New: Noctigon Meteor M43 ; in production New color added: Tan

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ChibiM
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Do you think using different optics would increase the throw? and by how much? or are these the narrow optics already?

DB Custom
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With the exception of that Nitecore, all the other lights are heavily modified. This little beast holds it’s own in any company direct from Noctigon! Impressive!

And yes, I have to say the de-domed XP class in this light works quite well. The tint isn’t as pure maybe as a domed emitter would be, but it’s not an issue and the increase in lux is pretty impressive when you look at the shallowness of the TIR. When you pull the battery tube off this thing, you see real quick that it’s almost all battery! The head is half threads, crazy thin up in there! Meticulous detail to get the driver so compact, with the very short sets of 10507’s it’s pretty remarkable.

Can I take the bezel off and pull the optics to see how it works as a 12 emitter mule? :bigsmile: I’d love to see the red Noctigon board and the brilliantly laid out emitters sitting under the well done AR lens, might just have to do that with mine when I get the Nichia’s I’m looking for and forget about it reaching any distance, I want it to illuminate subjects for photography anyway and that’s almost always within 20’.

I really am impressed. Admittedly a bit overwhelmed with the UI but even an old dog can learn a new trick on occasion. (Takes the right Scooby snack)

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XP class?

your beamshots show XP-G2
right?

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DB Custom
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Yes, which is XP class not XM or XHP or MTG or or or

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Can I take the bezel off and pull the optics to see how it works as a 12 emitter mule? :bigsmile: I’d love to see the red Noctigon board and the brilliantly laid out emitters sitting under the well done AR lens, might just have to do that with mine when I get the Nichia’s I’m looking for and forget about it reaching any distance, I want it to illuminate subjects for photography anyway and that’s almost always within 20’.

Hi. In your opinion, could a novice take the bezel off and switch the optics to more floody ones (10509)? How are they seated? Thank you for a reply.

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I was just confused because the XP-L is in that group also – but a very different emitter…

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DB Custom
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The XPL breaks the rules. Forgot about that when I mentioned class, sorry.

I took a couple of video’s while looking over the Meteor. I meant to expose the brilliant red Noctigon board in all it’s glory, but, alas, twas not meant to be. Sad

I have the vids uploading, in the meantime I will say the expected optics change is not going to be as easy as all that. I should have grabbed a suction cup, prolly would have gotten in. That’s how I roll, day late and a dollar short, when I can remember to show up at all…

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maksoff wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
but the driver looks like it uses chips I can’t reflash. I was really hoping the MCU would be friendly to reprogramming.

It uses ATtiny85V. (info from Fonarevka)

Thanks. I see that mentioned in the post, but I don’t see a ATtiny85V in the driver pictures. I wonder how they managed to fit everything onto a chip with only 8 pins? I count 10 (main LEDs, red, green, blue, switch, voltage sensor, thermal sensor, VCC, Ground, Reset). Maybe they got R/G/B all on one pin using a serial interface?
maksoff
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ToyKeeper, it uses mcu internal temp sensor (calibration made on factory), rgb are multiplexed with 2 pins, and uses reset as input pin (yes, it needs HVSP programmer). And you have forgotten about current measurement Smile
As far as i know, this driver based on Indigo

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maksoff wrote:
ToyKeeper, it uses mcu internal temp sensor (calibration made on factory), rgb are multiplexed with 2 pins, and uses reset as input pin (yes, it needs HVSP programmer). And you have forgotten about current measurement Smile
As far as i know, this driver based on Indigo

Okay, thanks. I didn’t know INFERION made the driver. That explains how he had so much information about the driver’s internal workings, and why he responded so negatively about the idea that anyone might want to make changes. Smile

I usually go with the assumption that there’s no such thing as one-size-fits-all, and try to make it as easy as possible for people to modify things they don’t like. For example, using chips with large pins for easy flashing, sharing all source code, and not requiring a HVSP programmer. It’d be awesome if the Meteor’s code was available and its MCU could be flashed with a SOIC clip, but it seems that’s not the case. Modifying it would require a much bigger investment than a simple nanjg driver.

I couldn’t read the MCU chip markings in the Meteor driver pic, but the Indigo driver (which uses the 85) looks very similar to the Meteor driver.

maksoff
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ToyKeeper wrote:

I usually go with the assumption that there’s no such thing as one-size-fits-all, and try to make it as easy as possible for people to modify things they don’t like. For example, using chips with large pins for easy flashing, sharing all source code, and not requiring a HVSP programmer. It’d be awesome if the Meteor’s code was available and its MCU could be flashed with a SOIC clip, but it seems that’s not the case. Modifying it would require a much bigger investment than a simple nanjg driver.

These large testpads on the PCB are used for programming too, so it should be no problem to connect the hvsp programmer or fuse doctor. Step up drivers are a bit dangerous, because in case of error it can open transistor and short circuit the baterries, that makes big badaboom. This software tested for all kinds of possible and impossible failures, and is very safe. This is the reason, why code is closed, and any changes in sw are not wanted Smile
And yes, how many industrial devices at home have open source? Sometimes i want to reprogramm my microwave oven too…
Firelight2
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GAAAAAAH!!!!

Can’t decide which one to get!!!! J) J) J)

Brightest hotspot and max throw (XPG2 dedomed) or nice tint (Nichia)

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unknown00101
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Who was crazy enough to give Dale an Exacto Knife Silly

Your commentary was hilarious.

ChibiM
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Which hammer?

DB Custom
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Chibi, the LFH didn’t work and I couldn’t find the BFH so I put it back together. I DID put the bezel on it without the lens and bang it on the table face down for some Kinetic energy action but that too failed to dislodge anything. Oh well, at least no animals were harmed in the making of that video.

2nd Vid is getting close, it’s the more informative of the two. Smile

Oh, and Hank informed me that one leg of each optic is glued to the mcpcb. So, had I gone with Automotive grade 3M double sided tape or a suction cup I probably would have succeeded. So much for a simple optic change. BUT, if you’re going to put a more diffuse or wide angle optic in, damaging the one that’s there is no big deal. Drill a hole in it, screw a screw in the hole, grab the screw with vice grips and give it a good old fashioned dentist’s tug. Hank doesn’t care what you tear up, you’ve paid for it to get that far and he can always make more. Wink

ChibiM
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Hmm...you already forgot where you put the hammer? Hmm Wink

Kidding aside,are these optics the narrow ones? (More throw), medium or wide (don't even know if they exist )

DB Custom
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These are the Carclo 10507, the narrowest. Richard got this one in XP-G2 S2 1D and de-domed. It’s the highest throw combination available in this light.

ChibiM
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Thanks Dale!!

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can that combination be topped in the next few weeks?

big throw with more Lumens and better tint (NW)?

if not likely I might have to buy now

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it really looks like they did they’re homework on these choices, that’s probably about as good as it’s going to get.

I’m curious about domed XP-L’s under modified optics, but that’s really the only shot at matching beating output and tint, but it wouldn’t be likely to throw further and it might be prone to quite a few artifacts, depending on the type of use… some scenes would make artifacts more visible than others and thereby more bothersome.

XP-G2 S4 3D or 3A maybe? Domed for tint purity so less throw. Difficult to get throw from a 10mm optic in the first place, so the 70Kcd is probably as high as it’s gonna get.

M4D M4X
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thanks Dale!

I think I go for the dedomed G2 for now (also good for the initial costs)

… I am sure some guys will do some “adjustments” and led mixing. that’s a option for the future Wink
where is the XP-L2 with 30% moar lumenZ?

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Thanks! I really wanted to see how the Meteor compared to a Terminator, and also wanted to see the driver.

The size and output definitely look nice, but the driver looks like it uses chips I can’t reflash. I was really hoping the MCU would be friendly to reprogramming.

INFERION advises dont touch firmware flashlight. Its level is much higher than of amateur. When not working correctly can be bad consequences. BigBadaBoom Smile
1
2

DB Custom
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thanks dale, stunning pictures. very much appreciated. im glad i chose the dedomed version last week, as im sure more people will be choosing that one after seeing your pictures.

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DBCstm wrote:

Nice video Dale.
You mean beryllium copper springs, not phosphor bronze.

maksoff
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Thanks, Dale! Very nice!

Inferion says, to change the optics you should shake flashlight… Optics are possibly “glued” with thermal grease – maybe duct tape can help to remove the optics.. One, Two

DB Custom
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Inferion say…. at first I see Inferion talking down to ToyKeeper, what a joke! ToyKeeper is far from an amateur and is the most likely candidate I know of to improve the UI of the Meteor. Or Apple or pretty much anything as far as I can see. Brilliant code writer.

Then Inferion say… shake the flashlight to remove the optics. Yeah, right, ok. I said, in the video, that one leg is glued. You saw me beat it hard into my hand, what you didn’t see was between the 2 video’s I put the bezel on with no lens and used Kinetic energy on the table to no good result. (For those that might not know, Kinetic energy is the force of a moving object that makes it keep moving when it’s host is suddenly stopped. This is how a bullet is disassembled. I’ve done that many times, from .38 Special to .454 Casull to .50 BMG.)

Hank confirmed that one leg is glued to the mcpcb. Shaking the light is a silly vain attempt and not the least bit likely to work.

3 strikes and you’re out Inferion, any more bright ideas?

Coming across rude, I know, and I do apologize for that, but insulting a brilliant mind with comments about amateur attempts is not exactly polite in and of itself. And I have to go on record here to say I do not like the UI of the Meteor. It’s overly complicated, not intuitive and downright difficult to use in real world scenario’s. If ToyKeeper can fix this, I’ll send her mine to do so. As far as I’m concerned, the UI is this lights Achilles Heel. I simply love the design and build quality as well as the concept of making a small compact light do big things. That success is applauded in a standing ovation.

Since I don’t have my own Meteor as yet I am not sure about it’s usage. I can say though that as much as I love the light itself, the UI will be likely to keep it on the shelf collecting dust. If it pans out that way, I am not above tearing it apart and stripping the driver, modifying the light myself to do what I want it to do. I know I’m the amateur Inferion is referring to, and I wouldn’t mess with the boost driver at all. I’d be more prone to take an iron to it and remove all the components to piggyback in a BLF FET driver, one with TK’s firmware on it. With the upcoming Nichia 219C on board, THEN I’d be a happy camper. Wink

I will try to learn the complicated UI, because I like what Hank has done here. There are features that I really do like a lot, the RGB button indicating charge level being one of those. All that blinky stuff is not for me. My memory issues do not allow me to keep up with really complicated geometry’s, mostly a medical issue that is not likely to be improving as I head toward 60 yrs old. But I will try. I really do appreciate the lengths gone to on this light, and apologize for stepping on toes with my opinionated self. But hey, it is what it is. I can only call em like I see em.

(having any mode called Tactical on a light that blinks at every turn is kind of dangerous, no? Every touch of the button brings identification to your location, Tactical strobe being difficult enough to find as to make it easy to get shot. Seems odd to me, hope I can remember to reach for a different light when I hear something go bump in the night.)

All said, still very much looking forward to my own white/black combination M43. I’ll find a way to make it work for me, one way or another. Wink

Done

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DBCstm wrote:
Hank confirmed that one leg is glued to the mcpcb.

sorry, i dont know about what – first sample on Fonarevka was not glued.

DBCstm wrote:
(having any mode called Tactical on a light that blinks at every turn is kind of dangerous, no? Every touch of the button brings identification to your location, Tactical strobe being difficult enough to find as to make it easy to get shot. Seems odd to me, hope I can remember to reach for a different light when I hear something go bump in the night.)

If you mean button blinks – it can be disabled.

So, as i know, Hank & Co are still open for changes in FW!
And yes, Inferion works with tiny monster flashlights already very long time, maybe it is worth to give a try for this unusual UI, which was developed for years for so kind of flashlights? As i know, UI1 designed mostly by Hank, and UI3 is original Inferion FW.

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Every press of the button causes the emitters to flash. If you’re clicking 6 times to lock it out, you get 6 quick flashes. If you’re pressing 6 times to unlock it, again 6 flashes. If you’re changing group level and pressing 11 times, you guessed, 11 flashes from the emitters.

Every click of the button produces a flash of light.

The worst thing for me is that it’s not linear in function One click turns it on Moon/Low. How do you go to Medium from there? Turn it off, then click it twice. No, wait, that’s high. Medium has to be backed into from Moon/Low?

“Ramping” is a term used in the manual, but this is not traditional, only moving through the 7 possible modes.

I have ToyKeepers ramping firmware in some of my larger more powerful lights (and a few small ones as well) and there are 64 places feasible to stop at. Moon to Turbo takes 2 seconds. And it reverses at will. I guess I’m spoiled and stuck in my ways.

I’ll have to wait now to play with my own Meteor, the sample is on it’s way to next-in-line.

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