And i saw a HKJ test yesterday of the Keepower IMR18650 2500mAh (the same as the LG ICR18650HE2) thats rated for discharging down to 2.0v 
Interesting... Who will invent some kind of parallel tubes fur upcoming single cell UF version so we can use 2x cell in parallel? In that case I would also rise number of 7135 chips.
Or maybe some of you guys knows where such aluminum 2x parallel 18650 boxes can be bought?
There are lot of plastic ones on net but I did not managed to find aluminum.
Maybe you can use a powerbank? There are plenty to chose from, and many of them are aluminum and some of them can be opened easily.
Yes power bank could be used...
I have been thinking recently about 2x18650 tube side by side(parallel) and below that picatinny rail attachment.
I just cant think of how to make functional version of that for quick and safe swap of batteries.
But now I am thinking on your idea in small configuration. Lets say we have 3x phone batteries in parallel(6000 mah) in some home made small aluminum case on which we can mount UF head and just connect + - wires of battery pack on driver.
It would be ok for simple on/off action.
I am not sure how phone cells would take 4A or more discharge? Maybe that is way to much for them...
If you are talking about running 3x lithium polymer cells in parallel, that could possible work at 4A.
But i haven’t tried anything like that myself, but i know some of th RC guys are using lithium polymer & they often need rather high C values, so my best tips is to do some searches on lithium polymer and various RC uses and you should find some more info or discussion on it.
I didn’t realize that some batteries can be discharged until that low nowadays. Interesting, but I still won’t try that anyway just for the peace of mind. 
No I am talking about real phone cells. Look what I got in one battery package: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/32209
I know & i am also talking about phone style flat cells, there are RC guys who are using the flat phone style battery’s too.
The link goes to The BLF Deal Alert Thread, i can’t find what you are referring to.
I have 3 questions: 1. If, and I must emphasize the “IF”, if I managed to make a battery holder for 2 18650 cells in a parallel, how much throw could I get from a dedomed XP-G2 driven at the highest current ? Would it be worth the effort? Would it be a better solution than using a 1504 on 1x26650?
2. I have a trustfire tr-j19 with dedomed xm-l2 u3 1a leds I think? driven at 5 amps. What would be the THROW of a modded 1405 compared to my modded tr-j19?
3. I want a budget friendly throw monster. Is this one heck of a thrower I need or should I try something else?
- The output of the XP-G2 is determined by the current going into it (and some other things, but let’s ignore them first). So if I assume that the LED current is always 4A, in this case whether you use 2x18650 in parallel or a single 26650 it won’t change the output at all but it is just a matter of runtime (total battery capacity you have). If crappy battery is used which cannot sustain itself at high current then it is different story.
2. Depends of what kind of configuration you have with your 1405. The modded 1405 can out throw your modded J19 easily if everything of your 1405 is geared towards maximum throw. FYI my modded 1405 is putting out 360kcd, and some even have more than 400kcd. I suspect that the lens quality might be one of the variations here.
3. It really is the longest thrower for the money currently, given that you know how to mod.
Hello!
2 pieces protected keeppower 26650(Size:(L)71.10mm*(D)26.40mm) fit well in the 1405?
The Trustfire tr-j19 is a triple, each led has a small reflector. It is a flooder that produces a ton of light, way more than your UF-1405 will have.
But if you talk throw, I estimate your Trustfire throws well under 100kcd, the UF-1405 with a dedomed XP-G2 at 5A will be 400 kcd.
EDIT: I looked things up and apparently I underestimated this Trustfire, I just now see that Johnnymac did a mod on the Trustfire tr-j19 that resulted in 200kcd, so I stand corrected for my estimation of under 100kcd: http://theflashlightforum.com/index.php?topic=304.0
maybe a pointless question, but is there really no way to modify the pill or some other parts of the flashlight to accept 22mm drivers? I mean this part 
which holds the driver. Is it possible to cut off the protruding part that holds the 17mm driver and replace it for some adapter ( like a metal tube with inner diameter of 22mm cut to the correct height )and glue it there with a JB weld or some permanent threadlock glue? I somehow can not stop thinking about it 
If there is a way to make it work with a reliable 5a driver on 2s, it will be the first thing I will buy when the dollar/euro exchange rate gets better.
Completely possible. I use 3/4” copper pipe and shim it with more copper to fit the aluminum driver area on the pill. Press fit and go.
Sounds like a plan! Could you take a photo or two of this particular flashlight pill modified to accept 22 mm drivers?
I can, here are a couple cruddy cell phone pictures. One is the business end of the mod, the other is the light it’s in. The aluminum ring on the bezel is there to protect the aspheric lens I put in with a shorter focal length.
I used Arctic Silver adhesive to hold everything permanently, but the copper shims dug in slightly as everything was pressed together, so electrical conductivity should be good long-term. Soldering the driver is the hard part, even pre-tinning the edge of the copper tube doesn’t quite make it easy. The heat gets pulled out so fast I end up having to go over it with my butane torch to make sure I don’t have any cold solder joints.
Now it needs a wavien collar or something else based on light recycling and you can start selling them!
May I suggest something? Nice idea btw...About pre-tinning copper tube; You can use file or rasp and use it on part of copper tube you want to tin. That way you'll clean tube from mess and solder will attach better.
So scratch with file, don't use solder paste just solder with rosin core and very wide solder iron tip. When you have enough solder on tip(put plenty here) just press and hold it on filed part... When tube will be very hot(after 30 sec approx) solder will attach nice and easy to tube and then you can spread rest of solder.
And do that on vise which is well isolated with some kind of rubber because if copper would be clamped into metal vise it would be far harder to solder something on it because metal vise would start acting as a huge heatsink drawing all heat off copper tube that is more than necessary for sticky solder.
I don’t have any problems pre-tinning. I do that with a butane torch while it is still just the tube. However you just gave me a great idea for pre-tinning when I don’t have any clearance, the gouges would fill with solder, then I could turn it back down to the original OD and still have exposed solder.
The darn thing moves so much heat that it’s difficult getting the solder to stick to it when I go to solder the driver in place (with my Hakko 936 @ max temp). Hitting afterwards with the torch gets everything to bond completely.
I never had to use torch for my copper pills, brass pills even easier. I also use good old hakko 936 :) Not even max temperature somewhere at 80%...
Logically torch should be easier...
It just did not look like firm fit on your picture. I was probably wrong...
I test each pill with additional rasping or filing over the solder and if it drops I cant solder the driver until I fix this.