Hugsby XP-1

Yes, positive or forward click….they allow you to have momentary on, like a Normally-Opened button instead of being like a switch. The light goes on as you press the button even if it does not “click” and block the light to whatever state it is.

Reverse click instead activate the light or powered it off only when the button is finaly released and the end of the “pressing” movement

4.54 USD on AliExpress, could not resist:8) I blame you guys later :bigsmile:

Just got my xp-1 in the mail yesterday and was curious about the use of an 10440 as well. This is the only mention of it that I’ve been able to find. Has anyone else tried to use the xp-1 with a 10440? I noticed a vender here (Tinywind) stated it was able to use a 10440 but don’t know how reliable they are.

I would be careful. The drivers in the XP-2 appear to be different to those in the XP-1. I only have the XP-2 but the driver is clearly marked ‘2AA’ which would suggest it’s designed for 2 cells (3v). I don’t know if the driver in the XP-1 is. Others have reported killing an XP-1 by using a 10440.

So i Bought an XP-1 and an XP-2 for 4.50 each. I have a Streamlight Microstream and it is basically the same size but the XP-1 is a bit brighter. Great lights super bright. I tried them both with 10440, 2 full cycles, and worked fine.

I liked them so much i wanted to buy some for some friends so I bought a 5 pack of xp-1. These were from a different dealer.

The LEDs in these ones were different color from the first ones I bought. The first 2 i got were A white/bluish Light. The others are a much warmer oranish/yellow. they both are the same brightness so that is not an issue. I don’t mind either one, but there is a noticeable difference side by side.

So they must pump out different things at different times. So if your dead set about a certain color of light this inconsistency might not be for u.

Other than that i would totally buy this light.

Sidenote: what the hell is “Hugsby” anyway. Did some chinese factory just make 20million of these and spread them thru out china

probably different driver?
It’s really a lottery!!!
I bought XP-1 and XP-2, and they worked only with AAA Nimh…

the XP1 is my fav budget AAA light (imo better than the SF348), they need to lower the price on their AA models :slight_smile:

I find it very strange that I have not found a single seller that mentions the fact that these lights actually contain XP-E2 emitters. I should have thought that would have been a good selling point, yet nobody mentions it.
Very odd. :~

Try asking if they actually have the product in hand — if they have their own warehouse and shipping.
Most of the websites, I think, are just different faces on the same business, which advertises, collects money, and orders things from somewhere else.
They’re called “dropshippers” — the people at the “seller” site who take the order won’t know what they’re selling until you tell them what you received.

When I have a question about something offered for sale, I always include “do you actually have one you can open up and look at?” — mostly I get honest answers that they have to ask whoever it is “they get it from” and that’s because they never actually set hands on the thing.

I’m not cynical enough yet, but I’m working on it.

@Calculon808, Interesting that yours worked with an 10440.

Update to by post

Like in my other post i said i had 2 different led versions. The whiter led lights worked fine with the 10440.

I just put 10440 in the other one i have with the, the warmer/ orange one and it BROKE it.

So it is a total crap shoot with these. I would not use 10440s with this one. i guess i just got lucky with the first ones i got

Thanks for the update, i am sorry it burnt out for you :frowning:

Dx have a 12mm driver that works good in the xp-1, including with an 10440.

There are also two versions of the BLF tiny10 7135 and FET plus matching tiny 12 drivers in the Oshpark projects thread. Rich at RMM can supply a flashed driver and the kit needed to put one together. The only extra thing you need to do is extend the led+ wire through the pcb and bend it over th mcu as a B+ contact and you can use 10440’s. I kind of doubt that the switch can handle the current from a BLF Tiny10DD so I would stick to the 7135 version with 2 chips. It’s possible the switch can be opened up and modded to withstand more current but I’d be very careful since plastic switch parts ate delicate.

I have an XP-1 in front of me. Is it necessary to wick the solder from the ground ring to remove the driver? It seems to be soldered to a brass insert that may be press fit into the aluminum head.

I think so, i haven’t done it on mine yet. My Hugsby XP-1 mod with an XP-L was an failure :frowning: the led burnt out.
I have bothered to try to fix it since then.

The only one i know who has upgraded the driver is ohoya
I think he said he said he was able to cut through the solder, i tried that but failed.
I tried to use the soldering iron to heat up the solder & get out the driver by using a solder sucker pump tool, but failed.

If i would try again i would probably try my heatgun & liquefy the solder & hopefully get the driver out.

Good luck :slight_smile:

I can attest that the AK-007 driver from DX works pretty well with 10440 (and also with AAA). I’ve replaced the stock XP-1 driver with it in one light.

And yes, I was able to remove the stock driver by cutting (patiently) through the solder joint and shaving the solder off. Actually, for the AK-007 when I added it back in, I just soldered the original emitter/emitter leads to the AK-007 and the AK-007 is just kind of sitting there. I never bothered to solder the driver to the brass ring inside the head, and it seems to work ok like that.

As far as I know, there was an XP-1 (1 x AAA) and an XP-2 (2 x AAA) lights, and they had different drivers.

The driver from the XP-2 could actually take 1 x 10440 (you’d need to use it with a dummy AAA or use it in an XP-1 body with the XP-2 head).

The XP-1 head would burn out with a 10440… a couple of us tried, and found that out the hard way.

So, bottom line:

1) You can replace the original XP-1 or XP-2 driver with an AK-007 driver, but the AK-007 is a 1xAAA or 1x10440 driver only.

2) The XP-2 driver will work with 1x10440.

The XP-1 and XP-2 are still almost my favorite AAA/10440 lights, and as weird as it sounds, I like the 2xAAA form factor, so I run the XP-2 with 1 x 10440 and 1 dummy AAA.

Jim

There are two sections of the battery tube which are narrow enough for the clip so it can be reversed. However, swapping the head for the tail also works and the clip fits best on the narrower tube section (section without “Hugsby”). This one seems to be a neutral tint, somewhere between a cool white and a Nichia.

With regards to the head swapping of XP-1 and XP-2… I swapped the heads over but continued to use AAA rather than lithium batteries… Both lights still work. So now I have a really bright (sort of overdriven) XP-1 head with XP-2 body and a dimmer XP-2 head with XP-1 body.
I like this arrangement because the dimmer light can be used as a bedside light so you don’t blind yourself at night and the brighter light is more exciting :bigsmile: and a very useful AAA light.

Oh, I like that idea. Will definitely give that a shot. Thanks for sharing logesearle. :)

No problem!! And just to add to the above… I have only used cheap alkaline AAA’s with the XP-1 head and XP-2 body… I’m not sure the XP-1 head would appreciate some really good AAA cells in series :Sp