New: Noctigon Meteor M43 ; in production New color added: Tan

Thanks! I really wanted to see how the Meteor compared to a Terminator, and also wanted to see the driver.

The size and output definitely look nice, but the driver looks like it uses chips I can’t reflash. I was really hoping the MCU would be friendly to reprogramming.

Thanks DB!

There is thermal regulation which will lower the brightness based on 2 temperature thresholds, 50C and 70C (press button Turbo only) according to the manual.

LOLed :smiley:

Owning various DSLRs and lenses I can tell you that the same scene under the same light condition, preset white balance, etc, you will see for example how one lens favors certain colors more than others. I once had a major problem during a shoot of works of art ( I was using and L lens) where a certain purple color kept showing as almost cyan under natural light at shade.

Sony cameras (like prosumer A6000) even to these days have inaccurate colors that must be post processed. Inaccurate does not mean bad colors to the viewer, I am just saying inaccurate colors. Some will go be infuriate if the red they have chosen for the specific work of art is not absolutely identical to reality, then you explain to them that you TN panel is not suitable for photo viewing, does not go through to them :(

Maybe a bit too detailed, even if you struggle hard, the viewer may have a display that is either bad or either favors certain colors, certain Sony laptops had some weak blue range, and yellow was dominating, several years ago ( real issue not setting could do nothing for them, not even calibration with custom profiles), so even if the user is happy with his IPS display that still is not realistic.

Wow Dale, that’s an impressive collection to compare it to. That Shocker is serious. This will definitely be the brightest light I have when i do my beamshots.

It uses ATtiny85V. (info from Fonarevka)

Wow and ouch. That Nitecore EA8 looks like an anemic mini mag incan 2xAA :s

Do you think using different optics would increase the throw? and by how much? or are these the narrow optics already?

With the exception of that Nitecore, all the other lights are heavily modified. This little beast holds it’s own in any company direct from Noctigon! Impressive!

And yes, I have to say the de-domed XP class in this light works quite well. The tint isn’t as pure maybe as a domed emitter would be, but it’s not an issue and the increase in lux is pretty impressive when you look at the shallowness of the TIR. When you pull the battery tube off this thing, you see real quick that it’s almost all battery! The head is half threads, crazy thin up in there! Meticulous detail to get the driver so compact, with the very short sets of 10507’s it’s pretty remarkable.

Can I take the bezel off and pull the optics to see how it works as a 12 emitter mule? :bigsmile: I’d love to see the red Noctigon board and the brilliantly laid out emitters sitting under the well done AR lens, might just have to do that with mine when I get the Nichia’s I’m looking for and forget about it reaching any distance, I want it to illuminate subjects for photography anyway and that’s almost always within 20’.

I really am impressed. Admittedly a bit overwhelmed with the UI but even an old dog can learn a new trick on occasion. (Takes the right Scooby snack)

XP class?

your beamshots show XP-G2
right?

Yes, which is XP class not XM or XHP or MTG or or or

Can I take the bezel off and pull the optics to see how it works as a 12 emitter mule? :bigsmile: I’d love to see the red Noctigon board and the brilliantly laid out emitters sitting under the well done AR lens, might just have to do that with mine when I get the Nichia’s I’m looking for and forget about it reaching any distance, I want it to illuminate subjects for photography anyway and that’s almost always within 20’.

Hi. In your opinion, could a novice take the bezel off and switch the optics to more floody ones (10509)? How are they seated? Thank you for a reply.

I was just confused because the XP-L is in that group also - but a very different emitter…

The XPL breaks the rules. Forgot about that when I mentioned class, sorry.

I took a couple of video’s while looking over the Meteor. I meant to expose the brilliant red Noctigon board in all it’s glory, but, alas, twas not meant to be. :frowning:

I have the vids uploading, in the meantime I will say the expected optics change is not going to be as easy as all that. I should have grabbed a suction cup, prolly would have gotten in. That’s how I roll, day late and a dollar short, when I can remember to show up at all…

Thanks. I see that mentioned in the post, but I don’t see a ATtiny85V in the driver pictures. I wonder how they managed to fit everything onto a chip with only 8 pins? I count 10 (main LEDs, red, green, blue, switch, voltage sensor, thermal sensor, VCC, Ground, Reset). Maybe they got R/G/B all on one pin using a serial interface?

ToyKeeper, it uses mcu internal temp sensor (calibration made on factory), rgb are multiplexed with 2 pins, and uses reset as input pin (yes, it needs HVSP programmer). And you have forgotten about current measurement :slight_smile:
As far as i know, this driver based on Indigo

Okay, thanks. I didn’t know INFERION made the driver. That explains how he had so much information about the driver’s internal workings, and why he responded so negatively about the idea that anyone might want to make changes. :slight_smile:

I usually go with the assumption that there’s no such thing as one-size-fits-all, and try to make it as easy as possible for people to modify things they don’t like. For example, using chips with large pins for easy flashing, sharing all source code, and not requiring a HVSP programmer. It’d be awesome if the Meteor’s code was available and its MCU could be flashed with a SOIC clip, but it seems that’s not the case. Modifying it would require a much bigger investment than a simple nanjg driver.

I couldn’t read the MCU chip markings in the Meteor driver pic, but the Indigo driver (which uses the 85) looks very similar to the Meteor driver.

These large testpads on the PCB are used for programming too, so it should be no problem to connect the hvsp programmer or fuse doctor. Step up drivers are a bit dangerous, because in case of error it can open transistor and short circuit the baterries, that makes big badaboom. This software tested for all kinds of possible and impossible failures, and is very safe. This is the reason, why code is closed, and any changes in sw are not wanted :slight_smile:
And yes, how many industrial devices at home have open source? Sometimes i want to reprogramm my microwave oven too…

GAAAAAAH!!!

Can’t decide which one to get!!! J) J) J)

Brightest hotspot and max throw (XPG2 dedomed) or nice tint (Nichia)