It would be something to disable the tail when the light isn’t in use. If I can get it to fit, it would be on the inside of the light, next to (or even inside) the batt- spring. You would have to take off the tailcap and use your finger or pencil or something to flip the switch. It would only affect the tail led’s, the regular light would function normally.
I’m not completely sure it will work at all, and wouldn’t really serve any purpose if the flashlight has tailcap lockout anyways.
Thanks for putting together a great idea. I just ordered some boards and components, enough make a couple dozen. Now for the long wait for everything to show up.
Oshpark just delivered the boards of my own design, so I went right to work, and decided to post a little more detailed pics of the process.
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Here is the board with the led’s, extra diode, and resistor
Now with the switch added….
Tested that it works….
Nylon retaining ring….
Clear switch cap…
Beautiful!
Here you can see how I have the resistor soldered at the driver. It’s prettier on my other flashlight (because I used a smaller resistor), but this shows how simple it is.
Really dig these illuminated tail switches and I bet they will see widespread use. Is anyone planning on integrating the driver leak resistor into new driver designs? The original thread is good for a laugh since so many people said it was not possible.
Dunno if it’s any help, but I recently spent quite a while searching digikey to find the smallest dip switches. The smallest I could find were about .250” x .140” and .120” tall and are: 1 position, 25mA, 24VDC, SPST, with recessed slider and gullwing contacts.
“dip switch in series with the leak resistor” - that would make it more driver dependable - there are drivers with some leakage current on their own - you would only shut up the resistor part. The switch should be better placed at (in) the tailcap (and is better accessible there).
If I understood the idea correctly, this would also make sense in some lights with lockout possibility. This would just disable the standby signal light and still have the light ready to use and not potentially about to spontaneously fall apart. Using tailcap lockout is sort of the same as removing batteries and storing them in a separate case, excuse my exaggeration here.
Agreed. As this sort of locator light circuit goes through both the driver and tailcap boards, and some drivers may be ready to use in stock config, it makes sense to put any hypothetical switch in the tailcap. Also the accessibility issue would be kinda critical on some hosts. The tailcap is most of the time easily accessible vs. the driver board or other front contact board that often is not.