Oshpark Projects

Like this for a SupFire M6:

Could you add these to the list?

Triple Cree XP solder paste stencil $2.49 Designed for Noctigon XP Triple MCPCB .
Cree XM & XP solder paste stencil $2.48
Roche F6 or X3 DD driver with battery status leds
17mm board for Omten TS1273G1 12mm switch

Helios - That Roche F6 driver also seems to apply to the Roche AS31 as well. I got an AS31 and measured it out and seems to be a perfect fit, though the color LED's are not accomodated in the housing. Also the Roche F6 you can buy today seems to be under the Convoy label, and also has no holes for viewing the color LED's.

I built up one "Convoy" F6 already with this driver and it came out great! Problems were more with the host - the SS tail just cannot stay in. Also the F6 tailcap springs are uncoated steel - impervious to solder, so very difficult to wire bypass that spring.

Please provide the BLF thread links and parts list for the OP listing as well. I'm planning on building up a few more of these driver - Great Job by you and TK on this driver!!

I’ll add these after work this evening.

I just got what I thought was a nice email from Oshpark which I've copied some of it here.

Hi MrsDnf!

Your boards are being made as you read this!

We've sent the panel containing your boards to the fabricator. We expect to get them back around June 21st.

In case you're interested, there are 110 other orders on the panel along with yours, adding up to a total of 648 boards. Neat eh?

Order Details

Ordered on June 10th 2015.

Paid on June 10th 2015 via paypal.

Items PD68 Lighted Switch copy

0.80x0.80 inch (20.27x20.27 mm) 2 layer board.

The panel your boards are assigned to has been sent to the fab. We'll let you know as soon as they're back.

Thanks for the added projects Helios. I, for one, definitely appreciate the 20mm triple. A quad stencil for the larger 31-2 mm Noctogon boards would also be nice to go with all the EEX6 builds.

I like those emails… mine are coming back from fab on the 19th and the 25th, but they are 4 layer panels. I’ve noticed they sometimes have slightly different dates.

It just makes it seem like they have enthusiasm and enjoy what they are doing. Neat aye. We cant have to much of that.

+1. Oshpark has been great to work with and even though I could get boards made slightly cheaper overseas, their customer service is top notch and they've always been very helpful. In my opinion they're a company worth supporting.

Thanks.
I banged out a XP32 noctigon stencil.
You might notice the zip file is named 3x XP 31mm :frowning: but it is for the XP32 & the outline is 32mm (not that the outline matters much for stencils). I’d reupload… but then I’d also want to take new screenshots. And I already spent some time fighting with oshpark’s automated design verifier. Forgot it demands bottom silkscreen, :~
plus bottom soldermask, :frowning:
plus a drill. :expressionless: Even if you’re not using the bottom.
Still oshpark is the best, don’t get me wrong. :smiley:

Thanks Tom.
I never made a thread for the Ferrero Rocher DD driver. :ghost: I actually never even built one myself. Comfychair was looking for a Roche F6 DD driver & before I knew it, I started making one. Made me a little crazy in the end because of constraints I myself imposed upon the design. 0805 parts instead of 0603, two leds & mostly one sided (couldn’t ram it all into totally one sided). Didn’t mention the driver till it was nearly done.

Honestly the indicator leds don’t seem that useful to me. Since the window is/was on the back, you can’t see it while using the light. We already had LVP in firmware plus Toykeeper now made a battery check function for all lights. But the original Roche F6 had a indicator window! Didn’t want my driver to be missing something.

I think Comfy made a thread that has a parts list.
Your SS tail, I’d try a little epoxy just on one side of the SS tail. Let dry then file the epoxy till the tail fits in tightly. Spring does need to go!

If you need more than a few boards and/or your boards are largeish, try gojgo.com They are in China and Ted Chen speaks excellent english. I actually get boards from them faster than from OSHPARK using their DHL 3-day option (8 days from order to arrival). For some 4x6” boards their prices were around 1/10th what OSHPARK would have been. You can send them Eagle .BRD files instead of Gerbers. They also have excellent prices on stainless steel solder paste stencils.

Found a fitting driver, could it be this is not in the OP list?

[WIP] 6v-LED TK35 clone driver thing: for TK35 and ‘friends’

It is slightly smaller then the original driver, but should fit.

Quick (I hope) question:

I am trying to simply shrink my lighted tailcap board down to 17mm from 20mm. I haven’t messed with Eagle in awhile and I feel like I’ve forgot everything. I was able to change the radius of my milling layer, but I need to move the pads in further. For the life of me, I can’t ‘select’ the pads to move them. I can move the vias and everything else without problem, just not those pads. When I created the board, I used a template for an 0805 cap to get the pad spacing right instead of drawing them freehand. Maybe that has something to do with it?

Is your top origin and bottom origin layer active? It displays a thin black “x” or “” at the center of a component. The is what you click to move it.

Also the “x” should be actually oriented as a +. When it is oriented as an x that means the part is locked in position and must be unlocked before it can be moved.

No they were not…

Thanks for making me look dumb :bigsmile:

All is well now

Not at all!
I’ve done that too!

Instead of locking parts, I often just turn off origins when I’m doing traces and don’t want to accidentally shift a component.

Ok, one more thing. Is there any way I can tell Eagle to just trim off everything outside the milling circle? Or do I manually need to remove all of that? Or will Oshpark be fine if I make the milling circle huge (thick) to cover all of the overflow?

Anything outside the board (milling) will be trimmed by oshpark. It’s best to keep the milling line very thin. Otherwise there can be the question of if you intend them to mill the middle of the line or inside edge. I’ve used 0.001mm, though that’s overkill a bit. With ground rings I always have some outside of the milling and I let it be trimmed by oshpark.

Jon here from HomemadeTools.net.

I know this thread is an old one, but thanks for the mention :slight_smile:

To celebrate our 20,000th homemade tool, we made a new ebook featuring our top 50 homemade tools. You guys are welcome to it for free:

http://download.homemadetools.net/50MustReadTools.pdf