Great build as always, can't wait to see it finished.
Correct me if I'm wrong but this looks like protection circuit board (PCB), not a battery management system (BMS). This should work in charging mode but only with that charger that You bought that has a end cut-off voltage. BMS would work with any power supply with correct voltage. Hope You can provide status of every single cell in this battery pack after a few charging and discharging cycles. That would be very interesting.
PCM, but from what I read, besides balance charging, it also manages output, so that no one cell is getting very low. If one cell is lower, it “supposedly” balances the power to the other cells, but that may just be my lack of knowledge. I certainly don’t have a clue about these boards.
Every time i see a new flashlight build by OL a popcorn comes to my mind
About this boost converter does it give constant current ? i had used converter like it called qskj also bought it from aliexpress and it was working perfectly
Justin, I didn’t know until I was looking at it on the PCT the other day: this CXA3590 takes over 42V to reach its highest rated current draw! But, it starts at ~35V on the bottom end. That is a HUGE jump! If a person wanted to, they could use 10X 18650 or 26650 cells with a DD/FET driver (assuming the driver can handle up to ~42V input/output) to power one of these. I know that’s not what you’re doing with this light, but maybe the other CXA3590 could be powered this way?
You definitely need to add a fan… my salad bowl light from your earlier build contest has similar drive levels (and a much bigger heatsink area). Without the fan, it will melt into a slag heap in short order. The speed of the fan on mine is temperature controlled via a temp sensor epoxied to the corner of the Bridgelux “chip”.
I have played with adding a remote drive level pot to those DC-DC converters. It does not work very well. At certain settings the output goes unstable.
This will be sweet. Not just the aluminum construction but have never seen one of those emitters in action.
Your converter looked oddly familiar... and it's the exact same kind that I've been abusing in a flooder project. Just IMO it felt easier to adjust using only the current limit pot by having the open circuit voltage set a few volts higher than necessary, and never touching the voltage trim again. This would of course be risky if you were to use an outside knob to later adjust the current during operation. In theory the voltage adjustment trim(that would not need access from the outside) is perfect to set the upper limit after the maximum usable current has been determined... but I don't know how reliable that is during power up if the current happens to be set too high(afraid of momentary overload and catastrophic failure).
Keeping the input voltage close to the output must be good for efficiency, but might limit your EDC's moonlight mode possibilities. Won't the emitter dimly light up in direct drive with that pack, so shouldn't the boost converter just "fall out of regulation" at some point making a lower limit? Haven't really tried that either(I'm working with lower input voltage). Looking at your video it seems you might have found out, but I failed to notice in case it was there.