IMR 32650 on route to me to test in 2D Maglites...perform great after charge/discharge cycles

So, I have several 2D Maglites with MTG2’s all in direct drive and some 1D Maglites with XML2. I got these IMREN IMR 32650’s to have better performance from my builds. Got them in and max tailcap current I get is 3.5A but back to back with Keepower IMR 26650’s those produce 5.14A at tailcap….significantly out performing the IMR 32650’s by IMREN.

EDIT….now these cells are doing great and jumped current significantly. 3.5A but now same set up is 5.6~5.8A at tail.

http://www.imrbatteries.com/32650-batteries/

The better the cell the higher tailcap currents I get. I will have to compare it against my Keepower IMR 26650 and Protected Keepower 26650.

I been using a PVC spacer and last night the IMR 26650 plastic sleeve peeled off and totally annoying as heck to use a spacer. Than we have the Protected Keepower 26650’s which will not turn on at all with some of my MTG2 Mag builds due to 5A plus at tailcap. Mad and upset I took a gamble and hope these IMREN IMR 32650’s truly do perform.

Best,
bigC

I’m still messing about with my 2D MT-G2 build. Needs more heatsinking as it get very hot.

I’m running 2x KingKong 26650 INR’s and they where pulling approx 5.5+amps tailcap.

I don’t use a spacer in the 2D however and the cells don’t rattle. I modded the tailcap spring like this:


It holds the cells snug.

I put my springs into the recessed portion of tailcap, but the springs sticks out exactly as much as yours.

Wow, cant believe you don’t use a spacer since the 26650 is much thinner than the regular D cell. Now I have to try it.

so far these are the best I’ve read about, feilong:

Feilong Li-Ion 32650 cells TESTED! | Candle Power Flashlight Forum!

Trustfires are also OK.

will be interesting to see your results.

I was really after IMR’s at the moment because most of my 2D Mags pull 5A~6A and protected cells just wont turn on and non IMR cells typically give less performance at high current.

My pesky Keepower 26650 Protected cells have been fixed

With my DD MTG2 Mag builds they wont even turn on. So, I got the Protection Circuit off yesterday and holly crap…they provide the same tailcap current as my IMR 26650’s. Exact same 5.14A at tailcap like my IMR 26650’s. So, im happy with my 43WATT Powered 2D Mag Single MTG2 build. Plus, the 104K lux it gives is just insane too.

bigC

IMREN IMR 32650’s are in. I topped them off and fresh off the charger they produce only 3.5A at tailcap in a 2D MTG2 DD.

Way less current than what the Keepower IMR 26650’s provide.

bigC

Slightly confused here. 5.5A at the tailcap for a 2x 26650 DD maglite mod? That seems a little low to me (unless spring and switch resistance mods makes such a big difference? I get 9+A at turn on using a BLFDD and two red Efest , 3500mAh 26650 cells )…

WRT tailcap mod, I removed the anodizing from the inside, bottom of the tailcap and am using a Mag C spring. Also added three lengths of copper braid (kind of flattening the solder at the bottom of the spring to increase contact between spring and tailcap,) and soldered a small copper disc at the top of the spring to add some length. (the C spring is a little short)

Yup….in DD MTG2 with 8.4V input it sees just 3.5A with 32650’s and 5.14A with 26650’s. I

You put 8.4V input with Efest 26650’s and get 9A tailcap current on MTG2?

bigC

Yes and apparently RMM didn’t think these were store worthy cells (lol)) so sold two pairs for $15 a pair. The potential is there for better performance. :smiley:
Sorry. I just remembered that my light is the electrical switch version so the Mag switch acts as a momentary switch with minimal current flowing through it. I have 16 guage wire from battery +ve to driver +ve, and from the grub screw to driver -ve and 20 guage wire from driver to LED.

I’ve been looking for unprotected 32650 cells to use in the Lumintop BLF SD10. The springs put undue pressure on the batteries (using longer protected 26650 and 18650) when tightening the tail cap. Didn’t want to shorten the tailcap spring since I’m also using it with the 2S2P carrier for AA’s.

These IMREN seem to fit well allowing me to tighten the tailcap fully. I won’t get a higher current draw in the SD10. Just wanted to thank you for pointing them out.

They seem to fit in my Xtar XP4 charger as well without any adapter/spacer in use.
Charged two cells up last night at 1A rate.

Thanks, Bigchelis!

eebowler, did you do a write up of your build? If you did would put a link to it here? I have been thinking of doing a 2D mag build with copper plates or disks connected by 16g wire to bypass the springs. How hard was it to solder to that spring? Also how do you know when you buy your mag if it has the electronic or momentary switch?

Thanks Bigchelis for this thread. Getting some great ideas.

You got the bad 32650 cells. Feilong are the ones you want

JayRob of LPF sells them (if he has any in stock) or you can order them direct from china.

So you are pushing 18+ amps at the LED then? Sounds kind of extreme to me. The amount of heat I was getting at 5-5.5amps tail (10-11amps total for 2 batteries), was more than plenty.

Chicken, current doesn’t add up in series, voltage does. A 9A current draw for 1, 2, 6 cells in series is 9A. Voltage increases with number of cells and proportionally, wattage. 9A x 4.0V = 36W, 9A x 8V = 72W. OL has made a few 9A, 7135 based, MTG mags and max current i’ve seen here is 11ish amps.

Scotty, no, I didn’t do a write up. Only recently got a computer so that’ll have to change :).
For the heatsink, I used a solid one from H22A (CPF) and a thermal epoxied a 20mm MTG, noctigon to the flat ‘bottom’. I had to cut into the star to make room for the wires to pass through since the holes from the heatsink are only 14mm apart.

You’ll have to take apart the switch and disconnect the bottom ‘leaf spring’ from +ve input and connect it to the tab the grub screw goes into (small wire) . This is now the ground for the electronic switch. The other wire connects to leg 3 (or leg two, can’t remember) of the Atiny chip and is soldered to the top end of the switch. Effectively, pressing the mag switch (not clicking) momentarily connects pin three to ground aka electronic switch.

You’ll also need to cut groves on the inside of the switch to run the 16 gauge wire from+ve input, through the switch to the driver . I use a blob of solder to accommodate flat topped cells. Groves cut on the outside of the switch will allow you to connect 16 gauge wire from the -ve tab to driver -ve input.(The negative tab will have two wires soldered to it)

The holes in the heatsink can only accommodate 20 gauge wire so use that to connect driver output to the LED.

So, upset my IMR 32650’s were giving 3.5A at tailcap vs. IMR 26650’s 5A at tailcap in Single MTG2 build.

I discharged the 32650’s to 3.5V than charged and repeated 3x this process.

Now, I am happy to report these IMREN IMR 32650’s are giving me more tailcap current than even my Keepower IMR 26650’s. To make sure it was not a fluke I got an even hotter MTG2 build.

Figured I test it with my 2D Mag MTG2 twin (2 MTG2’s in parallel) direct drive with FET DD Driver.
IMR 26650’s all generate 5.6A to 6A at tailcap
IMR 32650’s all generate 7A~7.4A at tailcap

Now, keep in mind these are the very same cells I had to put through discharge cycles to wake up…and likely this is something most of you do anyways but I just discovered so its new to me :slight_smile:

bigC

now when I first was testing these cells it was a single MTG2 DD 2D Mag. Got max tailcap current at 3.5A but back to back with Keepower IMR 26650’s those produce 5.14A at tailcap

These exact cells are doing great and jumped current significantly. Initially 3.5A but now same set up/same cells are 5.6~5.8A at tail….

In all my 2D Mags my Voltage Input is 8.4V.

^ Great news.

:party:

Thanks eebowler.

Eebowler, was it this version,

Bigchelis, thanks for the idea. Now I’m looking up this discharge cycling to restore or wake up the batteries. Sounds a little like the joys of NIMH or NiCad.