An early observation/question has come to my attention…. the cells are none too tall in the battery tube and I’m wondering if the short phosphor bronze springs are taking some set with heat as Djozz found with his samples. Might it come to be that the cells won’t make contact? Seems like early pictures of this light showed the button top cells slightly protruding, these are slightly below the rim of the tube and I don’t feel like they’re being compressed by the springs very firmly when screwing the light together. They don’t rattle, but they can’t be in there really snug it seems like.
Could anyone give some feedback on this potential issue?
Oh yeah, these pics are with the Canon 20D and 24-105mm f/4 L IS lens. Settings are ISO1600, f/4, 1/8 second exposure. The red oil drum is at 97 yds, lens was at 24mm for the beamshots (or equivalent to about 29mm on a 35mm film camera or full frame sensor)
Those 10 lights use 42 batteries, so all of them are not in their optimum arrangement. lol The Meteor is, with freshly charged HE-2’s. Several of the others that should be kicking some bu… have lesser cells or rested/partially used cells.
Looks very nice to me and anything less is going to be all flood.
The lumens figures in those pictures was measured in the box right before taking the pics. Those are the real time numbers for the picture you see. So for a light like my Eagle Eye X6 Quad that typically makes some 4500 lumens, tonight it came straight out of my pocket, partially used cells, and was measured then shot.
I purposely did not match up any of the 10 lights, left the photo order pretty random so as not to be misleading. The Nitecore Caveman AA light just came to me today so it’s in there as a first measure and as a stock AA light. Surprisingly tight beam, old XM-L emitter even.
It’s not green, more of a yellow/orange warm at lower power that get’s whiter on the high end. Not a problem to me and definitely better than most XM-L class emitters when de-domed. The XP-G2 seems good in this respect, holding a more pleasant tint when modified.
This is the XPG2 DD sample obviously? How does it handle the heat? This light lowers the output the hotter it gets right? No thermal stepdown or turbo timer right?
Thanks! I really wanted to see how the Meteor compared to a Terminator, and also wanted to see the driver.
The size and output definitely look nice, but the driver looks like it uses chips I can’t reflash. I was really hoping the MCU would be friendly to reprogramming.
There is thermal regulation which will lower the brightness based on 2 temperature thresholds, 50C and 70C (press button Turbo only) according to the manual.
Owning various DSLRs and lenses I can tell you that the same scene under the same light condition, preset white balance, etc, you will see for example how one lens favors certain colors more than others. I once had a major problem during a shoot of works of art ( I was using and L lens) where a certain purple color kept showing as almost cyan under natural light at shade.
Sony cameras (like prosumer A6000) even to these days have inaccurate colors that must be post processed. Inaccurate does not mean bad colors to the viewer, I am just saying inaccurate colors. Some will go be infuriate if the red they have chosen for the specific work of art is not absolutely identical to reality, then you explain to them that you TN panel is not suitable for photo viewing, does not go through to them :(
Maybe a bit too detailed, even if you struggle hard, the viewer may have a display that is either bad or either favors certain colors, certain Sony laptops had some weak blue range, and yellow was dominating, several years ago ( real issue not setting could do nothing for them, not even calibration with custom profiles), so even if the user is happy with his IPS display that still is not realistic.
Wow Dale, that’s an impressive collection to compare it to. That Shocker is serious. This will definitely be the brightest light I have when i do my beamshots.
