Thanks for the added projects Helios. I, for one, definitely appreciate the 20mm triple. A quad stencil for the larger 31-2 mm Noctogon boards would also be nice to go with all the EEX6 builds.
I like those emailsā¦ mine are coming back from fab on the 19th and the 25th, but they are 4 layer panels. Iāve noticed they sometimes have slightly different dates.
+1. Oshpark has been great to work with and even though I could get boards made slightly cheaper overseas, their customer service is top notch and they've always been very helpful. In my opinion they're a company worth supporting.
Thanks.
I banged out a XP32 noctigon stencil.
You might notice the zip file is named 3x XP 31mm but it is for the XP32 & the outline is 32mm (not that the outline matters much for stencils). Iād reuploadā¦ but then Iād also want to take new screenshots. And I already spent some time fighting with oshparkās automated design verifier. Forgot it demands bottom silkscreen, :~
plus bottom soldermask,
plus a drill. Even if youāre not using the bottom.
Still oshpark is the best, donāt get me wrong.
Thanks Tom.
I never made a thread for the Ferrero Rocher DD driver. I actually never even built one myself. Comfychair was looking for a Roche F6 DD driver & before I knew it, I started making one. Made me a little crazy in the end because of constraints I myself imposed upon the design. 0805 parts instead of 0603, two leds & mostly one sided (couldnāt ram it all into totally one sided). Didnāt mention the driver till it was nearly done.
Honestly the indicator leds donāt seem that useful to me. Since the window is/was on the back, you canāt see it while using the light. We already had LVP in firmware plus Toykeeper now made a battery check function for all lights. But the original Roche F6 had a indicator window! Didnāt want my driver to be missing something.
I think Comfy made a thread that has a parts list.
Your SS tail, Iād try a little epoxy just on one side of the SS tail. Let dry then file the epoxy till the tail fits in tightly. Spring does need to go!
If you need more than a few boards and/or your boards are largeish, try gojgo.com They are in China and Ted Chen speaks excellent english. I actually get boards from them faster than from OSHPARK using their DHL 3-day option (8 days from order to arrival). For some 4x6ā boards their prices were around 1/10th what OSHPARK would have been. You can send them Eagle .BRD files instead of Gerbers. They also have excellent prices on stainless steel solder paste stencils.
I am trying to simply shrink my lighted tailcap board down to 17mm from 20mm. I havenāt messed with Eagle in awhile and I feel like Iāve forgot everything. I was able to change the radius of my milling layer, but I need to move the pads in further. For the life of me, I canāt āselectā the pads to move them. I can move the vias and everything else without problem, just not those pads. When I created the board, I used a template for an 0805 cap to get the pad spacing right instead of drawing them freehand. Maybe that has something to do with it?
Is your top origin and bottom origin layer active? It displays a thin black āxā or āā at the center of a component. The is what you click to move it.
Also the āxā should be actually oriented as a +. When it is oriented as an x that means the part is locked in position and must be unlocked before it can be moved.
Ok, one more thing. Is there any way I can tell Eagle to just trim off everything outside the milling circle? Or do I manually need to remove all of that? Or will Oshpark be fine if I make the milling circle huge (thick) to cover all of the overflow?
Anything outside the board (milling) will be trimmed by oshpark. Itās best to keep the milling line very thin. Otherwise there can be the question of if you intend them to mill the middle of the line or inside edge. Iāve used 0.001mm, though thatās overkill a bit. With ground rings I always have some outside of the milling and I let it be trimmed by oshpark.
Definitely some tidying up to do. I noticed some of CKās links no longer work and I know there are boards out that are not listed. As I said in the op Iām reluctant to go mining for this stuff so thanks for posting Rich.