). Let’s see what I can do with them.
I received mine today also, and it too has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf) Driver is slightly different than what has been posted, a YN-22-T6 different position of some components.
Yes, it took some days but it seems that I will get a refund. I’ve ordered another one in between and was assured that the current model will be shipped. Let’s see what I will get this time…
Gearbest customer service are quick in replying , I emailed them yesterday and today they replied offering replacement or refund , I asked for replacement as long as it has XML2, the XML I have is not that bright and has a lot of blue tint in it.
This batch is worse quality than the first batch. Very poor, even at the price point.
Sorry, I just can't know for sure what we will get any more and it seems to get worse every time. Even if I ask for a sample first, I don't know if that sample will be representative of the actual lights going out.
—
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
Mine came in. Ordered on 1/7/15. Has an XM-L2 in it, says XM-L2 on body. Threads are loose, but I plan on putting Teflon tape on them anyway and they improved with lube.
—
I do horrible things to electronics in an effort to get them to do what I want.
Mine arrived today. I’d say it’s not bad for the money (as a cheap host)
Pros:
-Nice chunky body and love the plentiful heatsink fins. This could definitely be a nice little hotrod light.
-Reflector & lens nice and clean. Came with a protective plastic sheet over the glass which is nice.
-Decent external condition, some cloudy anodizing on the head and a few dings on the aluminium bezel.
-I like the red tailcap boot. Something a little different
Cons:
-Mushy crappy tailcap switch
-XM-L T6 on body and XML inside. Pretty blue, maybe a 1C. Might be ok once I’ve fixed that crappy centering ring and brought things into better focus.
-Very tight driver retainer. Tweezers where a complete no go here, had to break out the needle nose pliers to break the seal.
-Craptastic driver, seems to do Med, Med, Slightly-lower-Med, Flashy, SOS. So it’s really only fit for the bin.
-Fairly loose tailcap threads as others have said. But the anodized threads are pretty clean and the O-ring is correctly sized so it makes a better impression once you start to tighten it down. Should be ok if you are careful not to cross thread it.
Mine had an okay tint, but I don’t have many lights to compare it against. I’ll fix the centering ring and I’ll figure out if it has a green tint. Comparing it against a nichia 219A tells me that it is a CW LED with a bit of green from the GITD O ring. The surface of the light isn’t aggressive enough for my liking, it make it hard to push the tail cap switch.
—
I do horrible things to electronics in an effort to get them to do what I want.
Mine also arrived today, also with a gen 1 XM-L. However, I don’t care much about the emitter because the battery tube is going straight to my DST anyways. The giant “XML – T6” on the side is annoying though, is there any way to get that off?
Mmm, lottery… I ordered 2 and got both the old XM-L and an XM-L2. In my case, the XM-L2 is slightly warmer tint, but the older isn’t too awful.
As noted by others, there was absolutely no thermal compound under the emitter. Since I had it apart, I killed the ‘next mode memory’ by stacking a resistor on the capacitor, so less chance of blinky mode. The centering ring seemed to come up high around the emitter, so I swapped it for these: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001923/1182004-insulation-gaskets-... and it seemed to take the hard edge off the hotspot. Another o-ring (~37mm) between the reflector and the glass tightened things up again.
Since I had it apart, I killed the ‘next mode memory’ by stacking a resistor on the capacitor, so less chance of blinky mode.
Do these all have next mode memory?
I swapped wires to 22AWG ,braided springs , added thermal paste to star and moved LED output to alternate output, and after that it starts on high every time. I never tested while stock just wondering why mine now hasn’t got next mode memory?
I suppose what usually happens is that, as production goes on, the factory speeds up the line and reduces staff to cut costs. The XM-Ls instead of XM-L2s sounds like the store or factory sorted out the best ones to sell first.
—
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:
1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?
I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:
1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?
1. Yes, but I’m not sure what size you’ll need for this particular light (maybe someone else can chime in)
2. Mine came with a nice 18650 sleeve, but lots of people use thin pvc, or cardboard, or any number of things.
I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:
1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?
I think that should read “3 AAA batteries”. Too bad, it would make a nice gift.
—
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
Curious on the shipping time to the U.S. for those that have ordered. Mine shipped out on the 13th of this month so it hasn’t been quite two weeks yet. What are folks seeing for their orders?
Need you to teach me something here please. I’ve ordered two the the F13’s from GB you referenced in another thread and used the CC. Haven’t received them yet but I’m looking forward to getting them. I see the mods you’ve done to the F13’s here in this thread but confess that I don’t (yet) have the experience to know in what way these mods improve the F13. But I’d like to know what these improvements do since I see you offer many lights that have been modified. And I’m glad to see that the F13 also takes the 3xAAA holder (I wasn’t sure if it was like the TF A8 or not). Thank you sir.
I shouldn’t presume to speak for OL, but here goes:
- resistor removal brings the unit from 5 modes to 4
- positive move means more current (so brighter)
- capacitor mod means that the light starts on high every time, so you don’t end up accidentally blinking
- locating rings on stock are a little high around the emitter, so the hotspot had a hard cutoff (and maybe loss of light)
- noctigons are way better for heat transfer than stock stars
- 22g wires have less resistance (so brighter) than the stock wires
- copper braid on springs = brighter
- grease good
On another note, I know for a fact that OL put thermal grease of some description under the star. If you did absolutely nothing else, this one mod is a must. Otherwise, you run the risk of cooking the emitter and experiencing premature led death.
People (including me) have gotten the old xm-l instead of the newer xm-l2 in these lights. If you have the old one, take it up with GB customer support. My case isn’t totally resolved yet, but signs point to positive.
(from OL sales thread) OL, Need you to teach me something here please. I've ordered two the the F13's from GB you referenced in another thread and used the CC. Haven't received them yet but I'm looking forward to getting them. I see the mods you've done to the F13's here in this thread but confess that I don't (yet) have the experience to know in what way these mods improve the F13. But I'd like to know what these improvements do since I see you offer many lights that have been modified. And I'm glad to see that the F13 also takes the 3xAAA holder (I wasn't sure if it was like the TF A8 or not). Thank you sir. :)
I shouldn't presume to speak for OL, but here goes: - resistor removal brings the unit from 5 modes to 4 - positive move means more current (so brighter) - capacitor mod means that the light starts on high every time, so you don't end up accidentally blinking - locating rings on stock are a little high around the emitter, so the hotspot had a hard cutoff (and maybe loss of light) - noctigons are way better for heat transfer than stock stars - 22g wires have less resistance (so brighter) than the stock wires - copper braid on springs = brighter - grease good On another note, I know for a fact that OL put thermal grease of some description under the star. If you did absolutely nothing else, this one mod is a must. Otherwise, you run the risk of cooking the emitter and experiencing premature led death. People (including me) have gotten the old xm-l instead of the newer xm-l2 in these lights. If you have the old one, take it up with GB customer support. My case isn't totally resolved yet, but signs point to positive.
Presume away, I didn't even see that post. What you said is correct. Thermal paste is needed for all of them, as none of them have any. I use Arctic Alumina, but Fujik or others will work. Any paste for CPUs will work.
—
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
Did you get a reply from customer service?
I received mine today and it also has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf)
Yes please!
Dang. Predictable, but stupid.
Yes, it took some days but it seems that I will get a refund. I’ve ordered another one in between and was assured that the current model will be shipped. Let’s see what I will get this time…
Today I’ve got 3 XM-L’s from FastTech which I was planning to use for replacements (mounted on 20mm stars because I’m not in the reflowing business yet). Although only two of them should be XM-L2 according to my order, I’ve got all 3 as XM-L2 with silverish top (all T6 bin with 1A/1C/3B tint). Let’s see what I can do with them.
I received mine today also, and it too has XML-T6 stamped on the side and thats what is inside (no thermal paste at all just loose on top of shelf) Driver is slightly different than what has been posted, a YN-22-T6 different position of some components.
No one notices when things are going right
Gearbest customer service are quick in replying , I emailed them yesterday and today they replied offering replacement or refund , I asked for replacement as long as it has XML2, the XML I have is not that bright and has a lot of blue tint in it.
Yes please!
I started work on a 22mm FET+1 type driver: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37231
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
This batch is worse quality than the first batch. Very poor, even at the price point.
Sorry, I just can't know for sure what we will get any more and it seems to get worse every time. Even if I ask for a sample first, I don't know if that sample will be representative of the actual lights going out.
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Mine came in. Ordered on 1/7/15. Has an XM-L2 in it, says XM-L2 on body. Threads are loose, but I plan on putting Teflon tape on them anyway and they improved with lube.
I do horrible things to electronics in an effort to get them to do what I want.
Mine arrived today. I’d say it’s not bad for the money (as a cheap host)
Pros:
-Nice chunky body and love the plentiful heatsink fins. This could definitely be a nice little hotrod light.
-Reflector & lens nice and clean. Came with a protective plastic sheet over the glass which is nice.
-Decent external condition, some cloudy anodizing on the head and a few dings on the aluminium bezel.
-I like the red tailcap boot. Something a little different
Cons:
-Mushy crappy tailcap switch
-XM-L T6 on body and XML inside. Pretty blue, maybe a 1C. Might be ok once I’ve fixed that crappy centering ring and brought things into better focus.
-Very tight driver retainer. Tweezers where a complete no go here, had to break out the needle nose pliers to break the seal.
-Craptastic driver, seems to do Med, Med, Slightly-lower-Med, Flashy, SOS. So it’s really only fit for the bin.
-Fairly loose tailcap threads as others have said. But the anodized threads are pretty clean and the O-ring is correctly sized so it makes a better impression once you start to tighten it down. Should be ok if you are careful not to cross thread it.
Complete conversion of BTU shocker: 3x Mt-g2, Handle, Battery Pack. >9000Lumens ~150W
Courui "Even Bigger Head" D01
Mine had an okay tint, but I don’t have many lights to compare it against. I’ll fix the centering ring and I’ll figure out if it has a green tint. Comparing it against a nichia 219A tells me that it is a CW LED with a bit of green from the GITD O ring. The surface of the light isn’t aggressive enough for my liking, it make it hard to push the tail cap switch.
I do horrible things to electronics in an effort to get them to do what I want.
Mine also arrived today, also with a gen 1 XM-L. However, I don’t care much about the emitter because the battery tube is going straight to my DST anyways. The giant “XML – T6” on the side is annoying though, is there any way to get that off?
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Mmm, lottery… I ordered 2 and got both the old XM-L and an XM-L2. In my case, the XM-L2 is slightly warmer tint, but the older isn’t too awful.
As noted by others, there was absolutely no thermal compound under the emitter. Since I had it apart, I killed the ‘next mode memory’ by stacking a resistor on the capacitor, so less chance of blinky mode. The centering ring seemed to come up high around the emitter, so I swapped it for these: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001923/1182004-insulation-gaskets-... and it seemed to take the hard edge off the hotspot. Another o-ring (~37mm) between the reflector and the glass tightened things up again.
> is there any way to get that off?
I’m now seeing home-use laser engraving machines showing up for sale, if you want to overwrite it (wry grin).
Pretty pricey as of yet.
Look closely with a magnifying glass at the surface and you’ll see it’s cut in; you could probably fill it with paint …
Do these all have next mode memory?
I swapped wires to 22AWG ,braided springs , added thermal paste to star and moved LED output to alternate output, and after that it starts on high every time. I never tested while stock just wondering why mine now hasn’t got next mode memory?
Glad it hasn’t though
I suppose what usually happens is that, as production goes on, the factory speeds up the line and reduces staff to cut costs. The XM-Ls instead of XM-L2s sounds like the store or factory sorted out the best ones to sell first.
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
Maybe this is a good time to learn how to wrap with paracord
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Mine has no memory. It always starts on high.
I thought mine had memory, but now I’m having doubts. I’d take one apart and reverse it, but for my extreme laziness.
I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:
1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?
1. Yes, but I’m not sure what size you’ll need for this particular light (maybe someone else can chime in)
2. Mine came with a nice 18650 sleeve, but lots of people use thin pvc, or cardboard, or any number of things.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
I think that should read “3 AAA batteries”. Too bad, it would make a nice gift.
Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔，以及在陶器。
Yes 3 AAA batteries.
Curious on the shipping time to the U.S. for those that have ordered. Mine shipped out on the 13th of this month so it hasn’t been quite two weeks yet. What are folks seeing for their orders?
Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us
I shouldn’t presume to speak for OL, but here goes:
- resistor removal brings the unit from 5 modes to 4
- positive move means more current (so brighter)
- capacitor mod means that the light starts on high every time, so you don’t end up accidentally blinking
- locating rings on stock are a little high around the emitter, so the hotspot had a hard cutoff (and maybe loss of light)
- noctigons are way better for heat transfer than stock stars
- 22g wires have less resistance (so brighter) than the stock wires
- copper braid on springs = brighter
- grease good
On another note, I know for a fact that OL put thermal grease of some description under the star. If you did absolutely nothing else, this one mod is a must. Otherwise, you run the risk of cooking the emitter and experiencing premature led death.
People (including me) have gotten the old xm-l instead of the newer xm-l2 in these lights. If you have the old one, take it up with GB customer support. My case isn’t totally resolved yet, but signs point to positive.
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Thank you again gentlemen
Survival & Emergency Preparedness http://sepboard.us
Wait, what? Is there a choice of which of the five to get rid of? Like, the SOS mode, preferably?
With the resistor taken off, it changes to H/M/Strobe/SOS. Can't get rid of strobe or SOS on this particular driver. At least, not on the four I had.
My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com
My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel
The BLF Modding Links Thread
Thanks everyone for info on this light.
Seems a good deal even for a noob who will likely not do any mods on it? (may be exception of thermal paste).
Thinking about just plug and play cheap and reliable light. And I love the convoy S2. Would this light compare well to the convoy S2?
Noob who want some lights!
Contra Costa County, CA
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