Oshpark Projects

Thanks for the added projects Helios. I, for one, definitely appreciate the 20mm triple. A quad stencil for the larger 31-2 mm Noctogon boards would also be nice to go with all the EEX6 builds.

I like those emailsā€¦ mine are coming back from fab on the 19th and the 25th, but they are 4 layer panels. Iā€™ve noticed they sometimes have slightly different dates.

It just makes it seem like they have enthusiasm and enjoy what they are doing. Neat aye. We cant have to much of that.

+1. Oshpark has been great to work with and even though I could get boards made slightly cheaper overseas, their customer service is top notch and they've always been very helpful. In my opinion they're a company worth supporting.

Thanks.
I banged out a XP32 noctigon stencil.
You might notice the zip file is named 3x XP 31mm :frowning: but it is for the XP32 & the outline is 32mm (not that the outline matters much for stencils). Iā€™d reuploadā€¦ but then Iā€™d also want to take new screenshots. And I already spent some time fighting with oshparkā€™s automated design verifier. Forgot it demands bottom silkscreen, :~
plus bottom soldermask, :frowning:
plus a drill. :expressionless: Even if youā€™re not using the bottom.
Still oshpark is the best, donā€™t get me wrong. :smiley:

Thanks Tom.
I never made a thread for the Ferrero Rocher DD driver. :ghost: I actually never even built one myself. Comfychair was looking for a Roche F6 DD driver & before I knew it, I started making one. Made me a little crazy in the end because of constraints I myself imposed upon the design. 0805 parts instead of 0603, two leds & mostly one sided (couldnā€™t ram it all into totally one sided). Didnā€™t mention the driver till it was nearly done.

Honestly the indicator leds donā€™t seem that useful to me. Since the window is/was on the back, you canā€™t see it while using the light. We already had LVP in firmware plus Toykeeper now made a battery check function for all lights. But the original Roche F6 had a indicator window! Didnā€™t want my driver to be missing something.

I think Comfy made a thread that has a parts list.
Your SS tail, Iā€™d try a little epoxy just on one side of the SS tail. Let dry then file the epoxy till the tail fits in tightly. Spring does need to go!

If you need more than a few boards and/or your boards are largeish, try gojgo.com They are in China and Ted Chen speaks excellent english. I actually get boards from them faster than from OSHPARK using their DHL 3-day option (8 days from order to arrival). For some 4x6ā€ boards their prices were around 1/10th what OSHPARK would have been. You can send them Eagle .BRD files instead of Gerbers. They also have excellent prices on stainless steel solder paste stencils.

Found a fitting driver, could it be this is not in the OP list?

[WIP] 6v-LED TK35 clone driver thing: for TK35 and ā€˜friendsā€™

It is slightly smaller then the original driver, but should fit.

Quick (I hope) question:

I am trying to simply shrink my lighted tailcap board down to 17mm from 20mm. I havenā€™t messed with Eagle in awhile and I feel like Iā€™ve forgot everything. I was able to change the radius of my milling layer, but I need to move the pads in further. For the life of me, I canā€™t ā€˜selectā€™ the pads to move them. I can move the vias and everything else without problem, just not those pads. When I created the board, I used a template for an 0805 cap to get the pad spacing right instead of drawing them freehand. Maybe that has something to do with it?

Is your top origin and bottom origin layer active? It displays a thin black ā€œxā€ or ā€œā€ at the center of a component. The is what you click to move it.

Also the ā€œxā€ should be actually oriented as a +. When it is oriented as an x that means the part is locked in position and must be unlocked before it can be moved.

No they were notā€¦

Thanks for making me look dumb :bigsmile:

All is well now

Not at all!
Iā€™ve done that too!

Instead of locking parts, I often just turn off origins when Iā€™m doing traces and donā€™t want to accidentally shift a component.

Ok, one more thing. Is there any way I can tell Eagle to just trim off everything outside the milling circle? Or do I manually need to remove all of that? Or will Oshpark be fine if I make the milling circle huge (thick) to cover all of the overflow?

Anything outside the board (milling) will be trimmed by oshpark. Itā€™s best to keep the milling line very thin. Otherwise there can be the question of if you intend them to mill the middle of the line or inside edge. Iā€™ve used 0.001mm, though thatā€™s overkill a bit. With ground rings I always have some outside of the milling and I let it be trimmed by oshpark.

Jon here from HomemadeTools.net.

I know this thread is an old one, but thanks for the mention :slight_smile:

To celebrate our 20,000th homemade tool, we made a new ebook featuring our top 50 homemade tools. You guys are welcome to it for free:

http://download.homemadetools.net/50MustReadTools.pdf

A few more revisions to this great 17mm 7135 driver. Oshpark link.

The latest revision of the Moonlight Special driver. Original design by Mattaus, original firmware by JonnyC, modification and testing by RMM.

V3 Changes:

  • Added OTC Capacitor Pad
  • Cleaned Up and Deleted Outdated Pads
  • Fixed Silkscreen Alignments
  • Widened 7135 Pads for Easier Reflow & Chip Stacking
  • Even Beefier Traces and More Vias! (More POWER!)
  • Improved Edge Clearance
  • Pin 3 to Ground Connection Now Does Not Require Bridging to Edge of Driver (Just Solder Over The Circle)

Components:

  • MCU: attiny13a-SSU
  • C1: 10uF 10V+ 0603 or 0805
  • OTC: 1uF 0805
  • 7135 Regulators
  • R1: 19.1k 0603
  • R2: 4.7k 0603
  • D1: SOD-323 Schottky Diode

Definitely some tidying up to do. I noticed some of CKā€™s links no longer work and I know there are boards out that are not listed. As I said in the op Iā€™m reluctant to go mining for this stuff so thanks for posting Rich.

A few updates to this great driver originally designed by Mattaus and others here I'm sure. Oshpark link.

  • Added a single 7135 (ML) controlled by a secondary PWM channel (Pin 5)
  • Added an LDO option for 2S momentary use (LD2981 / MIC5235 / LT1761 / TS5205)
  • Changed voltage divider feed to Batt+ so that LVP with 2S+ cells can work
  • Changed ā€œstarā€ designations to MCU pin designations
  • Wider 7135 pads for easier soldering
  • Slightly changed location and diameter of through-hole vias for easier use

^

As always. Great looking board.

Is there a different place that offers a service similar to Oshpark (low prices, low minimum order), but can do a thinner pcb? Osh works great for drivers, but for the lighted tailcaps sometimes space is very tight.