Are you using the dual-led pcb? Are the 2 led’s identical to each other? I don’t see a reason why they wouldn’t be the same brightness, because the two led pads are parallel to each other, they should be getting the exact same current. On my most recent one I didn’t use a separate diode at all, I just bridged the D1 pads with some copper braid.
I bought the spacers at Home Depot. They should be available at most hardware stores, it is a 5/16” Nylon Washer.
Number 2 done. Tail end of a triple XP-L DD S6. The picture makes it look brighter than it really is. I used a 2.2k limiting resistor, still less than 1mA draw.
looking good KKW. I’ve found that the resistor value can vary quite dramatically. In my blue and red ones I used 4.7k, and in a green one I had to use 22k to get it dim enough for bedside use.
I don’t know, what it was, but I desoldered the switch and resoldered it (no obvious mistake) and now it works.
Thanks to my lathe I have made a plexy spacer from 2mm material.
FANTASTIC, really!
I have ordered 100 UV LEDs (and 100 each in green, red, blue, orange and white, all 0805), they light up GITD Material (what I use on 90% of my lights… yet :D), so I guess this will look nice.
But I now have 40 of the clear tailcaps and 15 PCBs (9*17mm, 6*20mm) and 16 switches are on their way (received 2 today).
So, I have a lot of work to do
The problem is, that I have my flashlights in the room where I sleep - so I will have to make a plan, which lights I mod…
Which switches did you buy? I have some omten 1217, but I’ve been using omten 1288 because they block less light. It gives a more even appearance through the clear boots, but probably won’t matter with the GITD boots.
The M2 needs 18mm. It wouldn’t be a Problem to use the 17mm, but I want it to fit perfectly
I habe some of these selfchanging RGB Leds, but I don’t think that they would make a nice effect, the colors change too quickly, so you basivally only habe red blue and green….
If you quickly need cheap SMD LEDs, go for the seller I linked in #169 - 9 days for a 12$ order to germany.
I have ordered some parts made out of original Plexyglas - laser’d out of 2mm material by an ebay seller for 1€/each.
15 pieces, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21mm - 3pcs each
It’s likely that I need the smaller ones more often - but hey, I have a lathe and some M8 bolts with nuts, so that’s only a small problem…
Each with a 7.9mm hole which fits perfectly.
WIth Plexy you can go even lower with the current.
I also got the 0805 LEDs - UV doesn’t work, I have used a 1.2k resistor and a 510 Ohm bleeder - but it’s extremely hard to see, so no “lit from inside”-GITD
So let’s see how the others look.
Now you have me thinking about different spacers. I wonder if using colored acrylic would help spread the light/color better than the frosted nylon I was using originally?
I would skip colored ones. Even, say a red ring with a red led, they may actually slightly reduce the light. Filters create color by subtracting other colors. If it is anything less then 100% transmission of the led wavelength then it will reduce the light. With filters to get a particular shade of red (or any color) it may cut some wavelengths of red to less then 100. With clear you can see it’s as near to 100 as possible across the whole spectrum. And colored non-frosted filters won’t provide diffusion.
For adjusting the diffusion of a clear ring you can sand the surface. I would also paint the switch body and side walls white. Perhaps reflective metal foil tape if you have some.
Judged moved my first led tail cap to a solarforce containing this driver and it lights up with out a bleeder resistor. I see what was ment by some drivers having their own leakage.