New: Noctigon Meteor M43 ; in production New color added: Tan

Agreed, this is the first multi-cell light I’ve been interested in in a long time. Seems like it could stand to be driven a little harder though, if twelve Nichia 219Bs are only producing 4000 lumens (333 lm each). I’m getting 600 lumens per Nichia in another light. … not that I actually use the turbo mode much.

I don’t think I have a use for the Meteor; my SRK and BST-wide both cover my needs pretty well… and for that matter, so do much smaller triple-emitter tube lights. I just want one because it’s cool. It’s like the ZL S6330 I never had… only prettier and brighter.

Nichia on its way.

Interesting to note that according to the specs the xpg dedoming apparently more (slightly) than doubles the throw in these optics and loses around 5% lumens.

The tint on the dedomed XPL looks (and is described as) terrible in the fonarevka review.

If they are V6 2C, then yeah, it's gonna be a green mess. The dedomed 1D XP-G2s look good.

Edit: The dedomed LEDs are 2A tint.

+1 on beamshots for dedomed XPG2

I cant decide between Neutral XPG2 and D-D XPG2!

Which is why I’m leaning towards the dedomed xpg version. If the xpl had a better tint, the choice would have been obvious.
But then again, I can barely see the 1500 lumens difference between the xpl vs the xpg either. So might as well go with the better tint. Looks to be the same brightness anyways haha. And that’s with side by side picture comparision, real life prolly can’t even tell at all.

Or better yet, get the dedomed xpg2 version for noticeably more throw but almost visually just as bright as xpl!

I’m half-tempted to make a Rainbow Meteor. Can’t decide which emitters to use? No problem! Use some of each! :slight_smile:

I knew you would TK! With 12 emitters you should be able to get it exactly where you want it. :wink:

I was thinking about a family Meteor, you know, XP-G2, XM-L2, XP-L, XHP, MT-G2… lol

I’ll play with the S4 2B’s until Nichia get’s the new High CRI 219C ready then I’ll do some swapping. :wink:

The pads are all XP-sized, so I figure some XP-L and XP-G2 and Nichia 219s should make a nice mix. Could go for some bonus colors in XP-E2, but that would make the beam really funky.

This.

I’d also like to see a beamshot of the dedomed XPG2

I've got some more pictures of the light that I'll share here, but tomorrow it's going to DBCStm, then to a few other forum members after that. Dale has a pretty standardized beam setup that will be useful in visually comparing against his many lights that he has tested over the years.

Hy,

come on, RMM. You are the only one with XP-G2 dedomed in the M43 at the moment. So i think many of us would help a tiny little beamshot to see the tint of the dedomed light :wink:

Greetings

Kenjii

Well Dale's lights are monster modified lights, making anything stock pale in comparison, any comparison with any stock lights?

I’ve got a stock flashlight! :stuck_out_tongue: (I think…)

Oh yeah, a direct comparison would be the 12x Showerhead Trustfire light. I removed the XM-L’s in favor of the new XP-E2 Torch but other than that it’s stock and it puts it in direct comparison to the Meteor except for the much higher current of this considerably better built light.

What would you compare it to? I mean, really, it’s 4 triples for crying out loud! I have a new Sunwayman TC40S that’s completely stock, as well as the small Fenix E41. There’s a couple of stock MagLights running around here somewhere, including an old incan. Now THAT would be a joke for sure! lol

Edit: Just remembered I gave my Dad one of the BLF SE Eagle Eye X6’s as well. Also have an ArmyTek Predator fully stock.

You don`t even have a keychain light stock Dale?

I would compare it to the MM15 and ZB S6330, lights that are in the same category.

I guess that is the Goinggear reviewing technique that you are thinking of.

Chibi, even my Core Ti is modified! I bought a nice translucent white opal and inset a purple trit in it, used this to replace the stock button. :slight_smile: And I’ve replaced the emitter with a Nichia. My Ti HF has a hand made and polished Ti reflector and my CU HF now has a 219 Nichia. The Ti HF with zoom head has an XP-L V6 2C.

I don’t have an MM15 or ZB S6330 nor have I even seen one of those.

Is ANYTHING really in the same category as this light? The extensive design implementation with copper top and bottom, thick 3 Oz. traces and that remarkable boost driver with it’s complicated UI is pretty over the top.

And I’ll say it again, the rules say you cannot use white in anodizing aluminum! The die particles are simply too large to fit into the nano-tubes opened in the surface by the anodization process. So how did they get “Stone White” in type III hard anodize?

Yep that is so, the answer should be, it is a commercial name for a light grey, the light it is clearly not white in the true sense of the word, stone also kind of denotes that the white is not white. All photos I have seen so far clearly show light grey not what is considered white.

To me that looks more like what I’ve often heard called “natural” anodized. I have a couple of lights with that finish and its not really white, but rather light grey.

Here’s an example: http://www.laymanslights.venturous.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Sunwayman-M11R-1.jpg

A few size comparisons:

M6 vs. M43


MM15 vs. M43


All Three Side-by-Side. The M43 is very short!

I weighed them all on the same scale, without batteries (batteries will add the same amount of weight in all three, since they all take 4x18650):

  • M6: 15.4 oz; 437 grams
  • MM15: 12.1 oz; 343 grams
  • M43: 12.9 oz; 366 grams
Of note, the MM15 is a bit lighter, but it doesn't have nearly as much copper inside.
The illuminated button. It indicates the battery charge depending on the color. It can be set to be constant on, beacon (flashes intermittently), or can be turned off. This one is much less annoying than the MM15 beacon, which I feel is far too bright.
A few more colors:

The moonlight level is pretty low, considering you are powering 12 emitters. The switch light is always on when the light is turned on, and shows the charge level, as well as indicating mode changes and thermal regulation.
The machining and anodization are first-class, and very consistent throughout the light.
Did I mention that the square cut threads and anodization are first-class?

The tailcap has a nice laser-etched logo. I like that the rest of the light is clean.
Yes, even the spring holder is a copper MCPCB. The screw holes are countersunk.
The other side of that tailcap MCPCB. Here you can see the Beryllium-copper low-resistance springs.
Here is the battery contact side of the driver. The contact surface is thick and shouldn't wear quickly. I didn't take this one apart, since it's my only sample and it is going to be sent to several others for review. There are some pictures of the driver available earlier in this thread.

Here you can see the AR coating's reflection. I can't see any color cast in the LED output, and under most viewing conditions the glass is virtually transparent.
The light thermally regulates and keeps the maximum temperature around 50C on turbo.

This is definitely not a budget light; instead, it is a premium light that is going to duke it out with the best and most expensive the industry has to offer.