It’s not just about conductivity within a material. Getting the heat from the star to the sink is the first hurdle and that’s where the specific heat numbers come in. Brass is about the same as copper in that respect and aluminum doesn’t even come close. The heat transfer rate to brass is higher than to aluminum so aluminum needs much more surface area at the bond line to match the transfer ability of brass and brass needs more mass to match the ability of aluminum to transfer heat within itself. A thin aluminum pill is worse than a thick brass one.
Thanks for the help everyone, it helped me make a decision.
I just put in my order for:
Solarforce L2P
2 X Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh
XinTD C8 V5 XM-L2 U3 1A
CREE XM-L2 T6 4C LED on Noctigon 16mm MCPCB
P60 LED/Reflector: XM-L2 U2 3C - OP
28mm AR Coated Glass Lens
Later I want to try the Eagletac Sportac P60 Dropin Triple XP-G2 for flood.
I hope I made a wise decision (in general and) getting these lights instead of a PD35 or TN12.
Where did you order from?
Personally i think you absolutely did.
Everything from http://www.mtnelectronics.com except the L2P which I got from http://www.lighthound.com/
just be aware of what bibihang said in post #26
Chicken Drumstick, do you know what kind of car that is in your bottom pic on the street with the two racing stripes?
Looks cool and I’ve never seen one.
What does than mean exactly?
I assume the entire board is soldered to the pill and if I change it I will have to desolder and resolder the replacement board?
Is it really that difficult to not attempt it at all?
Correct. It’s not all that difficult as long as you have a good enough soldering iron. Its a copper board soldered to a decent chunk of brass, so it tends to suck the heat away before it can get hot enough to melt the solder. And you want to do it pretty quickly so you don’t get the emitter too hot for too long.
Hmmm, I have a Weller Wes51 but from the sound of it that may not be enough…
I forgot about that ring. And the tail cap holes make tail standing with a lanyard more stable than the XinTD’s single hole. There’s a lot to like about the Convoy. 
Is this how to replace the MCPCB?
Yeah that’s one way to do it
Yeah man, like the others have said it takes a lot of heat to melt the solder and remove the Noctigon because you are dealing with a big mass there, and you need to overcome the high heat capacity that comes with it… Probably a good soldering station alone is not enough, but you actually need a butane torch to heat the whole pill in this case.
And there is still another thing. Since the reflector of the XinTD C8 V5 is screwing into the pill you may also have a hard time centering the emitter while heating and reflowing everything back together. I still remember there was once Hank sold a couple of the ‘Grade B’ XinTD C8 V5 for cheap due to the off-centered emitter. Guess they have figured out how to solve this issue already though.
That said, an easier solution would be using conventional thermal compound to attach the Noctigon onto the pill, instead of reflowing the Noctigon again.
I should be able to handle that. It might take some time and be more involved than the simple assembly the Convoy offers but IMO for one swap worth the hassle for the extra thermal transfer the XinTD offers.
PS: Richard from mtnelectronics told me I ordered the wrong MCPCB size. He is shipping the 20mm that is the correct size (for the Convoy C8 as well)
Im sure everyone knows but Richard has been great with answering questions and offering advice and fixing my order. Im glad I ordered through him and will do business with him in the future.
Also thank you to everyone who offered your input.
Ill report back with failure or success and impressions after I receive the goodies 
Hello Yeeeeeehaw .The car you asked about is a Smart Roadster, I was intrigued by it as well. Enjoy your XinTD C8, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed
That’s my daily driver. It’s a smart Roadster.
Cool car
smart Roadster its my favorite car)
Maybe not, but they absolutely will take money from your Debit Card account — even if it’s an overdraft — even though you have enough to cover the price already in your PayPal account.
Ask me how long — and how good a relationship you’ll need to have with your bank — it will take to correct this absurd PayPal-ism.
Still, for all it’s warts and weirdness, PayPal is still the best way to keep suppliers from knowing your account number. I’m just not comfortable any more having PayPal knowing my account numbers!!
Full disclosure, I still use them; since I set the whole thing up with a “throwaway account” with a Debit Card attached, into which I only put the money I need to cover purchases. If it gets burgled I don’t lose much.
Sorry for the OT rant, but it needed to be said.
The bank account of the free DVD software ImgBurn (DVDDecrypter) developer was frozen by PayPal. Haven’t been to his site for years, but he posted his experience on his Web site.