I always thought that a single die blue/white led has an inherent forward voltage of around 3v, and to get a higher voltage white led you have to string multiple dies together. e.g the 6v Mt-g2 is not a single die led but an array, xhp is a quad etc.
Maybe they could do something to minimize the gaps between multiple dies though, that would be good.
I’m just waiting and praying for an MT-G3, higher CRI, higher output, denser array pattern etc
I hope custom’s does not keep or hold onto this led like they have from my last order with Hank.
Hank was even nice enough to send another shipement of XM-L2’s and even it hasn’t made it here either and I think this is all on custom’s.
Iv’e ordered from Hank before and it went smooth and he even writes back when he can on advice when he does not have to so I do not want to deter anyone from ordering from him as like I said I just now ordered one of these MT-G2’s myself.
I have looked very carefully at the ansi light charts and compaired the xml tints to the MT-G2 tints (for the P0 and Q0 5000K tints only) the 2 step “MTGBEZ-00-0000-0N00P050H” 70 CRI is centered right on the intersection of 3b-3c-3d-3a with a slight bias of 3B being the closest match (again on paper based on cree specs) YMMV.
I have also noticed that when I up binned my P0 to Q0 “good” lights I used one of the leftover P0 MT-G2 emitters but drove it DD and it is now in fact “whiter/cooler” then the “higher” binned Q0. My point being that the “coolness” of the MT-G2 is also a function of how hard it is bing driven.
Yes good observation, that’s certainly an aspect of these leds and actually well documented in the datasheet under “Relative Chromaticity vs Current”, and “Relative Chromaticity vs Temperature”.
Essentially the harder and hotter you drive the emitter the more the temperature and tint will shift from it’s binned state.
In general the light tends to get cooler in terms of colour temperature and shifts towards the pinker side of the chromaticity spectrum as the led is driven harder.
It’s also a reason I generally don’t like truly current controlled drivers vs PWM controlled ones. With the current controlled scenario the emitters tend to look considerably greener and warmer in the lower modes and turn bluer/whiter as the modes are stepped through. Not pretty.
PWM mode control is always a pulsed form of maximum drive current so there is essentially no difference in how hard you drive the led, simply a difference in how long the on pulses last. (of course temperature still affects the tint shift here)
If it gets noticeably blue and you start to see a separation between blue and yellow in the hotspot you should take that as a hint that you’re driving the emitter beyond it’s capabilities thermally.
Not sure about other Crees but the XML2 is supposed to shift warmer as temps go up and cooler (tint) as current increases. If it turns bluer due to heat, it’s probably at the point of failure. I don’t see anything in the MTG2 data sheet that indicates a shift one way or the other which would be nice.
I have one running on only 5v USB right now and it makes a nice keyboard light. I’m waiting on an extension tube for my C12 before I can see what it’ll really do. :evil:
Yup, same here. Don't know why, because so far everything went good. To bad if you need something for small amount, registered raise price significantly. If you order a lot, customs hammers you .
Still waiting on my four as well. Good thing I don’t actually have anything ready to put one of these in. I just bought them for the price break. Needing them would make the waiting even worse.
Just put together my first MT-G2 light with one of Hank’s emitters. Wow this thing is insanely bright. I can’t believe how much flood and throw this thing has at 4 amps in a C8. Needless to say I should have ordered more than one because now I’m going to have to wait a few weeks for another.