D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

Do you think the 1288 is a better fit?

The one I’m testing on is a forward clicky from a SF L2

I do have another 17mm one that the switch almost completely covers, probably similar to how the 1217 would look

Well, looks like some hang over is ok for that flashlight at least. So what diameter would you like for the center spring pad?

Well I want this to drop in and work in as many different lights as possible, so If you and others think a smaller switch would be better I will follow your wisdom. I just thought the 1217 is the go-to switch. That particular large switch came from an ebay light, and I will admit it was a royal pain to resolder under itself.

It could be easier to solder. New omten 1217 switches comes with one long tab. I placed a slot in the middle for the tab to pass through. The second tab can be folded over the edge. Then both could be soldered from the spring side. Spring added after that.

Whats the diameter of your springs?

I generally use whatever I pull off the old switch, but I have both 9mm base and 7mm base springs on order from cnq and fasttech.

9mm looks like a good size.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/qG9BSs07
17mm diameter board. 11mm spring pad.

If your 1st picture is an accurate indicator of the size LED you plan to use, I would suggest a smaller SMD like an 0603 there must be a way of mounting on the button and under the button cover.

I’m not sure what you mean? The led in the picture is a 5mm from radioshack that I was using to test the concept. It won’t be in the final version

Helios! Thanks, that looks great…. Except for one part. It looks like you have the resistor between the battery and the led, but the resistor should be between the body tube and the led.

Nice Helios, more or less going to fold the tabs of that OMTEN 1217 over and surface solder to the backside?

Worse comes to worse a few hits with a hobby file might clean up the edges if the clicky is too large

You can place resistors before or after an led.
I put the led at the body since you wanted through holes. Then only one pin needs to be isolated, the other pin is connected to the body. You can solder that pin from the battery side, seemed a bit easier.

Ok thanks for explaining. I’m still a bit of a newb on circuits if you can’t tell. The large pads on the top should allow use of smaller switches too.

I’m ordering 3 of these right now.

One tab, the long tab on new omten 1217 switches, would be folded under the switch and passed through the slot in the center of the board. The second tab is folded over the edge of the board. Gave the board a flat tire shape to give a little more clearance for that tab, in case room is tight in the tail.
You can then solder both from the spring side and add the spring. Instead of having to solder under the switch. As pilotdog mentioned its a bit of a pain to solder under a switch.

Very nice! Wonder if these could be used for some of the el-cheapo tailcap clickies w/ those weird spacers… (or maybe I am visualizing something different)

Either way…awesome assistance there Helios…good job!

It's raining...

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and even a

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Time to get an

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;)

LOL RC.

BLF at its best!

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I got the boards today, and they’re really great.

However, I didn’t realize how many of my lights actually use a 20mm pcb. Any chance someone with skills could stretch it out to 20mm?

I’ll create a 20mm version.
Could you post a front and back picture of the board that you received? I’d like to see that it came out as intended.