I got this for home use last year, and its the best 8 euros deal i had( bought it localy)
Modded the build in diodes with Nichias 5000k(5mm, 32k mcd)
I got this for home use last year, and its the best 8 euros deal i had( bought it localy)
Modded the build in diodes with Nichias 5000k(5mm, 32k mcd)
That's a pretty darn nice setup, specially with Nichia's. Like it! Might be worth look'n around for.
Yeah TOm, the lens are glass ones( borosillicate, at least they stated so) the stand is high enough, has a build in 3xAA battery case, came with 220v adapter and a solder iron stand but i removed it
It has 6 emitters in that lamp but the default ones had a huge blue tint
For 8 euros its a great deal, prolly it could be found cheaper in the US( here we have massive taxes and VAT)ā¦but even if it costed 15 i would buy it, i had several āthird handsā bt this one is the best so far
Thanks to Tom E and his embossing gun idea this has been my set up for led reflows and one unsuccessful attempt at a driver build. It works like a dream for me reflowing leds. The helping hands are raised and lowered depending on how quick I want the item to heat up and how hot it gets.
The embossing guns wire clip stand just sits on the ally RHS and the gun removed without effort when not being used.
For anyone in Australia the gun came from Spotlight though compared to Chinese prices was not that cheap. The helping hands came from Jaycar at a real cheap price and have no issues with the magnifying glass that came with it. The small alligator clips are pretty flimsy though the way they are mounted in their holders but do the job. I also use the ally RHS as a spot to sit drivers etc when holding them in the helping hands to stop downward movement when soldering etc.
Oh crap! That's sooo much better than how I do it. Hhmmmm. Maybe I can use those helping hands... I gotta try it that way!
Why so complicated setup m8? I use the oven at 1( after approx 1 minute that plate is exacly at 200deg C) and a Cu plate from an old Athlon heatsink that has that thick Cu plate- never failed me so far, never!
Ahh - nicer than my old beat up frying pan .
My latest FET+1 batch of drivers:
I'm still doing everything with a cheap soldering iron (fail).
Ahh - the soldering iron was bout the only thing I didn't do cheap. Love my Hakko... Still under $100 so you can spend more, but it's rock solid quality, not too many bells/whistles.
Was that a yes or no for a DD Convoy C8? So much to think about, but the battery sounds like a good idea to not go too high. Noctigon XM-L2 in a Convoy C8 should be able to take around 5A for some time I think. And on a related note, is it possible to run 105d firmware on the DD driver MTN is selling?
[quote=Tom E]
The host size for DD is pretty much personal opinions but thereās also a lot of contributing factors:
turbo timeout to run hi/turbo for only limited amt of time, or better yet, temp monitoring
outside temp. - winter outdoors at 20F may be just fine for DD in a thin tube light
battery dependent - donāt want 6A? Ok, run a Pana PF that gives you only 5A max, quote]
Tom is it possible that the panny 18650pf is actually 10A?
Hey guys, Calvin from Illumination Supply here. Weāre a small company based in San Jose, CA who specialize in high powered LED flashlights. Recently since the e-cigarette and vaping scene started, there has been some crossover activity among our flashlight products.
The product listed above is not an IMR but a hybrid chemistry: LiNiCoMnO2. It is the successor to the NCR18650PD battery and can sustain a 10A discharge. Battery purchases in pairs will receive free cases: http://i.imgur.com/n7q75Q9.png
Ronin, it looks like you need to do some reading about forward voltage.
Oops - didn't see these replies til now.
guardior - well if I would do the mod, I would definitely do DD in a UltraFire/Convoy C8. I used to be much more conservative in worrying about high amps, but now, I flipped nearly completely around. I find it hard to go back to 7135 based drivers now.
Here's my reasons:
Hope this helps. Again, it's all personal opinion/usgae, or subject to the target user. Certainly if I were to give/sell a modded high amps or DD light to someone not knowledgeable of the risks and has small kids that will have access to the light, I would be VERY concerned about putting that light in their hands that didn't have temperature monitoring based amp control.
Ronin42 - as RMM mentioned, amp max capabilities of the cell are not obtainable for a DD set up of one cell with one CREE XM-L2. The Vf requirement of the LED will limit the max amps. There's some really good data posted here on BLF showing the Vf levels compared to amps (for example, see post #51 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/19546). The higher the amps, the higher the Vf is, so typical 3.7 Li-Ion cells can't deliver a high enough voltage level to drive a XM-L2 at 10A, or even 8A. Highest I've been able to achieve is ~6.5A.
The highest you're likely to achieve lately is ~5A-5.5A. The new ones usually won't handle much over 6A.
Well, it seems this one ended not that bad, it even has a bit higher max current using U2 1A/U2 than PSMN3R0-30YLD( like 100-200ma)
But it doesnt handle If<50ma
Testing Tom`s ramping firmware atm
As Richards said- like 5.5 amps
Simon`s T6 4C( Convoy electronics) could reach 6.5 though
I "think" the XM-L2 T6 4C's you sell today can go close to 6.5A. Haven't tried a U4 1C yet - have you, or know what they max out at?
I think that the 4C still might be from an older reel. All of the newer bins seem to be have higher forward voltages.
Ahhh - could be. I know Simon's and yours were high amps - maybe both from older reels. The way supplies go, seems like CREE releases different bins in batch's - never seems to be a good selection available at the same time. Still the T5 4C's were older batch's - still got one. The T6 4C's came later, but still could be older than these newer U2 neutrals and U3's/U4's.
Beautiful reflow job!
Any chance you could be talked into posting a picture of a board with the solder paste on it before the reflow? Iām starting to put together boards now and Iām still feeling out how much solder paste should actually be on there. Whatever youāre doing is the way I want to be doing it, it looks great.