Your thoughts echo mine. I sat it down and compared it side-by-side with every Fenix, Nitecore, Niwalker, Olight, and other premium light I have, and this is as good or better than all of them. I would say that as an overall package, the light is currently unrivaled.
Y’all twistin’ my arm here with all the praises :bigsmile:
How would the stock XP-G2 compare with my just sold Nitecore TM26 XM-L2?. I'm thinking about getting one of these.
The Meteor CW XP-G2…
- is much smaller and lighter
- puts out more lumens (~6900 vs 3500)
- doesn’t throw as far (33.6kcd vs 43kcd, or 366m vs 415m) (unless you get the de-domed version, which throws farther)
- has a 3-color lighted switch instead of OLED display
- costs significantly less
- has a different type of beam pattern due to optics instead of reflectors
- uses a very different (and more flexible) interface
- isn’t a battery charger
- doesn’t trigger thermal step down as quickly as the TM26
- has a regular e-switch instead of a 2-stage switch
I think that mostly covers it.
Not that it matters much, my TM26 was the newer 3800 lumen version. I don't care about the internal battery charger which I never used. I just want something significantly brighter flood wise. Will the Meteor do that with the XP-G2?
Agreed! Please post a beamshot Dale! Pleaaaaase!!! 
Awesome! Thanks for the video. I have been waiting for some sort of footage of the light.
Something ain't right there, I think you mean S3 3D, respectively S4 2B.
Mostly a matter of taste I believe, do you find the UI to bring to you any advantage, then that should make the difference. The higher the lumens the harder to notice the difference.
More lumens + less throw = more flood. So, yes.
If you want it to be a real flooder, you could also get some different optics to swap into it; it’s about $6 for a full set of 4 optics. From throwiest to floodiest, the optics are: 10507, 10511, 10508, 10509. Each produces a wider and smoother beam than the one before it. The Meteor comes with 10507 optics, and you can swap any or all of them pretty easily.
I really like the 10508 for floody lights; it barely has a discernible hotspot and mostly just gets gradually dimmer from the center out to the edge of its 180-degree-wide beam (good for biking). It and the 10509 look very similar to a reflector-based light with a frosted lens, like the Zebralight ‘F’ lights. For throwier lights I like the 10511 — not quite as throwy as the 10507, but it’s much smoother and lacks the 10507’s solar-flare-like corona artifacts.
Thanks for the info guys/gals. I think I'll wait till the reviews and comparison beamshots come out. That being said, I'm very interested!
I’m still trying to figure out if I can afford one… and I have until the XP-G2 3D version comes out to decide. 3D is the sweet spot for pure neutral white in Cree emitters, and this light makes one hell of a nice flooder.
OTOH, I already have a Blackshadow Terminator modded for vivid wide-spectrum color rendition with a floody beam. It’s like a TM26 with a handle. The Meteor is just smaller and brighter and … um … awesome-er.
I’m undecided which one to get.
I’d like to see a beamshot of the 1D dedomed to see if I can stand the tint (I’ve yet to be pleased with any dedomed CREE tint). Unfortunately, so far nobody’s posted a beamshot of that emitter. :weary: 
I don’t really want to spend this kind of money on an emitter with tint I might hate, especially given the complete absence of beamshots. I haven’t even been able to find a beamshot of a dedomed 1D in a different light.
The tint on the de-domed sample is warmish when in lower modes, but pleasantly white at higher levels. I don’t find it distasteful at all.
And it DO get HOT!
Sounds intriguing. Can you post a beamshot? Doesn’t have to be a perfect beamshot. Just enough so I can see the tint.
FWIW, tint is remarkably difficult to show effectively in beam shots. Cameras and monitors simply don’t have the right sensors and emitters to portray tint accurately.
I did the deed and ordered one in stone white with S2 1D’s dedomed. Depending on how easy it is, it may get half dedomed XP-L V6 3C’s after it gets here.
Todays digital sensors are very well capable of showing tint differences, all depends on how you set the camera up for the shot. (Maybe it’s the $8000 sensor , not sure?) And today’s monitors have also come a very long way.
I will try, it’s almost dark and my sample’s cells are almost recharged.
An early observation/question has come to my attention…. the cells are none too tall in the battery tube and I’m wondering if the short phosphor bronze springs are taking some set with heat as Djozz found with his samples. Might it come to be that the cells won’t make contact? Seems like early pictures of this light showed the button top cells slightly protruding, these are slightly below the rim of the tube and I don’t feel like they’re being compressed by the springs very firmly when screwing the light together. They don’t rattle, but they can’t be in there really snug it seems like.
Could anyone give some feedback on this potential issue?