New 4XP Noctigon MCPCB for quad optic

where can I get the order number? as I can’t even log in to the website :frowning:
did you send the confirmation in the mail?

Then please PM me your real name so that I can search the order in the history, thanks.

For those with no idea what to do with them, I’m thinking of making a lamp with one.

I have made 2 already, both with Squirrel cage incandescent lamps. Iirc, they were 2200k, what a beautiful golden glow they give off.

Here is a link to show what I mean.

Pinterest also has some good ones.

I have looked very carefully at the ansi light charts and compaired the xml tints to the MT-G2 tints (for the P0 and Q0 5000K tints only) the 2 step “MTGBEZ-00-0000-0N00P050H” 70 CRI is centered right on the intersection of 3b-3c-3d-3a with a slight bias of 3B being the closest match (again on paper based on cree specs) YMMV.

I have also noticed that when I up binned my P0 to Q0 “good” lights I used one of the leftover P0 MT-G2 emitters but drove it DD and it is now in fact “whiter/cooler” then the “higher” binned Q0. My point being that the “coolness” of the MT-G2 is also a function of how hard it is bing driven.

Yes good observation, that’s certainly an aspect of these leds and actually well documented in the datasheet under “Relative Chromaticity vs Current”, and “Relative Chromaticity vs Temperature”.
Essentially the harder and hotter you drive the emitter the more the temperature and tint will shift from it’s binned state.

In general the light tends to get cooler in terms of colour temperature and shifts towards the pinker side of the chromaticity spectrum as the led is driven harder.

It’s also a reason I generally don’t like truly current controlled drivers vs PWM controlled ones. With the current controlled scenario the emitters tend to look considerably greener and warmer in the lower modes and turn bluer/whiter as the modes are stepped through. Not pretty.

PWM mode control is always a pulsed form of maximum drive current so there is essentially no difference in how hard you drive the led, simply a difference in how long the on pulses last. (of course temperature still affects the tint shift here)

If it gets noticeably blue and you start to see a separation between blue and yellow in the hotspot you should take that as a hint that you’re driving the emitter beyond it’s capabilities thermally.

Not sure about other Crees but the XML2 is supposed to shift warmer as temps go up and cooler (tint) as current increases. If it turns bluer due to heat, it’s probably at the point of failure. I don’t see anything in the MTG2 data sheet that indicates a shift one way or the other which would be nice.

I have one running on only 5v USB right now and it makes a nice keyboard light. :slight_smile: I’m waiting on an extension tube for my C12 before I can see what it’ll really do. :evil:

Thanks Hank…I just ordered one MT-G2 and a nice other stuff to build my next project :slight_smile:

No more sending unregistered mails to certain countries (mine) :~

Yup, same here. Don't know why, because so far everything went good. To bad if you need something for small amount, registered raise price significantly. If you order a lot, customs hammers you .

DayLighter wrote:

Still waiting for my 10 MT-G2s to arrive..sigh.. i hate the waiting part

Same here on both counts, except 4 emitters.

Still waiting on my four as well. Good thing I don’t actually have anything ready to put one of these in. I just bought them for the price break. Needing them would make the waiting even worse.

i received my first 2 few weeks ago but not my other things i had ordered ?

Just put together my first MT-G2 light with one of Hank’s emitters. Wow this thing is insanely bright. I can’t believe how much flood and throw this thing has at 4 amps in a C8. Needless to say I should have ordered more than one because now I’m going to have to wait a few weeks for another.

We have received the V6 1D which we appreciate.
http://intl-outdoor.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=V6+1D&x=0&y=0

Not sure why these V6 1D's haven't gotten more attention here. I'm think'n they will do nice de-domed. XM-L2 1C's de-domed, I feel look awful, but the 1D is more inline with the 1A tint on the CREE tint chart, so they should tint shift about equal, maybe even better than the 1A. I think we said in the past, de-doming can go 2 tints up and 1 tint to the right or so, and if that's right, the 1D should be less green than a 1A when de-domed.

Of course I'd prefer a V6 0D, 1R or 1U tint, but for some reason they aren't available I suppose.

Well, I just ordered a couple and we'll see. At least from Hank, I know they will be as advertised Wink. Thanks!!

They were an amazing deal when they were on sale. I bought a couple and they performed really well. I hot de-domed one and for some reason it had a slight cool green look to it that I didn’t really like. Output was really good though.

So it should be ok to de-dome the V6 1D in my Sniper, Tom? Hmmm, I know, I just KNOW, if I try to heat de-dome it like I have so many others I’ll pull a bond wire….

Yep for the Sniper - it's what I was think'n. Funny, couple of my cleanest de-domes were by accident, with XP-L's. Last one was the other day - a V6 3D, so rare now, but I'm afraid to try it - has to be green as could be...

tristanxoxo - Oh boy - was hoping there would be less green than a 1A dedomed... Hhmm.

Funny thing…my experiences are very similar with XP-Ls. The cleanest ones were accidental (from the BLF A6s centering ring). However the V6 1D didn’t come off as cleanly on the first try. I had to go back in and remove some residue. However, all of my XP-L de-domes have been successful (no broken bond wires).

It regards to the tint, perhaps there may be some variation. Do let me stop you from trying it. I would like to know what your thoughts are after dedoming.

Is the only difference between XPL and XPL HI the domed vs flat silicon? How much tint shift occurs with just a flat shave? I kinda like 1D just the way it is.