GAAAAAAH!!!
Can’t decide which one to get!!! J) J) J)
Brightest hotspot and max throw (XPG2 dedomed) or nice tint (Nichia)
Who was crazy enough to give Dale an Exacto Knife
Your commentary was hilarious.
Which hammer?
Chibi, the LFH didn’t work and I couldn’t find the BFH so I put it back together. I DID put the bezel on it without the lens and bang it on the table face down for some Kinetic energy action but that too failed to dislodge anything. Oh well, at least no animals were harmed in the making of that video.
2nd Vid is getting close, it’s the more informative of the two. 
Oh, and Hank informed me that one leg of each optic is glued to the mcpcb. So, had I gone with Automotive grade 3M double sided tape or a suction cup I probably would have succeeded. So much for a simple optic change. BUT, if you’re going to put a more diffuse or wide angle optic in, damaging the one that’s there is no big deal. Drill a hole in it, screw a screw in the hole, grab the screw with vice grips and give it a good old fashioned dentist’s tug. Hank doesn’t care what you tear up, you’ve paid for it to get that far and he can always make more. 
Hmm...you already forgot where you put the hammer? Hmm ;)
Kidding aside,are these optics the narrow ones? (More throw), medium or wide (don't even know if they exist )
These are the Carclo 10507, the narrowest. Richard got this one in XP-G2 S2 1D and de-domed. It’s the highest throw combination available in this light.
Thanks Dale!!
can that combination be topped in the next few weeks?
big throw with more Lumens and better tint (NW)?
if not likely I might have to buy now
it really looks like they did they’re homework on these choices, that’s probably about as good as it’s going to get.
I’m curious about domed XP-L’s under modified optics, but that’s really the only shot at matching beating output and tint, but it wouldn’t be likely to throw further and it might be prone to quite a few artifacts, depending on the type of use… some scenes would make artifacts more visible than others and thereby more bothersome.
XP-G2 S4 3D or 3A maybe? Domed for tint purity so less throw. Difficult to get throw from a 10mm optic in the first place, so the 70Kcd is probably as high as it’s gonna get.
thanks Dale!
I think I go for the dedomed G2 for now (also good for the initial costs)
… I am sure some guys will do some “adjustments” and led mixing. that’s a option for the future
where is the XP-L2 with 30% moar lumenZ?
INFERION advises dont touch firmware flashlight. Its level is much higher than of amateur. When not working correctly can be bad consequences. BigBadaBoom
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thanks dale, stunning pictures. very much appreciated. im glad i chose the dedomed version last week, as im sure more people will be choosing that one after seeing your pictures.
Nice video Dale.
You mean beryllium copper springs, not phosphor bronze.
Thanks, Dale! Very nice!
Inferion says, to change the optics you should shake flashlight… Optics are possibly “glued” with thermal grease - maybe duct tape can help to remove the optics… One, Two
Inferion say…. at first I see Inferion talking down to ToyKeeper, what a joke! ToyKeeper is far from an amateur and is the most likely candidate I know of to improve the UI of the Meteor. Or Apple or pretty much anything as far as I can see. Brilliant code writer.
Then Inferion say… shake the flashlight to remove the optics. Yeah, right, ok. I said, in the video, that one leg is glued. You saw me beat it hard into my hand, what you didn’t see was between the 2 video’s I put the bezel on with no lens and used Kinetic energy on the table to no good result. (For those that might not know, Kinetic energy is the force of a moving object that makes it keep moving when it’s host is suddenly stopped. This is how a bullet is disassembled. I’ve done that many times, from .38 Special to .454 Casull to .50 BMG.)
Hank confirmed that one leg is glued to the mcpcb. Shaking the light is a silly vain attempt and not the least bit likely to work.
3 strikes and you’re out Inferion, any more bright ideas?
Coming across rude, I know, and I do apologize for that, but insulting a brilliant mind with comments about amateur attempts is not exactly polite in and of itself. And I have to go on record here to say I do not like the UI of the Meteor. It’s overly complicated, not intuitive and downright difficult to use in real world scenario’s. If ToyKeeper can fix this, I’ll send her mine to do so. As far as I’m concerned, the UI is this lights Achilles Heel. I simply love the design and build quality as well as the concept of making a small compact light do big things. That success is applauded in a standing ovation.
Since I don’t have my own Meteor as yet I am not sure about it’s usage. I can say though that as much as I love the light itself, the UI will be likely to keep it on the shelf collecting dust. If it pans out that way, I am not above tearing it apart and stripping the driver, modifying the light myself to do what I want it to do. I know I’m the amateur Inferion is referring to, and I wouldn’t mess with the boost driver at all. I’d be more prone to take an iron to it and remove all the components to piggyback in a BLF FET driver, one with TK’s firmware on it. With the upcoming Nichia 219C on board, THEN I’d be a happy camper.
I will try to learn the complicated UI, because I like what Hank has done here. There are features that I really do like a lot, the RGB button indicating charge level being one of those. All that blinky stuff is not for me. My memory issues do not allow me to keep up with really complicated geometry’s, mostly a medical issue that is not likely to be improving as I head toward 60 yrs old. But I will try. I really do appreciate the lengths gone to on this light, and apologize for stepping on toes with my opinionated self. But hey, it is what it is. I can only call em like I see em.
(having any mode called Tactical on a light that blinks at every turn is kind of dangerous, no? Every touch of the button brings identification to your location, Tactical strobe being difficult enough to find as to make it easy to get shot. Seems odd to me, hope I can remember to reach for a different light when I hear something go bump in the night.)
All said, still very much looking forward to my own white/black combination M43. I’ll find a way to make it work for me, one way or another.
Done
sorry, i dont know about what - first sample on Fonarevka was not glued.
If you mean button blinks - it can be disabled.
So, as i know, Hank & Co are still open for changes in FW!
And yes, Inferion works with tiny monster flashlights already very long time, maybe it is worth to give a try for this unusual UI, which was developed for years for so kind of flashlights? As i know, UI1 designed mostly by Hank, and UI3 is original Inferion FW.
Every press of the button causes the emitters to flash. If you’re clicking 6 times to lock it out, you get 6 quick flashes. If you’re pressing 6 times to unlock it, again 6 flashes. If you’re changing group level and pressing 11 times, you guessed, 11 flashes from the emitters.
Every click of the button produces a flash of light.
The worst thing for me is that it’s not linear in function One click turns it on Moon/Low. How do you go to Medium from there? Turn it off, then click it twice. No, wait, that’s high. Medium has to be backed into from Moon/Low?
“Ramping” is a term used in the manual, but this is not traditional, only moving through the 7 possible modes.
I have ToyKeepers ramping firmware in some of my larger more powerful lights (and a few small ones as well) and there are 64 places feasible to stop at. Moon to Turbo takes 2 seconds. And it reverses at will. I guess I’m spoiled and stuck in my ways.
I’ll have to wait now to play with my own Meteor, the sample is on it’s way to next-in-line.
You are wrong. 7 possible modes is step rumping. If you want continuous ramping, please, hold button for 2 seconds at the end positions of ramping (turbo or moon) and youll get ramping without steps.
I use this UI for a long time and as for me it’s excellent for the powerful light like the Meteor. Of course for a 10W EDC flashlight you need much simpler UI. But when you have 70+W flashlight the UI3 is very useful.