I agree, i have a sneaking suspicion of that also, they really hide that option well nowadays, before the resolution center was way more visible and easy to use.
I just filed a claim against a shoddy seller who sold me a flashlight lens that looked nothing like the listing pictures, when i didn’t get a response on the return/refund section of the resolution center i tried to get ebay to step in but couldn’t i only got error messages. But today i got my full refund from the seller it was only 2$ but it is the principle & i am still missing the part i thought i had bought
Some sellers like to give you a hassle in hopes you’ll just go away. They know return shipping back to china with tracking is much more than a lot of items are worth.
Take a picture of the board you received showing the chip markings then send that to the seller along with a copy of the picture in their listing and quote the message you sent prior to sale asking if the item is as pictured. Tell them refund or neg feedback.
Just turned in a request at fasttech for them to carry both the Micro USB charging one…AND the ones w/ the battery protection built on the boards (found a 2x lot at aliexpress for $2.25)
I have used one of those with battery protection for a couple of months, and i have been very satisfied.
But today i accidentally connected a 10440 in backwards and in some hour it sucked my poor little 10440 down to 0,8v when i realized what i had done i disconnected it & it rather quickly recovered to 2.75v & then i started to charge it to see if it was recoverable, but after a bunch of hours on the charger it only got up to 3.08v so i will recycle it.
It doesn’t beak the charger to connect it wrong but it can discharge the battery low enough to break it if you don’t catch it in time
Yeah i was surprised, if it wouldn’t have this weakness it would be perfect for a cheap robust charger board that have at least some foolproofness in built.
Sorry i can’t give any insight on the battery protect IC, I really don’t understand the circuit well enough to know how to measure it, best to leave that up to HKJ.
There is a rather extensive youtube review of this board, but i don’t remember how i found it……
It seems i was wrong, the reason i couldn’t charge up the 10440 i though was killed, was the “with protection usb board” was broken.
I tried to charge another 10440 today & found that it didn’t charge at all anymore. So i reflowed another board for 10440 charging and now even the supposedly broken 10440 is charging fine, i have charged it up right now to 4v before i started it had recovered to 3.35v, i don’t know if it will get up to 4.2v in reasonable time & hold a charge yet, that will take some more time to figure out.
Last time i used a 10k ohm sense resistor but that would take forever so this time i used a 5,6k ohm for (i believe, someone with better math skills please correct me if i am wrong ;)) ~235mA charging, that is a much more reasonable speed, still safe but in almost half the time.
I must have killed the first board when i left it connected the wrong way for a longer time last time, the reason i make that distinction is i know i have quickly accidentally connected it wrong before, for just a second or 2 but that didn’t beak it.
More bad news the second USB charger board with protection is only charging up to 4.10-4.11v……… and i thought 4.18-4.19v was bad as low as 4.10v is sad on a tiny 10440 battery when the Vf on the XP-L can be up to 3.8-3.9v, that means it start out dim and only getting dimmer & i usually switch battery before it comes to 3.75v rested.
I will try to reflow the other main component from the now dead board that was at least charging to 4.19v i hope that component still works, if it doesn’t that would at least explain what broke so win win. I need to order some more of these now anyway.
Potentially dumb question: can two of these chargers be used in parallel to charge a single-cell more quickly? I know there are single boards with dual Tp4056.
I thought I ordered this one months ago but apparently not. I have no idea if its genuine or not but the picture has the correct symbol on it and its not cheap.
I have some i got off ebay a while ago but I put them aside as soon as I saw they didn’t have the right symbol. I just took them out for a quick test. Other than termination voltage, what else can I test for to see if they’re usable? Or would I be better off just getting some new ones from Richard?
it was only 2$ but it is the principle & i am still missing the part i thought i had bought 