Thanks. I see that mentioned in the post, but I don’t see a ATtiny85V in the driver pictures. I wonder how they managed to fit everything onto a chip with only 8 pins? I count 10 (main LEDs, red, green, blue, switch, voltage sensor, thermal sensor, VCC, Ground, Reset). Maybe they got R/G/B all on one pin using a serial interface?
ToyKeeper, it uses mcu internal temp sensor (calibration made on factory), rgb are multiplexed with 2 pins, and uses reset as input pin (yes, it needs HVSP programmer). And you have forgotten about current measurement 
As far as i know, this driver based on Indigo
Okay, thanks. I didn’t know INFERION made the driver. That explains how he had so much information about the driver’s internal workings, and why he responded so negatively about the idea that anyone might want to make changes.
I usually go with the assumption that there’s no such thing as one-size-fits-all, and try to make it as easy as possible for people to modify things they don’t like. For example, using chips with large pins for easy flashing, sharing all source code, and not requiring a HVSP programmer. It’d be awesome if the Meteor’s code was available and its MCU could be flashed with a SOIC clip, but it seems that’s not the case. Modifying it would require a much bigger investment than a simple nanjg driver.
I couldn’t read the MCU chip markings in the Meteor driver pic, but the Indigo driver (which uses the 85) looks very similar to the Meteor driver.
These large testpads on the PCB are used for programming too, so it should be no problem to connect the hvsp programmer or fuse doctor. Step up drivers are a bit dangerous, because in case of error it can open transistor and short circuit the baterries, that makes big badaboom. This software tested for all kinds of possible and impossible failures, and is very safe. This is the reason, why code is closed, and any changes in sw are not wanted
And yes, how many industrial devices at home have open source? Sometimes i want to reprogramm my microwave oven too…
GAAAAAAH!!!
Can’t decide which one to get!!! J) J) J)
Brightest hotspot and max throw (XPG2 dedomed) or nice tint (Nichia)
Who was crazy enough to give Dale an Exacto Knife
Your commentary was hilarious.
Which hammer?
Chibi, the LFH didn’t work and I couldn’t find the BFH so I put it back together. I DID put the bezel on it without the lens and bang it on the table face down for some Kinetic energy action but that too failed to dislodge anything. Oh well, at least no animals were harmed in the making of that video.
2nd Vid is getting close, it’s the more informative of the two.
Oh, and Hank informed me that one leg of each optic is glued to the mcpcb. So, had I gone with Automotive grade 3M double sided tape or a suction cup I probably would have succeeded. So much for a simple optic change. BUT, if you’re going to put a more diffuse or wide angle optic in, damaging the one that’s there is no big deal. Drill a hole in it, screw a screw in the hole, grab the screw with vice grips and give it a good old fashioned dentist’s tug. Hank doesn’t care what you tear up, you’ve paid for it to get that far and he can always make more. 
Hmm...you already forgot where you put the hammer? Hmm ;)
Kidding aside,are these optics the narrow ones? (More throw), medium or wide (don't even know if they exist )
These are the Carclo 10507, the narrowest. Richard got this one in XP-G2 S2 1D and de-domed. It’s the highest throw combination available in this light.
Thanks Dale!!
can that combination be topped in the next few weeks?
big throw with more Lumens and better tint (NW)?
if not likely I might have to buy now
it really looks like they did they’re homework on these choices, that’s probably about as good as it’s going to get.
I’m curious about domed XP-L’s under modified optics, but that’s really the only shot at matching beating output and tint, but it wouldn’t be likely to throw further and it might be prone to quite a few artifacts, depending on the type of use… some scenes would make artifacts more visible than others and thereby more bothersome.
XP-G2 S4 3D or 3A maybe? Domed for tint purity so less throw. Difficult to get throw from a 10mm optic in the first place, so the 70Kcd is probably as high as it’s gonna get.
thanks Dale!
I think I go for the dedomed G2 for now (also good for the initial costs)
… I am sure some guys will do some “adjustments” and led mixing. that’s a option for the future
where is the XP-L2 with 30% moar lumenZ?
INFERION advises dont touch firmware flashlight. Its level is much higher than of amateur. When not working correctly can be bad consequences. BigBadaBoom
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thanks dale, stunning pictures. very much appreciated. im glad i chose the dedomed version last week, as im sure more people will be choosing that one after seeing your pictures.
Nice video Dale.
You mean beryllium copper springs, not phosphor bronze.