9-9 Updated in OP. 2nd Group Buy of Lumintop SD10 (SD4A)

Yes - Special Edition. :wink: I couldn’t remember if the Lumintop had that designation, but I know the EagleEye X6 did, and I like it! :bigsmile:

I’m interested in one. Thanks

Edit - XHP50 would be nice!

Missed the first round. Interested in this one.

Subscribed.

Interested Fix the problems that the first one had. Not impressed with the HXP50 ,better
the MT-G2 or a XML the driver from the DQG tiny will run a MT-G2 Lose the BLF logo
use the REYLIGHT logo Raylight Limited edition in script superimposed over a dragon? or a
Unicorn. Think about it, its time you became a custom brand.
allthumbs

Moonlight mode that lasts forever, well spaced modes, decent high output on Eneloops and lithium batteries, ability to run on D cell, decent regulation, PWM not visible, neutral tint.

Im interested in this light, just dont make it too expensive, lets keep it BLF :)!

I’d be interested as I didn’t partake in the first one. Think it needs to perform on li-ion though. Why else would you have such a huge light? And some descent tint. Truly don’t understand why ‘premium’ flashlights continue to only offer CW.

TBH I personally think a well driven XP-G2 would be nice. Make for a good pocket thrower.

I would want one. I was sad that I had to miss out on the first batch.

Wish list:

1. MT-G2 (nice Neutral White tint)

2. Well spaced modes

3. Better 4xAA battery carrier

I still think a 3D tint Lumintop SD10 would be the cat’s meow. I’m impressed with the tint of my Convoy C8 with a XP-L V6 3D. It’s just gorgeous.

Also reverse polarity protection should be a must. I’d hate for the wife to stick a battery in backwards and fry the driver.

interested. keep us updated.
thank you

Lots of people love moonlight. I use the moon for that, LOL. Don't care about moonlight.

As far as 6V leds, I would say no, to a multi battery type light. Yes, you can use a boost driver, to use one Li-ion, but boost drivers eat power from the cell much faster than a linear one would. To get 5 amps @ 6+ volts from a 3.7V battery, you would suck out about 8 amps from the cell, I bet. Not long life there. I would rather have an XP-L Hi @ 5 amps and a linear 7135 driver, or FET driver. 4XAA is fine, but not for high amp draws. Yes, eneloops will draw high amps, but they will not do it near as well as Li-ion and not in any stock battery carrier. It would have to be a low resistance carrier to do any good. I would favor a well made 4AA series holder, (no springs in it. Spring clips made of Nickel silver or another non-helical spring method), Also, a 4x14500 parallel holder and better clearance in the body. 32650 to 26650 adapter tube, 26650 to 18650 adapter tube, Holster.

+1,000,000

If you give it a FET driver with a way to drive red+green indicator LEDs under the button (like the Ferrero Rocher driver), I have three firmwares which would work on it. One is even based on the Baton, like the previous edition of this light… though I prefer either of the other two. My favorite one provides a smooth, fast, reversible ramping UI with instant access to min, max, or mem from off.

Just an idea, if you want to use it.

:heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: :heart_eyes: Great idea! Let’s get a TK firmware into this thing! But, one of the coolest things about the Lumintop SD10 is that it can run on several different cell sizes and types. I don’t want to change that. If we can get all the benefits of the first one, plus fixing the moon issue, plus changing the 18650 to 32650 adapter out for a 18650 to 26650 and a 26650 to 32650, plus adding a TK firmware, it would be awesome! And, if we could get the highest bin XM-L2 or XP-L, that would be really sweet!

+1

I have one from first generation fried. I accidentally put the 3AA adapter reversed, in the dark.

Now, in my BLF SD10, I use this DIY

With all of the battery options and the moonlight mode, I thought that this was supposed to be the household’s emergency light.

What kind of emergency light is so vulnerable, that as your wife goes to get it and put in the batteries in the dark, it is killed, because the batteries went in backwards?

…and then zombies come and kill you because you have no light to shine on them and scare them away :D!

I don’t understand why manufacturers don’t just build drivers in such a way that no matter how the cells go in, the light works flawlessly! Is that so hard?

The reason, as I understand, is that rectifiers cause voltage loss

My electronics knowledge is limited. Back in the good old days I used to mod CB radios and do minor repairs like replace the protection diodes when they hooked up their radio backwards so I could have some beer money. :beer:

Can’t the driver circuit at least have something like that so all we need to do is replace a surface mount diode and have a working light again?