Modded Eagle Eye X6 Shootout!

all those x6’s are really something else. u hold the record for brightest x6’s thats for sure. that x6 with the custom tube and xhp70 is incredible. nice looking beam also. great job there!
and that shocker needs a name, it really do deserve one haha. man , it musta been reflex or something, cus when i got to that beam shot, i squinted my eyes like it was real life. hahah

thanks for the time you took to show us these great pictures and of your masterpieces!

So it’s shorter than cute-3/4 but taller than gt4?

You are right Scott, thanks for noticing that, i was curious if it was the same hight as the cute-4.
The C12285_ANGIE-S is 10,67 mm + 1,45mm & the cute-4 ss is 15mm + 1,5mm.

As far as i can see the GT4 is shorter than the C12285_ANGIE-S

Another thing i noticed in the data sheet is the C12285_ANGIE-S
support a lot of different led’s

LED Viewing Angle Beam efficiency cd/lm
Z5 sim: 10 Spot sim: 92 % sim: 19.000 -
LUXEON H50-2 sim: 16 Spot sim: 93 % sim: 8.000 -
Oslon SSL 150 10 deg Spot 94 % 17.000 -
XP-E 11 deg Spot 91 % 14.700 -
Oslon SSL 80 12 deg Spot 93 % 11.000 -
Oslon Square EC 14 deg Spot 94 % 8.300 -
XP-G 15 deg Spot 93 % 8.020 -
LUXEON T 15 deg Spot 93 % 7.600 -
LUXEON TX 15 deg Spot 92 % 8.100 -

So it is not 11 degrees on a xp-g emitter but 15 degrees, so i guess even a little more from the bigger xp-l led.

I like that each TIR is clear of the other, with the CUTE-4 they’re merged. I like that too, and might try it for a similar but different build. :wink:

This Angie is 10.7mm tall, pretty much between the GT4 and CUTE-4, with individual TIR diameters about double that of a Carclo quad that is also shorter.

Could you measure how deep & wide the opening for the led’s are in the angie?
On the cute-4 they are rather shallow, so i am a bit worried that the XP-L’s with domes still on will destructively dedome themselves.

The CUTE-4 opening for the led’s are ~5,05mm wide & ~2,70mm deep.

Interesting that the Angie TIR’s don’t merge, i hadn’t noticed that.

A crazy idea, do you think 4 XHP50 with one of these quad optics & a 2xbattery mod, would have a higher output than your XHP70 with the 2xbattery & Minnie M reflector.

They should be good for about 2000 lumens each
at least x 4…….could get pretty bright :smiley:

Could burn your hand in like 5 seconds too….

I’m amazed at how hot just 1 XHP50 gets on 4amps

LOL :smiley: yeah, but thats what the different levels & the switch are there for :wink:

And at 4A it is upwards about 2700-3000 lumens so………that would be pretty bright x4……… :wink:

The one I had at 4 amps was in a p60 (admittedly, not the best thermal transfer) Solarforce host, and it unsoldered an emitter wire from the Noctigon in about 7 seconds.

Even in a bigger host (F13 head with DST battery tube) the head is too hot to touch after about 30 seconds. I had it running for a little over a minute without problems, but then when I turned it off and laid it down on the floor it actually melted some of our cheap carpet.

edit: By no means should that stop anyone else from trying an XHP50 quad in an X6, but I won’t be doing it

At just 9 mm the GT3/4 is simply too short to focus well and is small dome only without mods. The Angie beam looks slightly broader than cute-3 so I wonder how the Angie would compare to a cute-4. That extra 4+ mm is a nice space saver.

Actually Scott, shining the two of em (CUTE-3 and Angie) from about 24’ in the house the Angie has about a 2’ smaller hot spot. The Angie covers an 8’ wall at 24’ while the CUTE-3 has an overlap of a foot or more on floor and ceiling at the same distance.

I used the copper heat sink from the triple plus 4.3mm 6.4mm more copper for the Angie. Lot of copper under those 4 emitters! Feels nice and solid in the hand too. It’s enough my favorite that I added 4 Trits to it and it’s in my pocket. :wink:

wasn’t there a triple XP-L that makes 4000 lumens?
where does that fit in the awesomeness range?
:bigsmile:

I think someone put blinders on it and took it to the moon. :stuck_out_tongue:

Same lens as 5 when I sent it out, but the most potent one I’ve built to date for reason’s unknown to me. There seems to be some variance in the XP-L’s being shipped and you got the hottest one’s I’ve seen so far.

I am confused :~ siata94 talks about the triple you sent him, but you say it is the same lens as 5, that has a quad?

So how hot do they run?

I meant 4, sorry. It’s the CUTE-3 10754 intended for the Intematix emitter.

HOT! A 30 second step down is almost too long.

Ok, that makes sense :slight_smile: could it be that siata94 is triple with V6 XP-L’s?

That would explain the variance of the different XP-L you are talking about, because the difference between your #4 at 3771 lumens and if i add 7% i get 4034 lumens and that would match an higher flux bin.

Siata’s does have XP-L V6 2C’s, but I have yet to build another that matches those numbers. 3800 or so is the best I’ve seen since. Standard variance? Got lucky with that set? His needs all it can muster, as he changed out the spot lens and put a wide diffuser lens in it that robs him of nearly 1000 lumens. Seriously.

I bought the XP-L V6’s in my new quad as a 1A bin. I’m now told there is no V6 1A bin. The best they could be is V5’s sold as V6’s. This comes from someone else contacting Cree directly. I had intended to de-dome them but didn’t when I built the Quad as they fit in the optics. But I didn’t like the tint very much. So yesterday I attempted to de-dome them. And failed. For some reason the newer XP-L’s seem to have crumbly domes on them and they don’t just pop off like they used to. In the process of trying to clean up the die, I got phosphor off and this resulted in a visible area of blue on the die and a blue ring in the light.

So. I busted my chops breaking the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive loose to get the copper sink out. I couldn’t reflow it in the head of the light as I’ve done in the past because of the 4 Trits I’ve put in it. I only had 3 V6 3D emitters, so I opted to use 2 of the 3D and 2 2C. I figured on gluing the optic in to protect the emitters. And forgot to do so. One of the 2Cs got the seal broken on the dome, it didn’t pop clear but it didn’t look right under the optic and was obviously “damaged”. So again I opened it up and managed to pop out the optic, de-domed the 2 2Cs. That worked out pretty well, but in the entire process it appears that one of the 2C’s didn’t re-flow in exactly the same position so it’s not directly under the TIR in the optic, which is why the dome got damaged I’m sure.

It’s working fine, warmer than I’d have liked, and shows about 4300 lumens in the box. But my 4578 is gone… :frowning: And I was SOOO hopeful that the V6’s would actually bump it into the 4600’s. Such is life.

When I first built it, I used thermal paste under the Cu sink from Nitro and only glued in the top layer of my discs, such that only about a 1/4” of the top was glued into the head. This is how I was able to take it apart. Now the entire thing is glued in. It ain’t coming apart easily again!! (Not that it was easy yesterday)

Not to be thwarted, I searched the world over and thought I’d found true love, she found another and Pffft she was gone….uh, oops! I mean I searched the world over and found some Ledil CUTE-4 SS in stock and have 3 of those on the way to me now. :bigsmile:

My momma always said, in a sing song voice, “If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again!” :wink:

Sorry to hear you had a frustrating day of modding also, yesterday i totally failed in getting an XP-L to work in my little Hugsby xp-1, it works in the head when i apply power & on the tube if i short out the bottom, but as soon as i screw in the switch bottom it refused to work.
But the strange thing i can’t figure out why, the same switch part works perfectly fine in another hugsby light.

Anyway it is my first modding failure & it stings a bit :frowning:

I ordered my cute-4 optics from led-tech.de & i know another place in france that also sells them, where did you order yours from?

When i dedomed my XP-L V6 1A i first sliced of the top & then i dunked them in gas for a bit, that worked perfectly.

Yeah i have heard of this suspicion against the LEDDNA’s V6 1A, i asked nitro because he had some extra V6 1A from there if he could ask djozz if he would be willing to compare the V6 from LEDDNA & V5 from IOS and i could order it to him, if he don’t have some already.
But if djozz don’t want to maybe you could compare them?

If LEDDNA really is cheating us we need to know, because this place as a community spends a lot of money there.

Either your switch body isn’t snugging down and making ground when you put it on the light, or your cell is too long and pressing too hard on the mcpcb. If the light works from the tail with the switch off, and the switch works on another body, it’s got to be in the fitment of the switch housing to the battery tube. Not a failure, just needs some tweaking. :wink:

Cree says there’s no V6 1A, so there isn’t. I trust the guy that called em and found that out. Even if it’s a V5 instead, that’s only about 20-40 lumens difference ( or 80-160 lumens in a quad) which is totally insignificant up there at 3000 lumens and over.

Wrong to misrepresent though. Either way.

Edit: The X6 has a battery tube that can’t be flipped, it won’t work. Maybe your hugsby is like that? Double check that first, might be a really easy fix. :wink: