The M2 needs 18mm. It wouldn’t be a Problem to use the 17mm, but I want it to fit perfectly 
I habe some of these selfchanging RGB Leds, but I don’t think that they would make a nice effect, the colors change too quickly, so you basivally only habe red blue and green….
If you quickly need cheap SMD LEDs, go for the seller I linked in #169 - 9 days for a 12$ order to germany.
I have ordered some parts made out of original Plexyglas - laser’d out of 2mm material by an ebay seller for 1€/each.
15 pieces, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21mm - 3pcs each
It’s likely that I need the smaller ones more often - but hey, I have a lathe and some M8 bolts with nuts, so that’s only a small problem…
Each with a 7.9mm hole which fits perfectly.
WIth Plexy you can go even lower with the current.
I also got the 0805 LEDs - UV doesn’t work, I have used a 1.2k resistor and a 510 Ohm bleeder - but it’s extremely hard to see, so no “lit from inside”-GITD 
So let’s see how the others look.
Good idea with the plexi! is the middle hole 8mm?
Now you have me thinking about different spacers. I wonder if using colored acrylic would help spread the light/color better than the frosted nylon I was using originally?
I need some of them plexiglass rings 
These are a little thick, but cool looking
I may need to order some of these! I’ll look into it later this week. I will probably have some left over to shift 
I would skip colored ones. Even, say a red ring with a red led, they may actually slightly reduce the light. Filters create color by subtracting other colors. If it is anything less then 100% transmission of the led wavelength then it will reduce the light. With filters to get a particular shade of red (or any color) it may cut some wavelengths of red to less then 100. With clear you can see it’s as near to 100 as possible across the whole spectrum. And colored non-frosted filters won’t provide diffusion.
For adjusting the diffusion of a clear ring you can sand the surface. I would also paint the switch body and side walls white. Perhaps reflective metal foil tape if you have some.
Judged moved my first led tail cap to a solarforce containing this driver and it lights up with out a bleeder resistor. I see what was ment by some drivers having their own leakage.
I just tried purple led’s and im a little bummed. According to the Vf rating, they should work just like the blue ones do, but no such luck. They don’t produce enough usable light until they get over 3.8v
Has anyone tried this mod on a light with a Q.lite rev A driver with mode memory and an off time cap? I just noticed that this mod appears to make the light next mode memory, I assume because the cap can never discharge. Am I on the right track? If so, do we have any other options, or will this effect be present on any driver that has off-time mode memory?
Did you solder a resistor across the driver? (560 ohm or so , from + to - )
Yup, that’s why I’m thinking it’s the off-time cap being affected.
Just checked, it turns a BLF17DD into next mode memory too.
Try a lower resistance on the driver.
I was having the same problem, but 560ohm worked for me. You may have to go lower though.
You mean a higher value? It’s using a 560 ohm currently.
No, lower value.
Does that cause the caps to drain faster then? Just trying to understand what’s at play causing it.
I’m driving so I can’t really explain right now. Have a look at the original thread linked in the op.