For sale : LD-2 and LD-M2 driver (Updated)

Is it possible to get 7amp resistors? How much are the NTC sensors? Thanks!

cabfrank, it’s added so you’ll have 5 modes with the added moon.
And the lower modes will be more efficient with the exception of moon, as I understand it, because it will be influenced by the level of the cells voltage and reduce as the cell drains… which is actually good due to the fact that it will gradually dim as the battery dies instead of suddenly shutting down.

Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.

Thanks Dale!

No,this driver, just like LD-1, has 3 "main" modes (120mA,1.2A,6A),and you can enable/disable moonlight(~10mA on fresh battery,drops to few mA with nearly empty battery) in "sofware",so moonlight is 4th mode.Of course you must add/solder additional moonlight parts(one resistor and small NMOS transistor) if you want moonlight to work.In "factory" setting moonlight is disabled.

I'll order today(farnell) some resistors for various current settings,from 5-12A. For currents lower than 4A max. it's better to change shunt value first(for some hardware reasons),and then if necessary fine adjust current with small max. current set resistor.So,I can do 3A max.

NTC resistors are included by default with every driver.

Well,there are few options:

1.I can ship just "standard" drivers,and you can buy all extra parts required from digikey,mouser,etc.(parts aren't secret-0603 154Ohm resistor+any sot-323 NMOS like NX3008 for moonlight,and two 0402 750kOhm resistors+MCP6H01 op-amp or similar for 2S configuration);there are two sub-options in that case-you can send drivers+parts to each member unsoldered,or if you have enough skills,you can solder those extra parts(for some fee) and send complete drivers. Idea of buying parts in USA is,maybe you can save few extra bucks.

2.I can ship standard drivers+all DIY parts

3.I can ship modded drivers with required parts soldered for those who want that,and standard drivers+DIY parts for those who want that option.

First and second option is easiest for me,and I can ship drivers relatively quickly.Third option would require some more time,depending on how many drivers should be modded(that means few days of shipping delay).

Although I will be ordering just boards and kits I realize that many others would rather such small and important parts come pre installed so they only need stress over springs and led wires. For the sake of a GB I think we’ll need to wait for actual mods to be done by you before shipment since I won’t have the time to do more than sort/repackage/repost the order. I appreciate you ordering resistors for other max output currents as a few have specified other than 6,9,12A on some of their drivers.

One question I have is how to wire the NTC for remote temp sensing. I see two solder points but not what they get wired to. Just want to make sure that any who want this feature can order any necessary parts ahead of their boards.

NTC should be connected(with wires of course) just like in picture in LD-2 info thread,that's it.

So, just so I understand, with the moonlight mod soldered in it will be 4 mode, and without that option, it is 3 mode. Is that right? And the moonlight soldered in has no effect on maximum brightness on high? Sorry I don’t understand these things better, but I appreciate the info. Thanks.

paypal sent :slight_smile:

Yes,but when you solder moonlight parts,driver won't "recognize" that automatically,you must enable moonlight mode in UI.Moonlight is independent of other modes.

Thank you. So it is 3 mode, and a half press of the switch will enable moonlight, I guess.

Not half press,how to enable/disable moonlight is described in info thread(when flashlight is in low mode,wait for 120sec until very short blink appears;then if you half or full press the switch within 2seconds after that blink,you'll enable/disable moonlight).

Perfect, thank you!

I would like 2 with all the extra parts.

Ronin, if you’re asking about forward and reverse clicky’s then yes, the driver won’t know the difference as it’s simply a break in the electrical connection.

A light like the Convoy L4 has a tail clicky as well as an electronic switch. This driver will turn on/off with the clicky, like it’s a cut-out for safety, and the electronic switch will enable you to use the different UI’s that otherwise aren’t available. A Sunwayman T40Cs is another, or a Fenix TK22…but I’ll warn you that most lights equipped with both switch styles are somewhat of a pain to change the driver.

Edit: An excellent way to use this with both switches would be a light like the Courui D01 “Big Head”. Swap the driver and mount a cut off clicky in the tail cap. Then you have safety if carrying in a backpack or such and the easy use of a side e-switch. :wink:

One of the things i really like about this driver is the thermal regulation. I see that dozz tested it and it worked well, but I don’t see the external temperature thermister included as an accessory. Is this something that will be supported with this release ?

See post 78, ntc resistors are included by default

Got it, thanks. My limited electronics brain didn’t realize a NTC resistor was the same thing as a thermister :slight_smile: