FWIW, tint is remarkably difficult to show effectively in beam shots. Cameras and monitors simply don’t have the right sensors and emitters to portray tint accurately.
I did the deed and ordered one in stone white with S2 1D’s dedomed. Depending on how easy it is, it may get half dedomed XP-L V6 3C’s after it gets here.
Todays digital sensors are very well capable of showing tint differences, all depends on how you set the camera up for the shot. (Maybe it’s the $8000 sensor , not sure?) And today’s monitors have also come a very long way.
I will try, it’s almost dark and my sample’s cells are almost recharged.
An early observation/question has come to my attention…. the cells are none too tall in the battery tube and I’m wondering if the short phosphor bronze springs are taking some set with heat as Djozz found with his samples. Might it come to be that the cells won’t make contact? Seems like early pictures of this light showed the button top cells slightly protruding, these are slightly below the rim of the tube and I don’t feel like they’re being compressed by the springs very firmly when screwing the light together. They don’t rattle, but they can’t be in there really snug it seems like.
Could anyone give some feedback on this potential issue?
They were like that when I first pulled it out of the box. No connection issues with the button top cells. The driver contact protrudes below flush.
Click for larger pic in a new window.
Oh yeah, these pics are with the Canon 20D and 24-105mm f/4 L IS lens. Settings are ISO1600, f/4, 1/8 second exposure. The red oil drum is at 97 yds, lens was at 24mm for the beamshots (or equivalent to about 29mm on a 35mm film camera or full frame sensor)
Those 10 lights use 42 batteries, so all of them are not in their optimum arrangement. lol The Meteor is, with freshly charged HE-2’s. Several of the others that should be kicking some bu… have lesser cells or rested/partially used cells.
thanks!
great pictures!
would you say the S2 1D D-D is a GO!
or why not?
Looks very nice to me and anything less is going to be all flood.
The lumens figures in those pictures was measured in the box right before taking the pics. Those are the real time numbers for the picture you see. So for a light like my Eagle Eye X6 Quad that typically makes some 4500 lumens, tonight it came straight out of my pocket, partially used cells, and was measured then shot.
I purposely did not match up any of the 10 lights, left the photo order pretty random so as not to be misleading. The Nitecore Caveman AA light just came to me today so it’s in there as a first measure and as a stock AA light. Surprisingly tight beam, old XM-L emitter even.
Hi Dale,
What do you judge the Meteor M43's tint to be like?
Thank you,
George
It’s not green, more of a yellow/orange warm at lower power that get’s whiter on the high end. Not a problem to me and definitely better than most XM-L class emitters when de-domed. The XP-G2 seems good in this respect, holding a more pleasant tint when modified.
Thanks for the beamshots Dale.
Awesome job! 
Dale, having the light in hand have you changed your opinion at all about the domed vs. dedomed emitter statements you made earlier?
I like the size and flood output!
This is the XPG2 DD sample obviously? How does it handle the heat? This light lowers the output the hotter it gets right? No thermal stepdown or turbo timer right?
Thanks! I really wanted to see how the Meteor compared to a Terminator, and also wanted to see the driver.
The size and output definitely look nice, but the driver looks like it uses chips I can’t reflash. I was really hoping the MCU would be friendly to reprogramming.
Thanks DB!
There is thermal regulation which will lower the brightness based on 2 temperature thresholds, 50C and 70C (press button Turbo only) according to the manual.
LOLed 