17mm & 20/26/27mm single-sided DD/FET driver release: A17DD-SO8 / A20DD-SO8 / etc

I can’t help it! Sure impresses the folks at Jiffy-lube though…

:wink:

You guys are pretty funny! I hope that nobody takes this stuff too seriously, because I know I don't.

I also agree that wight's design is much more attractive. He has a better eye for layout and symmetry than I do, and I think it's obvious that he has a lot more patience than I do! 43+ revisions? I don't think I have 43 revisions with all of my boards combined. Wight takes the time to think about the aesthetic appeal--he's like the Jonathan Ive of flashlight driver design.

I'm the kind of guy that once I get something that works well, will probably stick with it until something clearly better comes along. I guess you could say that I value function over form. Not to say that form doesn't matter to me, because it does, but when there is limited time and resources I am willing to sacrifice form. Wight doesn't sacrifice; uncompromising aesthetic design is his vice.

I don’t mind the usual drivers, don’t pay any attention really, but I DO notice these nice aesthetic designs! Changing cells you see the patterns, the arrangement, and then it’s appreciable, obvious the time was taken to lay it out pretty.

I especially like the PZL driver, looks really neat in the light. :wink:

Edit: Looking for components with 24K gold overlay on the connections. I mean, if the board is so pretty so should be the components, right? :slight_smile:

Edit II: The devil is in the details, when something is done all the way as best as it can be…it shows. Look how much better it would be if they applied that way of thinking to this fabulous emitter…

I have to wonder just what they were thinking with that charcoal grey mess under the die?

I’m just getting ready to order parts. 20 Boards are already on order.
(need to build some XHP70s 2x18350 - After seeing Dales Pics the need is great )

I assume any 1% decent resistors will do.

I’m not sure what specs the D1 diode(low Vf) should be and a proper Zener?

C1 at 4.7 or higher value for the zener mod?
And maybe some additional R1s at 19k?

I’m also looking into getting a Programming adapter - currenty I’m still not able to find a decent clamp for icp.

Thanks and greets

It is the
Pomona 8 pin soic test clip. part number 5250. IC test clip
you want for the programming adapter.

Thanks!

Where one can found tips on how-to program and firmware for that driver?

You can start with this Guide: how to flash ATtiny13a based drivers (NANJG, QLITE, etc.) with custom firmware.

You can use Star firmware or nlite, there are also some firmwares tweaked by ToyKeeper and DBCstm you can pm them to get the .c files.
Just a word of advice, there is a lot to take in, do it one step at a time otherwise you’ll be “f*ck this s*t$^” in no time.

I just found this PSMN0R7-25YLD at nxp, it looks to me like it could possible be the next step up from the PSMN0R9-30YLD

It isn’t released yet & is noted as “in development” at nxp but those specs they have released so far of it, looks to me that it could be slightly better than the PSMN0R9-30YLD by the overall slightly lowered resistance on many parameters.

Yeah, i read about that matter like 3-4 hours already.

One thing: is the main software needed fully operational with 64bit only OS? - i use win7 and win 8 OS 64bit….

hehe, i aint much of a “gave up easy” person, but EU is very short of that kind of drivers, otherwise i wont bother at all

EU needs drivers. Got it :stuck_out_tongue: and good luck to you.

Hard to say since there is no graph corresponding to fig 8 showing Rds-on as a function of gate voltage. It’s not just how low the resistance is but how much voltage needs to be applied to the gate to get that low number. My guess is it’s pretty good but that would be just a guess based on what the graphs usually look like. Things like thick wires, spring, and switch mods will likely have greater impact at this point. Also paying particular attention to electro mechanical connections like threads and rings is important.

I’m using windows 10 Tech Preview, 64bit, and everything worked thus far. The only Issue i had was with installing the Usbasp drivers, for that you would have to disable the driver signature enforcement , Pretty sure you’ll have to do that with windows 8 PC as well.

Disable driver signature enforcement Win 8/8.1/10
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/insider/forum/insider_wintp-insider_devices/how-do-i-disable-driver-signature-enforcement-win/a53ec7ca-bdd3-4f39-a3af-3bd92336d248

Yeah i agree i would think if there is any more improvement to be had from better MOSFET’s it is in under a 1% more output from a single battery single led application and more can be gained by those resistance lowering tune ups you mentioned, but it is still possible some more to be had when they release it and that is always nice :slight_smile:

I know i will keep my eyes open for it when i buy some more stuff from the regular suppliers like farnell in the future.

I’m not the guy to say “don’t try it”, by all means give it a go. Just don’t expect much difference if that’s the only change made.

I need some help regarding the component BOM.

I’m seeing a 221 resistor in the photo in the first post on the spot with the triangle silkscreen. Is that correct or should it be a normal diode?

The other thing is the SOD-323 is for the zener position and only used if I want a zener build right?

Its the opposite , You need to replace the SOD-323 diode with 221 resistor when using zener.

Thanks sinner, that makes sense to have the resistor in series with the zener diode. Also, I realised that I missed out the portion on D1/R3 in the first post which explains the same thing.

I’m not sure about tips on programming in general, but I’ve collected and published several firmwares in one place for convenience (including source when possible). The link is in my signature.

I’ve been trying to collect as many as I can there, but I’m pretty sure I’ve missed some, and a few are still on my todo list.