D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

I carry this one, so I wanted it bright enough to show off even in a bright room.

lol right? My red one is dim because it’s by my bed 24/7, but the blue one is brighter to get a little more wow factor.

The next one I do will be an S6 with Purple/UV colored led’s

Yep, the 2 LED Version.

I don’t know, what it was, but I desoldered the switch and resoldered it (no obvious mistake) and now it works.

Thanks to my lathe I have made a plexy spacer from 2mm material.

FANTASTIC, really!
I have ordered 100 UV LEDs (and 100 each in green, red, blue, orange and white, all 0805), they light up GITD Material (what I use on 90% of my lights… yet :D), so I guess this will look nice.
But I now have 40 of the clear tailcaps and 15 PCBs (9*17mm, 6*20mm) and 16 switches are on their way (received 2 today).
So, I have a lot of work to do :smiley:

The problem is, that I have my flashlights in the room where I sleep - so I will have to make a plan, which lights I mod…

Wow, you jumped in with both feet!

Which switches did you buy? I have some omten 1217, but I’ve been using omten 1288 because they block less light. It gives a more even appearance through the clear boots, but probably won’t matter with the GITD boots.

Could someone make a 18&19mm 2-LED version?

I have some lights that need a bigger PCB (Convoy C8, M2 - 18mm)…

And maybe a RGB Version with a slow color-fade :smiley:

Haven’t been able to get hold of any nylon washers at the moment so have just drilled holes for the mean time.

Gives an odd affect. Using the 20mm board with dual LEDs.

More red in real life.

What size does your M2 need? I used a 17mm one in mine. I am planning on making a dual-led 17mm board, I’ve just been a little busy lately.

Check these out. I bought some awhile ago, I need to work them into a light soon.

The M2 needs 18mm. It wouldn’t be a Problem to use the 17mm, but I want it to fit perfectly :stuck_out_tongue:

I habe some of these selfchanging RGB Leds, but I don’t think that they would make a nice effect, the colors change too quickly, so you basivally only habe red blue and green….

If you quickly need cheap SMD LEDs, go for the seller I linked in #169 - 9 days for a 12$ order to germany.

I have ordered some parts made out of original Plexyglas - laser’d out of 2mm material by an ebay seller for 1€/each.
15 pieces, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21mm - 3pcs each
It’s likely that I need the smaller ones more often - but hey, I have a lathe and some M8 bolts with nuts, so that’s only a small problem…


Each with a 7.9mm hole which fits perfectly.
WIth Plexy you can go even lower with the current.

I also got the 0805 LEDs - UV doesn’t work, I have used a 1.2k resistor and a 510 Ohm bleeder - but it’s extremely hard to see, so no “lit from inside”-GITD :frowning:
So let’s see how the others look.

Good idea with the plexi! is the middle hole 8mm?

Now you have me thinking about different spacers. I wonder if using colored acrylic would help spread the light/color better than the frosted nylon I was using originally?

I need some of them plexiglass rings :open_mouth:

These are a little thick, but cool looking

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-3-4-x1-8-TATOO-WASHER-NEON-GREEN-Center-HOLE-Acrylic-Circle-Disc-Plexiglass-/391123873656?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b10ccaf78#ht_940wt_954

if you need a whole bunch, check these out

I may need to order some of these! I’ll look into it later this week. I will probably have some left over to shift :slight_smile:

I would skip colored ones. Even, say a red ring with a red led, they may actually slightly reduce the light. Filters create color by subtracting other colors. If it is anything less then 100% transmission of the led wavelength then it will reduce the light. With filters to get a particular shade of red (or any color) it may cut some wavelengths of red to less then 100. With clear you can see it’s as near to 100 as possible across the whole spectrum. And colored non-frosted filters won’t provide diffusion.
For adjusting the diffusion of a clear ring you can sand the surface. I would also paint the switch body and side walls white. Perhaps reflective metal foil tape if you have some.

Judged moved my first led tail cap to a solarforce containing this driver and it lights up with out a bleeder resistor. I see what was ment by some drivers having their own leakage.

I just tried purple led’s and im a little bummed. According to the Vf rating, they should work just like the blue ones do, but no such luck. They don’t produce enough usable light until they get over 3.8v

Has anyone tried this mod on a light with a Q.lite rev A driver with mode memory and an off time cap? I just noticed that this mod appears to make the light next mode memory, I assume because the cap can never discharge. Am I on the right track? If so, do we have any other options, or will this effect be present on any driver that has off-time mode memory?

Did you solder a resistor across the driver? (560 ohm or so , from + to - )