[WIP] 22mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM / Zener

Thanks! Good suggestion, I don’t see why not.

Thanks, me too.


https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/0vrfkFpR

  • The center via is 3mm in diameter.
  • Inner spring guides (4 small curved areas of resist) are 6mm inner diameter.
  • Mid-spring pad is 9mm in diameter.
  • Outer spring pads are ~12mm diameter. (for an 11mm spring)
  • Full BAT+ copper pour is 15mm in diameter.
  • R4/R5 are a voltage divider between BAT+ and GND for use with temp measurement.
  • R-OTC is a pulldown resistor for the OTC in case offtime takes too long to save modes.

I have 3 of these coming, plan to use one in a BTU Shocker… anything I should know before I build it?

Great work. In my short time here i really came to love the stuff you do.

The 7135 is for high efficiency in the lower modes - right?
Does this make for significant gains in 2+S Zener lights, since we are burning 50-100mW all the time trough Zenner and 200R?

Sweet! This should work in a F13, DD XM-L2 and cut the trace and get 7135 powering some red locator leds :bigsmile:

They look really neat! :slight_smile:

It’s cool having multiple variants of Wights boards, I got 3 different ones today and they all look so professional. :bigsmile:

Now to put em to work…

Just want you to know that this driver, loaded with ToyKeepers A6 firmware, works beautifully in a BTU Shocker with 3 XP-L V5 1A emitters. I rearranged the cell carrier to run in parallel and bypassed springs, used my last 2 of djozz’s phosphor bronze springs for the main contact points, and it does 4095 lumens OTF.

Pretty intense strobe in the hidden loop. :wink:

Thanks again Alex, nicely done! Perfect fit for the BTU Shocker.

Built a second version of this driver tonight. Zener modified with an extra 10uF cap on the Zener, it’s running 12.6V from 3 series LG HE-2 cells to 3 of the 9V MT-G2 emitters. OTF lumens is 8742. And this one get’s hot after about 60 seconds!

The beam profile is a fat hot spot with nice spill, putting a whopping amount of nice creamy white light out. And these MT-G2’s look really good in the big tri-reflector as well! :slight_smile:

I’ve got the Toshiba dual sided MOSFET with a nice coil of copper soldered to the top side, I’m thinking this one’s pulling in the 15-18A range, but haven’t measured it yet. Judging from the heat flowing into the massive head on this light, it’s definitely making some power.

Thanks Alex! :bigsmile:

I think we need some photos of this driver built. :wink:

Essentially simple when you’re not using the kitchen sink stuff…

This one was in the BTU Shocker with triple XP-L emitters in parallel, hence the triple 18ga wires at each LED terminal. I replaced it with a Zener modified version to run 9V MT-G2 emitters.

Thanks for the photo!

Looks pretty sweet. Need to get some of these ordered in the next couple of weeks.

I just ordered some to use in a Roche LS01. Hopefully they’ll trim down to 21mm just fine.

I was initially thrown off by all the extra resistor pads; it didn’t cross my mind that they didn’t all need to be populated.

Those extra pads are the kitchen sink spoken of earlier. For thermal and such. I don’t really understand that aspect of it, but as a normal driver it works just fine. Maybe I’ll figure out just what the kitchen sink has to do with lighting and implement some good “clean” fun. :stuck_out_tongue:

Has anyone used the pulldown resistor for the OTC? What resistor-value range are we talking about? My cap is taking too long to drain.

I remember seeing a discussion about it somewhere, but now I can’t find it.

Does this look right? I can’t get it to work properly, no matter what firmware I use it gets stuck on turbo. I’ve used a zener and replaced the diode with a 200ohm resistor.
I’m using it for a MT-G2 build.

Stuck on turbo? as if it is going DD and bypassing the driver?

As in, I can cycle through modes but when I get into turbo I can’t get out

wow. That’s very strange. My gut tells me it has to be something with the firmware, but you’ve already tried different ones so I’m stumped. Hopefully somebody else can chime in.

Think I’ll try another firmware tonight. Does C1 need to move?

Managed to get this working in a Nitecore MT40 :slight_smile:
Still not 100% happy with the firmware but I’m always adjusting the modes anyway.