To me that looks more appealing than the jm35. What is the beam profile like?
do you have more info about the driver you used?
I dunno if its my luck or anything, but back in 2013 i bought SHADOW JM26 from FT….and wasnt that happy, i could see the PWM in lower modes, the body had minor scratches and the reflector came kinda dusty( you know how hard is to manage reflectors)…and as far as i can remember it was 55$+
Currently i am using Y3 with LD1 driver as my offhand torch for hunting, got also modded MTG2 with a single 26650 and that Aliexpress driver
Also Dale, did you have to modify the reflector?
Dale, I am also interested in the driver you used. Do you have a source?
These are the same “monster” driver for TR-J 12/18 back then
The driver is the one for the DQG Tiny, the triple with 26650 that’s so small. They sell it separately. I did have to remove the e-switch and swap it over I think, as the new driver didn’t come with one installed.
I merely cut a small place for the corners of the larger die substrate, removing the very minimum from the reflector base. After the XHP-70’s came out, I put one of those in this light in place of the MT-G2.
My JM26 is nice, very well finished and clean as a whistle. I like it’s style, am still thinking about putting a kill switch in the tail for lockout as it DOES have a drain that will sap the big cell over time.
My memory is worse than I realized, checking my order history with CNQG I ordered that light and driver on Christmas Day last year. 
It is a 2A boost driver ( meaning MT-G2 will get 2A output at 6V from 3.6-4.2V input source). So of course it is is not a 6A boost output as the title implies, I guess it was specified/targeted towards people who are are not familiar with step up and step down drivers, but with linear drivers. But well, I am talking only based on specs, I mean what makes the specs accurate? only testing the output current for various LED voltages 6V, 9V, 12V.
It is 2A(*3) on turbo. Designed to give 2 amps to each emitter on a triple setup. So it will give 6 amps to a single emitter in turbo mode give or take.
Am I way off here? Seeing some of Dale’s flashlights, I seriously doubt he would settle for 2A in a Xhp70
Yes you are way off, see what I wrote above.
I just took a current reading with a Gold King Kong 4000mAh cell and got 2.67A. I don’t think I did anything to bump the output, but that’s asking a lot of my memory if I did that 5 months ago.
Usually that’s correct, I wouldn’t settle for that low of a current. But if the light impresses me and it’s difficult to repair or place the driver then I tend to play it safe and just enjoy the light. I’ve got plenty of hot rods and dragsters, sometimes it’s nice to just have a smooth ride. 
Output current reading, or input (a.k.a. tailcap), Dale?
Nice. Looks more comfortable to hold but it’s a tad bit larger, so maybe a bit less pocket-able:
JM35: 130mm x 55mm (length x head)
JM26: 142mm x 63.5mm
EDIT: Who sells the DQG tiny driver? And did you have to mod the driver in any way? you posted answers while I was typing!
hmmmm
if the 3 original LEDs are switched in parallel and get each 2A then the driver delivers 6A… (at 4V)
if they are in series it just boosts the Voltage up to 12V to get 2A over the led
am I right?
Yes you are, but a boost driver cannot work with LEDs that need less voltage that the cell has (LED in parallel, for that you need linear drivers or certain buck drivers)
According to the specs, it’s a 6A driver.
“3. Turbo mode up to 6A, 1250 lumens”
If my cell were fully charged it would probably be very close to 3A on the XHP-70, which of course is a 6V emitter, so that would be the equivalent of a 6A current to a 3V emitter, right?
Regardless, it works, and with a single cell to what is otherwise a dual cell emitter. So it’s magical, special, unique, and a winner. Beat the dead horse if you will, it’s not ALWAYS about maximum output. (I said that? really? I better go lay down for awhile….)
The original DQG Tiny Triple XP-G2 is wired in series, making the emitters need 9.xxV to run. And this is done through the single 26650 cell by this very large and complicated driver.
Edit: Sorry, I see what you did there. The boost driver has to push current to emitters that need a higher voltage than the power supply, hence “boost”. This is why they’re wired in series. Got it.
3V* 6A = 18W (parallel LEDs)
9V* 2A = 18W (series LEDs)
Same amount of power, which is all that matters.
It's boost driver, so you need to measure the output current of the driver, as the input need to be higher, because you have 6V at the LED but the input is 4.2V so the driver needs to use extra current to boost the voltage, thus input current is higher than output current on a boost driver. So that is why it is totally unlike a direct drive circuit or a linear circuit.