BLF17DD Info Thread - Reference

Is this Quote from itead or another Chinese ? Or from a US assembler?
Didn’t thought that this would be so high Especially for such a small one Sided PCB


+1, is this from itead?

The only reason I ask because the quote I got for 100 PC was $11 each and the driver was much larger and required far more components.

This quote was for the 33.6mm, 6000ma 7135 based driver I use (super sized nang)

Here's our quotation :
Quantity 50
components $320
Assembly $250
PCB $80
Stencil $62
total $712
1.PCBs are 2oz, 1.6mm, color green, HASL finish.
2.Shipping cost is not included in the price.


This is my only grounds for thinking that the cost for this driver would be lower.

No. It is from 4 other driver manufacturer's in China. The misinformation is that most think that everything is cheaper in China. The only thing cheaper there is labor. When dealing with things like drivers, we are so far down to the component level the only possible savings is in pennies and not dollars.

There is another thread on BLF where the same was attempted. One of the hurdles is and will be the money. No manufacturer starts with less than 50% down and the remainder is upon completion prior to shipping.

That is why I keep trying to tell everybody that a custom hand built individually flashed driver for 12.99 is a deal.

I’ve only got a couple of the Ver 1.0 that I can find but they don’t have that trace across the positive like that. Looks likely that there was a run (or some affected boards) that had a trace that fell on top and got under the mask and nobody caught it. Freaky.

I’ll have to look at the boards closer from now on cause I would never have found that!

I have 2 boards that were like this. On one of them the trace was exposed, obviously a flaw, but the other looked like it belonged there.

I found it by debugging. It didn’t work. (With the thin wires on my battery box, I didn’t notice anything heating up.) Connecting straight to the star didn’t light up either, until I disconnected the star from the driver. My meter showed zero ohms between positive and negative. I couldn’t find any solder connecting positive and negative, so I looked and found the narrow trace. The other boards didn’t have the trace. Scraping it away fixed it. I don’t remember all the other things I tried.

I was soldering this driver and lost the 100 ohm resistor that goes in position R3.
I found one from another driver that is marked as “R100”. Is the same value?
Also have two spare “2000”, can I put one on top of the other or I’m wrong with the mathematics.
Thank you very much.

I think “R” denotes the decimal point so R100 is .1 ohm. You need 100R. In reality though, that resistor was placed as a quick fix for a voltage spike issue that was corrected by moving C1 I think.

Answering your other question: yes, two 200 ohm resistors in parallel gives you the equivalent resistance as a single 100 ohm.

Thanks you both for your quick answer!!

Anyone has tried the 70N03 FET on BLF17DD?
Also is the FET on the ld-25 driver 70N03? Planning to get that FET from ld25 and transfer it to blf17dd but i want to make sure it’s really 70N03 and will work on blf17dd.

The Vishay 70N03 is what we used when it was available. The current trend is to a different package in part due to availability.

Oops! My memory strikes again. We used the 70N02.

Edit again, the 02 is a better choice but the 03 will still work well. At the voltage we use you probably couldn’t tell a difference from what I can tell by the respective datasheets. You might hold out for a more edumicated opinion though.

I bought a couple of blf17dd drivers from mtn.electronics last year. I want to use one now with a side switch but from what I’m reading I need the right firmware. How can I check if I have the right firmware for that without busting it?

Can you go into your order history to see what firmware is on them?

You won’t fry anything if you hook it up & bench test by grounding pin 2 to see if it changes modes.

I tried looking through my emails but I think I deleted it. So if it won’t fry anything I’ll try what you suggested, thanks.

Some firmwares were set to use pin 3 instead of pin 2 - so try both whilst you are at it.

Probably easier to just add/remove/add power to the driver on the test bench; if it changes mode, it’s not an e-switch f/ware.

I just tried powering on and off and it seems I have firmware for a clicky. Is there anyway to change this?

Only by re-flashing with the appropriate f/ware.

I’m set up to do it, but I think it would cost you more in postage to send it to me than it would cost to get another one from RMM, or even to get the gear to program it yourself.

see;

or

Oookay, new driver it is. Thanks FmC

Would this work?