Ultrafire F13 at $11.39 - with Coupon Code - Gearbest

[pilotdog68]

@hank

> is there any way to get that off?

I’m now seeing home-use laser engraving machines showing up for sale, if you want to overwrite it (wry grin).
Pretty pricey as of yet.

Look closely with a magnifying glass at the surface and you’ll see it’s cut in; you could probably fill it with paint …

Maybe this is a good time to learn how to wrap with paracord

[wight]

@pilotdog68

@hank

> is there any way to get that off?

I’m now seeing home-use laser engraving machines showing up for sale, if you want to overwrite it (wry grin).
Pretty pricey as of yet.

Look closely with a magnifying glass at the surface and you’ll see it’s cut in; you could probably fill it with paint …

Maybe this is a good time to learn how to wrap with paracord

Or strip the anodizing?

[Lancman]

@fireblade893

Do these all have next mode memory?

Mine has no memory. It always starts on high.

[ruffles]

@Lancman

@fireblade893

Do these all have next mode memory?

Mine has no memory. It always starts on high.

I thought mine had memory, but now I’m having doubts. I’d take one apart and reverse it, but for my extreme laziness.

[dondulah]

I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:

1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?

[pilotdog68]

@dondulah

I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:

1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?

1. Yes, but I’m not sure what size you’ll need for this particular light (maybe someone else can chime in)
2. Mine came with a nice 18650 sleeve, but lots of people use thin pvc, or cardboard, or any number of things.

[Fritz_t_Cat]

@dondulah

I got mine 2 weeks ago, just got around to it. It has a nice bright beam, nice tint, not too ringy, but a horrible mushy clicky. I am not a “modder”, but am curious about the two below questions:

1. Is there a clicky switch I can simply swap out
2. There is a sleeve for 3 AA batteries, but none for the 18650. The battery rattles a bit with a single 18650. Any fixes to this?

I think that should read “3 AAA batteries”. Too bad, it would make a nice gift.

[dondulah]

Yes 3 AAA batteries.

[Deputydave]

Curious on the shipping time to the U.S. for those that have ordered. Mine shipped out on the 13th of this month so it hasn’t been quite two weeks yet. What are folks seeing for their orders?

[ruffles]

@Deputydave

(from OL sales thread) OL,

Need you to teach me something here please. I’ve ordered two the the F13’s from GB you referenced in another thread and used the CC. Haven’t received them yet but I’m looking forward to getting them. I see the mods you’ve done to the F13’s here in this thread but confess that I don’t (yet) have the experience to know in what way these mods improve the F13. But I’d like to know what these improvements do since I see you offer many lights that have been modified. And I’m glad to see that the F13 also takes the 3xAAA holder (I wasn’t sure if it was like the TF A8 or not). Thank you sir.

I shouldn’t presume to speak for OL, but here goes:

- resistor removal brings the unit from 5 modes to 4

- positive move means more current (so brighter)

- capacitor mod means that the light starts on high every time, so you don’t end up accidentally blinking

- locating rings on stock are a little high around the emitter, so the hotspot had a hard cutoff (and maybe loss of light)

- noctigons are way better for heat transfer than stock stars

- 22g wires have less resistance (so brighter) than the stock wires

- copper braid on springs = brighter

• grease good

On another note, I know for a fact that OL put thermal grease of some description under the star. If you did absolutely nothing else, this one mod is a must. Otherwise, you run the risk of cooking the emitter and experiencing premature led death.

People (including me) have gotten the old xm-l instead of the newer xm-l2 in these lights. If you have the old one, take it up with GB customer support. My case isn’t totally resolved yet, but signs point to positive.

[Old-Lumens]

@ruffles

@Deputydave

(from OL sales thread) OL, Need you to teach me something here please. I’ve ordered two the the F13’s from GB you referenced in another thread and used the CC. Haven’t received them yet but I’m looking forward to getting them. I see the mods you’ve done to the F13’s here in this thread but confess that I don’t (yet) have the experience to know in what way these mods improve the F13. But I’d like to know what these improvements do since I see you offer many lights that have been modified. And I’m glad to see that the F13 also takes the 3xAAA holder (I wasn’t sure if it was like the TF A8 or not). Thank you sir.

I shouldn’t presume to speak for OL, but here goes: - resistor removal brings the unit from 5 modes to 4 - positive move means more current (so brighter) - capacitor mod means that the light starts on high every time, so you don’t end up accidentally blinking - locating rings on stock are a little high around the emitter, so the hotspot had a hard cutoff (and maybe loss of light) - noctigons are way better for heat transfer than stock stars - 22g wires have less resistance (so brighter) than the stock wires - copper braid on springs = brighter - grease good On another note, I know for a fact that OL put thermal grease of some description under the star. If you did absolutely nothing else, this one mod is a must. Otherwise, you run the risk of cooking the emitter and experiencing premature led death. People (including me) have gotten the old xm-l instead of the newer xm-l2 in these lights. If you have the old one, take it up with GB customer support. My case isn’t totally resolved yet, but signs point to positive.

Presume away, I didn’t even see that post. What you said is correct. Thermal paste is needed for all of them, as none of them have any. I use Arctic Alumina, but Fujik or others will work. Any paste for CPUs will work.

[Deputydave]

Thank you again gentlemen

[hank]

> resistor removal brings the unit from 5 modes to 4

Wait, what? Is there a choice of which of the five to get rid of? Like, the SOS mode, preferably?

[Old-Lumens]

With the resistor taken off, it changes to H/M/Strobe/SOS. Can't get rid of strobe or SOS on this particular driver. At least, not on the four I had.

[newuser01]

Thanks everyone for info on this light.

Seems a good deal even for a noob who will likely not do any mods on it? (may be exception of thermal paste).

Thinking about just plug and play cheap and reliable light. And I love the convoy S2. Would this light compare well to the convoy S2?

[wight]

@newuser01

Thanks everyone for info on this light.

Seems a good deal even for a noob who will likely not do any mods on it? (may be exception of thermal paste).

Thinking about just plug and play cheap and reliable light. And I love the convoy S2. Would this light compare well to the convoy S2?

Not really. The S2 is better machined, better assembled, and has a much better driver.

I would not call this either “plug and play” or “reliable”. It’s a nice inexpensive mod host and playground in this form factor.

[Fritz_t_Cat]

Mine has been working reliably. I only added heat sink compound today. The fit and finish of mine is very good. It uses resistors instead of current regulator chips to control the current, but that is not a serious problem unless you want very high output. I expect to retire it soon, only because it is not a zoomy. I don’t have a Convoy to compare it to, or intend to get one.

[newuser01]

@wight

I would not call this either “plug and play” or “reliable”. It’s a nice inexpensive mod host and playground in this form factor.

Thank you for quick reply. I will look else where such as “roche-f6”.
Cheers

[WarHawk-AVG]

@newuser01

Thanks everyone for info on this light.

Seems a good deal even for a noob who will likely not do any mods on it? (may be exception of thermal paste).

Thinking about just plug and play cheap and reliable light. And I love the convoy S2. Would this light compare well to the convoy S2?

Not the same type of platform, the F13 is more like the C8, the S2 is a slimmer EDC style more floody than throwy type light (shorter thinner reflector unlike the C8 or F13 wide long reflector)

Have you tried the spring bypass yet for more current? (aka soldering braid wick or a 22ga or thicker wire from the top of the spring to the bottom of the spring for better current flow)

[processengr]

I received a prompt response and promise of a replacement XML2 F13 for the XML-T6 I received.