BLF17DD Info Thread - Reference

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Fritz t. Cat
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I built a BLF17DD from Mountain Electronics. It didn’t work. Positive and negative in were shorted together. I saw a line across the positive LED pad and scratched it out with my camel bone handled pocket knife, which fixed it.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

WarHawk-AVG
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Looks like a bit of extra solder may have squeezed thru that via and accidentally bridged on the ground ring

DB Custom
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I’ve used that same board from OSHPark a couple of hundred times, never saw anything like that happen.

vestureofblood
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Fritz t. Cat wrote:
I saw a line across the positive LED pad and scratched it out with my camel bone handled pocket knife, which fixed it.


Ya cuz a knife with a plastic handle never would have worked.




LOL>  Sorry, I just couldn't resist.  Wink     Glad you got it fixed man.

In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
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hank
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Quote:
a pretty amazing 15mm model with everything above except a zener, which I’m hoping to try soon in some 1×14500 lights.

In the most dignified way possible: SQUEEE!!!

bdiddle
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Using a hot air station makes it so much easier to assemble

Newb

Fritz t. Cat
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I didn’t take a picture before I used the budget knife, but these show the line on the other side of the positive pad.

Click for full size.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Werner
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ToyKeeper wrote:
A production run would be cool, but first we’d need to settle on a “final” design for it. Wight has been improving things almost daily, so it’s not really stable yet.

However, I get the impression that the most popular driver would probably be a 17mm single-sided model with both a FET and a single 7135 chip, OTC, and attiny13a or attiny25. If there’s room, also a pad for a zener. This would cover almost everyone’s needs in the most common size of light — blinding highs, low and efficient lows, off-time or e-switch UI, several popular firmwares, and easy to reflash. Not much room for solder stars though, so people would need to mostly agree on a default firmware.


+1
One driver for all needs would be superb. I have no needs for complex firmware, as long as there are no annoying blinkmodes and some different brightness compared with a direct driven turbo I am happy.

@vesture of blood
I asked in the eagle eye a6 thread why they won’t sell extra drivers and got no real answer yet…I thought that if there will be a production run of 500 anyway 100 spare drivers could be have for cheap too…like it was before in some BLf lights. Seems for me the best way.
Compared to a nanjg for 3$ a Fet driver is really non budget at 10-15$…

bugsy36
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vestureofblood wrote:

Out of curiosity I'd like to know how everyone would feel about a production run of this board?    I just ordered a pair from Mtn electronics to try out so my own interest will be based on testing of those.   

 

However assuming that works I was thinking perhaps we could look into having some fully assembled boards made in china.

Has anyone here ever done this that would like to chime in?

I've had some quotes from a place or two on the fully assembled drivers, but in low quantity (100 pc)the price was still like $12 each I think.


Yes, qty 100 is approx $12 ($1200 in advance). Even at a qty of 1000...price is $9. Prices like $5 do not come in to play unless there is a qty of 5000.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

Werner
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Is this Quote from itead or another Chinese ? Or from a US assembler?
Didn’t thought that this would be so high Especially for such a small one Sided PCB

vestureofblood
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bugsy36 wrote:
Yes, qty 100 is approx $12 ($1200 in advance). Even at a qty of 1000...price is $9. Prices like $5 do not come in to play unless there is a qty of 5000.


+1, is this from itead?

The only reason I ask because the quote I got for 100 PC was $11 each and the driver was much larger and required far more components.   

This quote was for the 33.6mm, 6000ma 7135 based driver I use (super sized nang)

Here's our quotation :
Quantity50100
components$320$610
Assembly$250$320
PCB$80$110
Stencil$62$62
total$712 $1,102
1.PCBs are 2oz, 1.6mm, color green, HASL finish.
2.Shipping cost is not included in the price.


This is my only grounds for thinking that the cost for this driver would be lower.

In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
http://asflashlights.com/ Everyday Carry Flashlights, plus Upgrades for Maglite.

bugsy36
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No. It is from 4 other driver manufacturer's in China. The misinformation is that most  think that everything is cheaper in China. The only thing cheaper there is labor. When dealing with things like drivers, we are so far down to the component level the only possible savings is in pennies and not dollars.

There is another thread on BLF where the same was attempted. One of the hurdles is and will be the money. No manufacturer starts with less than 50% down and the remainder is upon completion prior to shipping.

That is why I keep trying to tell everybody that a custom hand built individually flashed driver for 12.99 is a deal.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

DB Custom
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I’ve only got a couple of the Ver 1.0 that I can find but they don’t have that trace across the positive like that. Looks likely that there was a run (or some affected boards) that had a trace that fell on top and got under the mask and nobody caught it. Freaky.

I’ll have to look at the boards closer from now on cause I would never have found that!

Bob Loblaw
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DBCstm wrote:
I’ve only got a couple of the Ver 1.0 that I can find but they don’t have that trace across the positive like that. Looks likely that there was a run (or some affected boards) that had a trace that fell on top and got under the mask and nobody caught it. Freaky.

I’ll have to look at the boards closer from now on cause I would never have found that!

I have 2 boards that were like this. On one of them the trace was exposed, obviously a flaw, but the other looked like it belonged there.
Fritz t. Cat
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I found it by debugging. It didn’t work. (With the thin wires on my battery box, I didn’t notice anything heating up.) Connecting straight to the star didn’t light up either, until I disconnected the star from the driver. My meter showed zero ohms between positive and negative. I couldn’t find any solder connecting positive and negative, so I looked and found the narrow trace. The other boards didn’t have the trace. Scraping it away fixed it. I don’t remember all the other things I tried.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

A380
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I was soldering this driver and lost the 100 ohm resistor that goes in position R3.
I found one from another driver that is marked as “R100”. Is the same value?
Also have two spare “2000”, can I put one on top of the other or I’m wrong with the mathematics.
Thank you very much.

Rufusbduck
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I think “R” denotes the decimal point so R100 is .1 ohm. You need 100R. In reality though, that resistor was placed as a quick fix for a voltage spike issue that was corrected by moving C1 I think.

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Answering your other question: yes, two 200 ohm resistors in parallel gives you the equivalent resistance as a single 100 ohm.

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

A380
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Thanks you both for your quick answer!!

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Anyone has tried the 70N03 FET on BLF17DD?
Also is the FET on the ld-25 driver 70N03? Planning to get that FET from ld25 and transfer it to blf17dd but i want to make sure it’s really 70N03 and will work on blf17dd.

DB Custom
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The Vishay 70N03 is what we used when it was available. The current trend is to a different package in part due to availability.

Oops! My memory strikes again. We used the 70N02.

Edit again, the 02 is a better choice but the 03 will still work well. At the voltage we use you probably couldn’t tell a difference from what I can tell by the respective datasheets. You might hold out for a more edumicated opinion though.

pinkpanda3310
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I bought a couple of blf17dd drivers from mtn.electronics last year. I want to use one now with a side switch but from what I’m reading I need the right firmware. How can I check if I have the right firmware for that without busting it?

 

FmC
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I bought a couple of blf17dd drivers from mtn.electronics last year. I want to use one now with a side switch but from what I’m reading I need the right firmware. How can I check if I have the right firmware for that without busting it?

Can you go into your order history to see what firmware is on them?

You won’t fry anything if you hook it up & bench test by grounding pin 2 to see if it changes modes.

pinkpanda3310
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I tried looking through my emails but I think I deleted it. So if it won’t fry anything I’ll try what you suggested, thanks.

 

FmC
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Some firmwares were set to use pin 3 instead of pin 2 – so try both whilst you are at it.

Probably easier to just add/remove/add power to the driver on the test bench; if it changes mode, it’s not an e-switch f/ware.

pinkpanda3310
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I just tried powering on and off and it seems I have firmware for a clicky. Is there anyway to change this?

 

FmC
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Only by re-flashing with the appropriate f/ware.

I’m set up to do it, but I think it would cost you more in postage to send it to me than it would cost to get another one from RMM, or even to get the gear to program it yourself.

see;

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36216

or

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29684

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Oookay, new driver it is. Thanks FmC

 

pyro1son
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Would this work?

Pastebin                                      &nbs

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pyro1son wrote:
Would this work?

2 pounds for a mosfet? Great! Smile

On Resistance Rds(on):0.0059ohm vs 4mOms

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