UPDATE: I have successfully performed the mods as outlined in the previously mentioned blog. The results seems to be a very usable budget tool.
Unit (SI858D) was $42.99 (free shipping from California) from Amazon. Mod parts consist of a ATMEGA168PA ($3.45), one 1 ohm 1% 0805 resistor ($0.27 each, I bought 10), a piece of wire/heat shrink tube (free from parts bin), and a 1.2k half watt through hole resistor (free from parts bin, did not have/could not find a 1k or 1.1k). Total was around $50 - $51 (with estimated taxes and shipping on components, I ordered some other stuff as well). Only changes I made are that I did not use the Oshpark breakout board so I ran the fan sense wire to pin 1 of the unused J5 connector.
EDIT: Github location of authors files
I used file “2014-12-07_commit-a18f02c4ATmega168-8MHz-RC-oscFUSES-0xE2-0xDD-0xFD_V1.33-WDT.hex” with fuses L: 0xE2 H: 0xDD E: 0x05
I am excited to try this to re-flow an emitter on a noctagon, I think it will be much better then using my iron. I do not think the fan current sense mod is absolutely necessary. Adding current sense is better then the existing voltage sense, but it still would not be able to detect a stalled fan. I believe the author of this mod referred to this and was looking into adding commutation detection, but I am unsure if he is still going to look into it.
Just to let you guys know: I will probably not add the commutation sensing for the BLDC fan motor. I do have a prototype for it, but it is a bit fiddly, needs proper adjusting (preferably with a scope) and is not absolutely necessary.
I think the device is usable and reasonably safe as far as over-temperature shutdown is concerned.
Yep, I found out about these and bought two and firmware modded them both. They are nothing short of miraculous now. Veyr fast and easy to use. No worries about it overheating. Just clean power and heat with accurate readings.
I'm thinking of selling my second one that I have for a backup.. In a box as new complete. Except for the new Atmel chip programmed and installed with the new firmware..
Are any of these mods possible , or even useful , for a Yihua 858 with nobs on .I bought mine last year on Ali , code on the rear;YH-CE2007031-812 (2007?).
I guess I’ll just have to try using my wife’s old griddle (that mysteriously disappeared from the kitchen ) and a 110v burner/hot plate to reflow my leds.
I took off the front of the analogue 858.
The phone camera isn’t great , but the ic in the middle is a Texas Instruments LM324 , not an Atmel Mega.
On the other side of the board , it is marked YH858BDV3 so analogue version 3 , and from what I understand , people are upgrading the digital board version 6.In reality , it is working fine , the limiting factors are my skills.Thanks for looking anyway.
I sold my original 858D station from Yihua (that uses an incompatible Samsung processor) and bought a Youyue (with the rev 6 PCB). Flashed the DIY firmware into a mega328 chip (it was compiled for a mega168) and it works fine. I think I’ll mod the code to be able to display temps in degrees F…
I just received my YOUYUE 858D+ and the behaviour was a bit strange. After a bit of research on the net, I found this. Upgrade the firmware is the way to go!!
When I opened it i noticed that it comes with ATmega8 on a ver 6 (20140415). DO I need to change to a ATmega168 in order to use the custom firmware, or I just re-compile ? If a new micro processor ATmega168 (or atmega328 woudl have any advantage?) is needed, which model should I get ?
All I did was follow the instructions exactly. It took several resets to get it to start working. I forget which chip I used, I think it was the 168. If you use a different chip(328) you must make certain all of the pin registers are in the correct place. I decided to keep the old firmware on the old chip that way if something went wrong at least I could put the old chip back in. Yes, use a new chip(168) and keep the old one just in case. Be prepared for it to not work correctly right away. The eeprom needs to be internally loaded with operating parameters from the board itself. When you get ready to start it for the first time PM me. And start with the fan setting in mid position. Your board has the exact same date code as mine.
Mine had a ’168 chip on it. I just programmed the replacement firmware HEX file into a ’328 (I had them handy). I did not recompile it. It worked just fine. The ’328s that I had had the fuses set up for a crystal oscillator. I had to kludge up my programming adapter with a crystal in order to reprogram them to use the internal oscillator.
Yes, but ’328s can’t. You can only program them via ISP or a parallel programming mode that requires a bunch of wires. I have an STK500 that can do it, but way more trouble than cramming a crystal into the zif socket of the adapter.
.I bought mine last year on Ali , code on the rear;YH-CE2007031-812 (2007?).
) and a 110v burner/hot plate to reflow my leds.
