What is a X6 clone? I never heard of that before & with a 22mm driver, where are they available?
I bought them on closeout a while ago from a company here in the US, so I don't know where you can get them now. They are unmarked and have a pretty decent build quality.
5A is fine for my use - planning on driving a de-domed XP-G2 - on single cells, just can't get any amps out of them - Vf is way too high. So the 2 cell buck might be ideal.
Ok, and because you use your buck driver in it, i assume they are a X6 clone but with a 2 battery body. So are you going sell some of those in your shop soon?
They sound like an interesting candidate for a XHP build for example 
No, I am not going to sell them. I can't get these anymore because they were a closeout item. I bought them to use as some test lights. I would use an L3 before these because it takes 26650s.
Yeah I know. I poofed a few on the Super Driver remember? But I have some oldy but goody xml2’ U2’s that work. What about the XPL’s, they should do fine?
Added the 22mm boards to the OP.
Ordered the 22's - now I just got to figure out parts.
Just an update on the 4-layer 17mm board: Ran it in my UF-1405 for about an hour straight on high at 5.5A with no step down and it didn't die, so it is probably about ready to be released. I'll probably clean up a few things on it then release it. Measuring the MAX and FET with a thermocouple it is obvious that the 4-layer board conducts the heat away from the critical components better than the 2-layer board.
So is this a new board just for higher current or a replacement for the 4A one too?
Sweet. How much more $ does the 4-layer board run at Osh? Other than the board, is it the same components that you have listed on mtn?
The 4-layer board is twice the price of the 2-layer. The components are almost the same, but there are two diodes instead of one, and an extra capacitor (which could be left blank if you only run it at around 3A-4A anyways).
Please excuse my ignorance. Richard, you said the 17mm 4-layer board did much better thermally. Are you going to make a 4-layer board for the 22mm design, or is it good enough at 2 layers? Are you going to be selling them at your store, and a parts kit as well? I’ve never built a driver before, so I don’t have any components lying around. Of course, I’d love to be able to buy the driver built and flashed with guppydrv, actually. I don’t know anything about OSHPark either. I just now registered with them and took a look around because I really want this 22mm buck driver!
Since these use attiny13 as an MCU I’m assuming that means that modes are made from PWM. I don’t know if that line of reasoning is valid (probably not, haha). Now that you’re selling these I want to know.
Also, what is the lowest low that the prebuilt 17mm design could do? If it indeed uses PWM, some info on limitations (frequency, duty cycle, etc.) for those of us interested in have custom modes programmed would be great. Thanks in advance, I know you’re a wicked busy guy!
One last thing, I know the voltage range for the prebuilt ones you’re selling spans 5-15V. What happens at say, 4.9V, if you programmed no LV warning? I ask because possibility of CR123a use is appealing.
Yes, the modes are PWM based on the buck IC, which can be up to 20 KHz on the input (We are running ~19KHz).
The moonlight level can be very low (The MAX16820 has a great dimming ratio).
At around 4.5V the buck IC will simply shut off. CR123s would only be useful in lower output scenarios since they are pretty current limited.
Would someone be willing to build me some of these in 22mm and flash the MCU with 3 or 4 mode levels plus hidden strobe? I need specifically a 22mm buck driver pushing right at 3A from 2S li-ion cells into parallel emitters, with a few modes plus (hidden) strobe. Richard has the 22mm driver listed at his site, but listed as out-of-stock. Plus, the only UI option he has listed that includes strobe is guppydrv, and it has no LVP. I really need the LVP, but I want strobe available, too. In fact, TK’s biking strobe/beacon that keeps the power to the emitter turned on at a low/mid level, with spikes into turbo, would be cool to have. I will have plenty of height in the pill for the external inductor. So… anyone wanna give it a shot?
David - I just got in 3 of the 22 mm PCB's in from OSHPark. I could order the parts kit from RMM, but I'm not clear on the LVP option - there is no order option, but in the description, it lists an option for no LVP, 2 cell, or 3 cell. So, I'm confused... Not sure if he means the option is implemented in the firmware, or required something different in the parts list... Just not sure, dunno...
How many do you need? In theory, I can get/or have the boards, order the parts kits from Richard and program them myself with firmware of my choosing for you. Just not sure bout that listed LVP option in the description.
I think LVP is in firmware. Richard has the driver listed with 4 firmware options. Only the guppydrv option doesn’t have LVP. The other firmwares have the option of ~6V for 2S and ~9V for 3S support. Right now, I’d like to get a couple to try out. (I learned long ago to always get one extra to break/lose/burn/whatever.)
Hey guys, I hope nobody is really invested in the 20mm boards. 
They work great at lower currents, but if you try and get 4A+ out of it they bug out. I screwed up on the layout and need to redesign some things. So far the 17mm and 22mm are solid and I have been using them pushed hard in a few of my personal lights, as have several others, but the 20mm needs to be tweaked.
In short: if you have plans to built a high-power 20mm driver, hold off.
On a positive note, if you want a solid 5A 17mm driver, the 4-layer PCB has been running great for me. I've been running it for a few weeks now and have built a few and they are all working great.
Great news about the 4-layer board. Is there a reason you haven’t shared the Osh link for that one?