With roughly the same output?
If thats the case and the XinTD is good enough quality it seems like a no brainer to get the XinTD for the price difference and throw.
Can anyone confirm the quality of the XinTD and if you have this light and either a TN12 or P35 compare the light they put out to the XinTD please.
Im especially interested in the XM-L2 U2 3C warm tint version if you can comment on the tint and beam.
Yes roughly the same ouput. The 3C tint is a nice neutral tint. Some people prefer the 3D tint, but they are much harder to find and not that different.
I have the latest Convoy and an older XinTD V3 and I like the Convoy slightly more. It’s smaller, lighter, has an extra fin, anodized threads, screws hold the LED and you can quickly disable/enable blinky modes. Both have AR lens.
My XinTD has a brass pill w/screw in reflector, a proven driver w/multiple mode selections and a more robust feeling switch and body. I think the newest version has a soldered in star. IMO, the overall quality is a little better.
Is this the LED youre talking about…XM-L2 T5 5D3
I have no clue what these part numbers indicate about the LED
The second set of numbers is the tint bin. What most people think of as LED light is bluish like a 1A, pure white is close to 3D, and old incandescent flashlights are probably in the 5A range. “cool” = blueish, “warm” = orangish. Use this for reference.
The first set is the output bin. Later in the series equals brighter. T5 < T6 < U2. Typically the warmer tints are only found in the lower output bins like T4 or T5. The difference between a T5 and a U2 is a couple hundred lumens at 3amps.
Thank you, that helps to visualize and put things in perspective.
Its a hard choice on the light.
There is a review on the Convoy host that lays out some cons. I dont know how important these things are being new to this.
I was thinking the XinTD would have better heat sinking because of the screw in reflector but I dont know how important that is. The Convoy matte black looks really nice.
Both the ready to go Convoy and the XinTD in the neutral tint are out of stock currently 
I added a couple comments to the tint post for reference.
At 3amps, I think either one will have adequate heat sinking.
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Thank you pilotdog68, that really helps.
Having explained that I would guess Im looking for a tint somewhere between 3A and 4A?
This light will be used walking and spotting in the woods and needs to have more natural color rendering.
You know, it never crossed my mind to open a seperate dedicated account for the sole purpose of making online transactions. Thank you for that suggestion chops728. I usually use my debit card linked to my main account and always watch my bank statement like a hawk.
A warmer tint will look better outdoors than indoors. It really brings out the greens and browns. 3C is a good all-around tint, but I think you would be happy with anything in the 3 or 4 ranges.
I have both a Fenix PD35 and an XinTD V4 (The old, slightly inferior model) and the XinTD is brighter and throws SIGNIFICANTLY farther. They are not even remotely in the same throw class. The XinTD wins in both departments, and if you are not going to pocket carry, the XinTD is a no brainer win for me.
If you like the looks of the C8, you might like the JAX mini C8. The quality is up there with Convoy.
Out is more lagely dictated by the Led type and how hard it’s driven. Of course OTF (out the front) lumens will then be dictated by the reflector/optics. But I really wouldn’t worry too much about it.
In terms of beam, it depends what you want.
Throw comes from larger reflectors and a large reflector in combination to a small Led.
So the same led in a large reflector will have a tighter more intense hot spot and duller spill beam.
Reflector depth will also have a bearing as will it’s texture.
Afraid I don’t have a C8 with an XM-L2 in, but here are some comparison shots of an XM-L2 tube light (so similar to the TN12/PD35), an Eagle Eye X6 with an XM-L2, not as big as a C8, but bigger than a tube light. And an XP-G2 C8.
Brass pill? Really? According to Engineering Toolbox, brass has a lower thermal conductivity than Aluminum, which, in turn, has about half the thermal conductivity of copper. I would not consider a brass pill to be a positive feature for a flashlight, except maybe compared to steel or plastic. I haven’t ever seen or held a XinTD C8, but I consider the Convoy C8 to be of decent quality for the price. And, it is simple to change mode groups to enable/disable blinky modes.
The XinTD from MTN comes with a 3.04A driver(380*8 7135 resistors) I would highly recommend buying the xpg2 version with whatever your preferred mode groups are, And if you wish to mod it order 4 380mA 7135's to stack on the existing ones. I did it last night and output jumped a full amp! I don't know where the >10$ drivers are hiding but you will end up with more money and hassle invested than it's worth if you try to piece it together yourself. Braid the springs and enjoy it!
also, I think you heard wrong. I've been a PayPal user since I was 16 (almost 30 now) and I've never had a problem. The only thing they freeze is your PayPal account IF THERE is a dispute between you and a buyer. I've bought and sold several thousand dollars worth of goods through PayPal, and never had a Major issue. The few problems have all been resolved satisfactorily on both sides. I don't know how anybody can live without it. Link to your bank account and get the PayPal debit card so you can spend money you make automatically without the fees and hassles of the prepaid debit card world. It will draw straight from your bank account, and will also prove useful for doing business with Chinese sellers that don't accept PayPal because it is essentially a debit card!
If you don’t plan to mod your light later the latest XinTD C8 V5 is the way to go. But it has Noctigon reflowed onto the pill directly so it would be a PITA to swap the emitter later.
The new version of Convoy C8 is a better choice for modding. I have one of these and I really love the new version. It has better retaining ring to hold the driver and there are screws to hold down the MCPCB as well. It also has anodized squared threads.
EDIT: Corrected my own spelling… I was on my phone when I typed this, ouch!
It’s not just about conductivity within a material. Getting the heat from the star to the sink is the first hurdle and that’s where the specific heat numbers come in. Brass is about the same as copper in that respect and aluminum doesn’t even come close. The heat transfer rate to brass is higher than to aluminum so aluminum needs much more surface area at the bond line to match the transfer ability of brass and brass needs more mass to match the ability of aluminum to transfer heat within itself. A thin aluminum pill is worse than a thick brass one.
Thanks for the help everyone, it helped me make a decision.
I just put in my order for:
Solarforce L2P
2 X Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh
XinTD C8 V5 XM-L2 U3 1A
CREE XM-L2 T6 4C LED on Noctigon 16mm MCPCB
P60 LED/Reflector: XM-L2 U2 3C - OP
28mm AR Coated Glass Lens
Later I want to try the Eagletac Sportac P60 Dropin Triple XP-G2 for flood.
I hope I made a wise decision (in general and) getting these lights instead of a PD35 or TN12.
Where did you order from?
Personally i think you absolutely did.