No preference for me regarding the cutouts for solder balls, so whatever is quickest/easiest. Personally I’ll just cut a bevel or cutout if needed with an xacto blade.
So my request would be for the following:
XHP70 led to fit an SSC-P7 C8 reflector. (either white or black is fine for these)
Quantity: x6
Led Cutout: 7mmx7mm (whatever is your standard for XHP70s)
OD: 12.5mm
Reflector Hole Diameter: 9.25mm
Thickness: 2mm base + ~1mm lip
Notes: Non-continuous lip as shown in your examples. No cutouts for solder balls required, no fancy outer shape, circular is fine.
SBT-70 led to fit KD 86mm reflector (would love it if these could be black if possible)
Quantity: x2
Led Cutout: 11mm x 10mm (rectangular but centered)
OD: 26mm
Reflector Hole Diameter: 19.5mm
Thickness: 1mm base + ~2mm lip
Notes: Continuous circular lip. No cutouts for solder balls required, no fancy outer shape, circular is fine.
XML2 led to fit KD 86mm reflector (again black if possible)
Quantity: x2
Led Cutout: 5mmx5mm (XM-L2 standard)
OD: 26mm
Reflector Hole Diameter: 19.5mm
Thickness: 1mm base + ~2mm lip
Notes: Continuous circular lip. No cutouts for solder balls required, no fancy outer shape, circular is fine.
Hope that’s enough info, if you need clarification on anything let me know.
Cheers and thanks again for offering this, very cool!
Linus
It seems like every time I have to use a butterfly spacer I have to cut more off because the solder pads are under the tabs. A design with the square cut at 45 to the tabs would fill a missing nitch. The 16 mm Sinkpads are my source of angst.
Linus, for your C8 gasket, some of the light will be blocked due to the height and the 120* LED emission angle. I think the best I could do to correct this is use 1/32” stainless steel dowel pins and also put a heavy chamfer on the square pocket. Let me know what you think:
I made the base extra thick to give me a bit of adjustment room regarding focusing of the led. i.e Gives me some leeway in terms of pulling the emitter out of the reflector some ways, I intend to sand them down to a minimum once I’m happy I’ve found a decent compromise between minimizing the donutyness of the hotspot and maximizing output on these particular reflectors.
I wish I could give you some more exact dimensions to fully take advantage of your great service but this will have to do for now.
The dowels are a cool idea but I’m happy just to go with something standard like these
Test cut a couple of the S2+ xp series rings. It seems the process is more forgiving than I thought it would be so I will probably be able to make these out of black acetal (delrin) rather than nylon. :bigsmile: Acetal machines a lot nicer than nylon and should require less deburring effort. I will test the process with acetal shortly.
I usually sand down the centering ring bottom side and then use superglue to prevent it from rotating when tightening reflector/bezel. I also put a tiny-tiny bit of grease on the top edge/lip of centering ring where reflector will sit so that it could slide more easily when I tighten everything up
Hi fellas. I got into a rather large machining job which I had to prioritize and haven’t had time for anything else. I see the light at the end of the tunnel though and will be able to get back to my fun/hobby projects soon. I will update when I cut some of these these from black acetal.
shrick, I’d recommend using acetal (delrin) if you make them manually. It’s doable but not the easiest project for a novice and it will probably take more effort than it’s worth. As for the tiny end mills, you can use a 1/32” 2fl which shouldn’t give you any trouble in acetal. In the square pocket, machine a relief past the corners in one axis to provide clearance, at least the radius of the cutter in length.