Here goes…
The 3rd Annual Flashlight Building Contest is upon us again 
The contest main topic is here: >> Closed: 3rd Annual BLF Scratch Made Light Contest
First, i would like to mention i almost have all the parts needed to build a “replica” of last year’s 1st place winner for the Scratch Build category, for a prize offer for this years Machine Built Category. The light will be very close to the original, and include the Glow-Light with side lantern, but some parts may not be exactly the same as it may be near impossible to find all the exact same old plumbing parts. I will begin work on that light ASAP. I thought about creating a separate thread for it, but in reality the original Build-Thread for the original is much the same as this one will be.
- Found here: >> DBSAR - The 2nd. Annual BLF Scratch Made Light Contest Entry / UPDATE -June 27th, more photos
Last year I was honored to see the Steam Pipe Light do so well in the contest, (A light i still use quite often & glows every night on my night table)
This year i been thinking of what i could build for this years contest, and after rummaging through my Garage, Sheds, Basement, i kept eying the shiny boxes of Brass, stainless & Aluminum parts, the bins of wire, electronics, components, bits of steel, aluminum, copper, old regulators, gauges, switches, parts, the list goes on. I sat on the bench stool with a beer and began to think. At first i was running out of ideas, but after looking at a box of old recovered Solar panels from old garden LED lights, and a box of old Coleman lantern and stove parts…light bulbs began coming on my my mind… (well LED bulbs atleast.
Below are some photos of the vast boxes of random parts & pieces that may become something very unusual, but like my last years build, i plan on using this “Light” and not let it become a shelf queen.
- First photo is of the familiar boxes of Brass fittings, brass scrap, sheet, pipes, bar, etc.
- Second photo is the huge bin of gauges, valves, plumbing, air & gas regulators:
- Third photo is more parts, switches, wire, electrical components, etc:
- MORE Bins of wire, BX cable, conduit, tubing, components, relays, etc:
- tons of bolts, bulbs, valves, hoses, O-rings…
- boxes of old Gas & oil lantern & stove parts:
- Dozens & dozens of old recovered solar panels from trashed garden LED lights:
- Now to just cook my mind on what to make from many of these pieces to something that emits light…
- - - UPDATE: July,26,2015 - - -
Today i spent 7 hours in the garage working on the “Apocalypse Light” 3rd Annual BLF contest entry, cutting, grinding, sanding, polishing, scrounging, salvaging, bending, breaking, along with skinned-out knuckles & cut fingers to go with it its all a part of the fun of doing things the old fashioned way.
After more thinking what to build and how to do it, i began by working on the Flashlight-part of the project. after thinking about what i would use this time for a light head, (either a P60 drop-in, reflectors, asphyrics, TIR optics, etc.) i decided to go the way of building the head from scratch (like i did with the SteamPipe Light) but this time using a smaller, textured 20mm optic to give a smooth, floody beam.
The head was built out of salvaged brass fittings as seen in the photo below:
image #1 - first i hacksawed off the back of a 3/4” compression fitting
image #2 - then ground & sanded it flat and smooth on the sides.
image #3 - Then i used a round stone on the drill press to grind out the inside a little bigger,
image #4 - to press in & solder in a 1/2” threaded collar cut from a 1/2” nipple.
image #5 - I then cut off another “ring” from a 3/4” barb, to make a retaining ring for the TIR optic.
image #6 - here i decided to drill 1/16” holes around the cut ring, to use a Snap-Ring pliers to tighten the optic retaining ring/bezel instead of using notches.
Next photo is the almost completed head part of the removable/rechargable flashlight:
image #1 - At the moment i don’t have any copper plate 1/8” thick, so i went with aluminum plate to make the pill for now,
image #2 - the pill plate in place for the 16mm star & XM-L2 4C emitter.
image #3 - The head part assembled, with the ring/bezel holding the optic, star and pill plate down in place agained the back 1/2” collar pressed/soldered in the head fitting.
So after i finished the head part of the Flashlight section, i decided to put that aside for now to begin work on the lantern/power unit of this Light project.
I began to scrounge up more parts and pieces, (and the wife is going to get a weird answer when i have to explain why the hallway brass Chandelier went missing…)
Below photo explains:
image #1 - The brass ceiling chandelier gets butchered for usable parts, mainly the 3/8” brass tubes.
image #2 - the tubes was straightened using a hand Automotive brake-line bender.
image #3 - I’m not looking forward to the question she is going to ask where her brass pot holder & brass pan can for flowers vanished too…
image #4 - decided to use a salvaged tank (fount) from an old gas table lamp, particularly the brass one on the right, ( after fixing a stripped fuel cap threads)
Next photo is more progress on the lantern/power section:
image #1 - after fixing the threads on the cap, i then re-threaded to center hole to fit 1/4” NPT brass fittings.
image #2 - Gauges, gauges and more gauges! I picked one from the regulator junk bin to use to measure pressure level for the lantern section.
image #3 - Before i began assembling the plumbing for the light head, valves, and regulator/generator, i polished all the parts as most of them were dirty, tarnished, some covered in paint.
image #4 - here showing before assembly. Here i am having to use gas-grade sealant as it will have to seal perfectly and be safe for using all types of fuel.
Next photo, more parts coming together:
image #1 - Here the lower plumbing parts & gauge is assembled with the permanent sealant.
image #2 - After rummaging through my old lantern & stove parts, i managed to cobble together a valve regulator with new seals.
image #3 - since i could not find a fuel pick-up tube/filter long enough to reach the bottom of the tank, a old AM/FM radio sacrificed its antenna so i could use a section of its tube to make an extension.
image #4 - Here is the section of antenna soldered to the pick-up tube to make it longer.
next are more parts salvaged and rigged together:
image #1 - Salvaged & cleaned air pump shaft from a scrapped Coleman Naptha camp stove.
image #2 - Here the tank & main plumbing under going a pressure/leak test, ( showing 8 to 10 PSI on the gauge to test if it holds that pressure overnight, (as the normal operating pressure range for gas lanterns are between 5 to 20 PSI.
image #3 - after searching for a suitable generator tube, i decided to salvage one from one of my collection vintage multi-fuel Kero lanterns, ( until i can order one to replace on that lantern)
image #4 - out of 5 burner heads i had in my coleman parts junk boxes, i settled on this one and cleaned it up with a wire brush wheel on a drill.
image #5 - in order to be able to make this unit a true multi-fuel burner, i will need to add a Pre-Heater cup to the generator tube. as i never had any spare salvaged cups in the lantern & stove junk boxes, i had to make one out of, well more brass fittings.
image #6 - drilling out the center of the 1/2” pipe cap, to thread and insert a 1/8” NPT nipple.
image #7 - the Pre-heater cup ready to be placed over the generator tube.
Photo below should give an idea of the contraption i’m trying to build…
image #1 - here showing the pre-heater cup on the multi-fuel type generator tube. This will allow the unit to be able to burn all types of fuel, including Gasoline, Naphtha, Kerosene, Diesel, Furnace oil, Jet-A fuel, Bio-Diesel, almost any type of fuel that can be scavenged in an apocalyptic world.
image #2 - here showing roughly the position the removable Flashlight will be on the light, which will be recharged by main lantern section or the Sun.
image #3 - this to show a rough idea of that the project will eventually look like, (but much more) (Brass flower pot on the top, with the brass flower plate on the bottom possibly as a stavble base…
- - - There is quite a lot more to go on this crazy build, once it’s completed it will be a self-sustaining multi-use source of light, heat, power and more.
UPDATE-2: August,01,2015
Spent some more time in the garage tonight working on the build project. Worked a bit more on the removable Flashlight section in images below:
image #1 - Found an old PCB speaker board in one of the junk boxes salvaged from an old stereo to cut a positive cell plate from,
image #2 - It has a good solid plated copper terminal to use as the center post.
image #3 - After some filing and sanding, it fit perfectly in the X-fitting against the threads i left not ground away.
image #4 - Here i cut a piece from a larger 3/4” fitting to use as a tail cap threads,
image #5 - then i ground half the threads away, (on one side) so i could hammer-press the threaded ring on the end of the brass battery tube, ( then solder it in place)
image #6 - Here showing the threaded ring in place. Notice how the older salvaged red-brass tube is more of a copper color than the yellow-brass fittings.
More Updates, August,5,2015
After a couple hours of fighting & perfecting adjustments to the air/fuel mixture tubes on the Lantern/burner section of the build to refine the flow & mixture, i have this project Build lantern burning pure alcohol at 18 PSI in the fount. (methyl-Hydrate or Gas-Line antifreeze as you call it.) Alcohol is now added to list of fuels it has been tested and adjusted to run, including Camp-Fuel, Gasoline, Kerosene, and Diesel that it can burn to produce light.
UPDATE-3: August,27,2015
- So i pulled an all day today in the garage working on the Apocalypse Light.
After all th etesting to run it on various liquid fuels and refining the burner adjustments, i began to add the LP gas capability. (Propane, Butane, etc.
The image below and number descriptions:
IMAGE #1 - Its fun to salvage vintage fittings and parts, and with a wire brush, some elbow-grease, and a polishing wheel and compound various pieces clean up nicely:
IMAGE #2 - An old Brass propane torch head will be rebuilt & modified to supply the gas for the lantern section:
IMAGE #3 - After grinding & drilling out some more fittings, i made an adapter to clamp the propane torch head to:
IMAGE #4 - A part of the gas-collector in place in one of the two air-supply tubes for the burner/mixer head.
IMAGE #5 - The other Air-supply tube on the other side of the burner assembly, gets a flap-slide adjusting cover to adjust the air/gas mixture to allow the burner to run on LP gas efficiently.
Below photo collage and explanations:
IMAGE #1 - with some heating i bent the torch tube to 90 degrees.
IMAGE #2 - Here showing the LP Gas attachment in place. I tested this set up and it works great so far on Propane! ( next to test it on Butane.)
IMAGE #3 - one of the many part i had to order finally arrived, a new Pyrex shade to fit the lantern section’s lower frame measurements.
I then put the lantern/power generator section aside to work on the LED Flashlight/Lantern section.
Image below and explanations of the work steps:
IMAGE #1 - working on the light part, i soldered a tail cap spring from the flashlight parts bin to a 1/2” hex fitting plug. (which i cut a slot to open it with a coin, key, washer, etc.
IMAGE #2 - i cut and sanded a flange to cover the clicky side switch on the 4-way fitting of the body on the light.
IMAGE #3 - with a Dremel grinder (my favorite tool!) i ground away slots in one side of the 4-way to hold the switch in place with some 5-minute epoxy.
IMAGE #4 - with the switch ready and wired i place on one side, the other side will hold a TP4056 USB Li-Ion charger PC board, to recharge the LED light’s 18650 cell from the main Lantern’s generated ” free” power.
Next, was to work on getting the TP charger board, wires, Nanjq/Qlite 105C driver, switch, and all in the tiny space in the 4-way fitting. TOOK ME 3 HOURS and a ton of headaches to do successfully. ( photo below:
IMAGE #1 - with the driver, switch, TP4056, wires, etc ready to be somehow squeezed inside the tiny 1/2” 4-way fitting on the body of the light.
IMAGE #2 - The nice, neutral tint of the installed XP-L V2 emitter in a stippled TIR optic lens during testing of the wiring, driver, circuits.
IMAGE #3 - After 3 HOURS of frustration & pain, i managed to get all the parts inside the 4-way fitting, and have it all work!
After some hours working on the LED section, i went back to the gas lantern section. ( photo below)
IMAGE #1 - after nearly 2 weeks, the tank and all gas fittings held 15 PSI pressure and never leaked down at all, passing the leak testing!
IMAGE #2 - the only Stainless Steel part used so far, a dollar store camping plate, which will become the brim of the vent/top.
IMAGE #3 - a salvaged from the wife brass flower pot tray will become the base.
IMAGE #4 - the straightened tubes salvaged from a brass chandelier (sacrificed from my hallway) will become support tubes on the base.
IMAGE #5 - tapping 1/4-20 threads in the burner part to hold the top cooker, which was another salvaged brass flower can.
IMAGE #6 - another shot showing where the LED light will clip into.
finally at 12:00 midnight, i assembled the parts so far to the photo below:
IMAGE #1 - with the flower-pot top temporarily in place to measure where the brim will go:
IMAGE #2 - with the Stainless Steel Brim/shield in place:
UPDATE-4: September,1,2015
Spent a ton of knuckle-grinding hours in the garage this past weekend working on the Apocalypse light.
tested it with more fuels, including propane, Butane, and even EverClear 191-proof Grain-Alcohol booze!
- Inset images are explained below with final work on the Li-Ion Flashlight/lantern section:
IMAGE #1 - A cover for the TP4056 charger end of the light i cute it out of a piece of sheet brass.
IMAGE #2 - dremel tool with fine carbide tip cut the port and LED indicator light openings. ( i used a piece of acrylic plastic to direct the charge indicator lights to the open light port in the bras sheet.
IMAGE #3 - a ferrule from a bras garden hose fitting will make a retaining ring.
IMAGE #4 - the ferrule cut, ( then sanded & polished.
IMAGE #5 - the ferrule ring pressed into place holding the cover over the TP4056 port.
IMAGE #6 - for a diffuser to use on the LED flashlight, i decided on a salvaged diffuser from an old Garden LED light.
IMAGE #7 - with some hack-sawing, then dremmeling i re-worked the plastic diffuser to removed the collar, then glued a piece of extra-large frosted drinking straw inside to help diffuse the light more and cut glare.
IMAGE #8 - The removable diffuser in place on the LED flashlight.
IMAGE #9 - on medium mode. ( using a 3-7135 Q-lite, with a good 3000+ Mah 18650, i tested its run time to 7.3 hours before the driver low voltage kicked in.
IMAGE #10 - for mounting the flashligh/diffuser in “lantern mode” in the light, i made a hanging bracket for the top out of, well more brass.
IMAGE #11 - (Flashlight holding bracket installed on top.
- Next image collage, is more work on the lantern/frame section:
IMAGE #1 - to add an external primer/preheater fill point for the gas-lantern cup, i countersinked out a brass fitting to make a small funnel
IMAGE #2 - the tube will be made from 1/4” stainles steel automotire brake line.
IMAGE #3 - the “funnel” piece connected to the brake line tube via compression fitting.
IMAGE #4 - the brake line/fill tube bent and placed into the primer cup.
IMAGE #5 - the funnel end mounted into the top for filling the pre-heater cup from the top of the lantern frame.
IMAGE #6 - an old salvaged water valve hand wheel will be modified for a gas control knob.
IMAGE #7 - to add more protection to the components below the lantern head, an added heat deflector/shield is added, using a re-worked stainless steel electric range burner tray from the hardware store.
IMAGE #8 - the heat shield/range tray in place under the lantern base.
IMAGE #9 - for a mounting bracket for the Li-Ion Flashlight for use as a front lantern, spot light, and charging the light from the gas lantern.
IMAGE #10 - the bracket mount was made from a block of red-brass and piece of yellow brass flat-bar.
IMAGE #11 - the Flashlight mount/holder in place.
IMAGE #12 - Here, showing the LED Flashlight in the Lantern-mode clip position to be used to power the apocalypse Light in LED/Lithium Ion mode.
Next, is work on the solar power section that will charge the Flashlight/lantern, or charge your cell phone.
IMAGE #1 - i visited a hobby supply electronics store here locally recently, and found some later solar cells they had as one piece. (the largest one is 145 mm x 145 mm, and rated at 500 mAh at 6 volts DC, and should be plenty to power the TP4056 or slow-charge a cell phone. (will likely add more Solar options to this build so it can charge more than one accessory at a time.
IMAGE #2 - i had one of those USB extrnsion cords, so i will salvage the female-end of the USB plug to connect to the panel.
IMAGE #3 - the plug-end from the cord, and with a volt meter i determined the positive & negative power leads. (red & black)
IMAGE #4 - Salvaged a blocking diode from an onlt curcuit board from the junk bins, (to use as a anti-feedback diode on the solar panel.)
IMAGE #5 - the diode & USB plug soldered in place.
IMAGE #6 - i used 5-minute epoxy to secure it in place on the back of the solar panel, and covered the traces with plastic tape.
IMAGE #7 - to mount the solar panel, i made to brackets from brass plate.
IMAGE #8 - the brackets to mount the panel to the lantern main frame, and allow the panel to face the lantern at night for charging, then face up to the sun during the day for charging.
IMAGE #9 - the panel in place for night charging (the gas lantern produces light and radiation similar to the sun, and the panel works really well this way!
IMAGE #10 - the panel facing up for charging during the day in the sun.
- Next photos show modifications to the guage and LED lantern mode.
IMAGE #1 - I found a lower pressure 1-30 PSI gauge , more accurate gauge in the junk boxes to use for the gas lantern part, ( better as pressures are usually always below 20 PSI) but here i had to use the outer
frame from the 0-160 PSI gauge as it was in better shape.
IMAGE #2 - I decided to add the “glow tube” feature to this light as i did to last years Steam Pipe Light. I placed the Green LED in the guage to work as both a night light, and gauge light at night, and the 2-AA battery pack is mounted under the base of the tank. (this will run continuously 24-7 as it does on the Steam Pipe Light, and will never turn off.
IMAGE #3 - showing the green “glow” permanent light in the pressure auge.
IMAGE #4 - here, showing the flashlight with diffuser in place in the lantern for fuel-less LED mode, ( next to the gas mantle.)
Below images for handle:
IMAGE #1 - i used a piece of 3/16” round rod to make a carrying handle from.
IMAGE #2 - the handle in place.
Below is the build as it is now. (80 % completed)
IMAGE #1 - Here is the Apocalypse Light with the LED Flashlight in the lower position, diffuser on, and in Moonlight mode. (in this mode, it will run for years non-stop as long as the solar collector is in place and charged by either the gas lantern section or the sun.
IMAGE #2 - here is the LED Flashlight placed in Lantern-Mode with Diffuser in place, in Medium mode. Here it will run on LED mode for 7+ hours per night, charged by the solar panel using either the sun, or the gas lantern (when lantern is in Gas-light mode with the Flashlight moved down to the lower clamp.)
Updates Sept,9,2015
Below i added the base cover, to allow storage of extra lantern mantles, Li-Ion cells, the charging cords, accessories, tools, etc.
IMAGE #1 - the base plate was Jigsawed from a used vegetable cutting board.
IMAGE #2 - four brass tabs were cut from sheet brass, to make clips to hold the base cover in place.
IMAGE #3 - the completed base cover in place.
IMAGE #4 - i decided to add an extra feature to this build, the ability to boil water or cook food when using in fuel modes. (using two pieces cut from stainless steel)
IMAGE #5 - the cooker plates in place.
IMAGE #6 - Here showing the accessories stored in place, ( USB charging cords, extra 18650 cells, extra gas lantern mantles, cooker plates, tools, etc.
IMAGE #7 - here the main solar collector in place in storage when not in use in the base over the accessories.
Well i managed to get this build close to completed, with beamshots and running photos.
First up, is the complete build with the flashlight incorporated into its lantern host, running on Li-Ion LED mode in lantern and front-light modes (no fuels) at the camp this past weekend.
-( As seen in the photo below. ( *note the fuel cap on the tank is off & empty, with pressure guage at zero:)
IMAGE #1 - with it running in High-Mode with the module in Lantern-position.
IMAGE #2 - with it running in the lower position in High mode.
Below is the main LED Flashlight/module part of this build. it uses one 18650, has a modded 4-mode with moonlight Nanjq/Qlite 105C driver, a Cree XM-L2 4C tint emitter, and a TP4056 USB charger, and a Stippled 20mm TIR optic. (notice that red-brass was used for the battery main body and yellow brass fittings used for the rest to give it some coloration.
Below, is a beam shot of the LED flashlight/module showing the smooth profile of the beam with the stippled TIR optic.
IMAGE #1 - On high mode with no diffuser.
IMAGE #2 - On high mode with diffuser in place, showing the flood ability.
Below is a comparison beam shots of the build’s LED Flashlight module compared to some other similar sized lights.
- IMAGE #1 - The Apocalypse Light on High mode.
- IMAGE #2 - 501B High-mode.
- IMAGE #3 - Sunwayman F30A with Nichia 210B mod on high mode.
- IMAGE #4 - BLF X6 SE on High mode.
*note: the farthest trees in the shots are 150 yards away.
*UPDATES: September,11,2015
Next up below, is the light running on fuel-modes.
IMAGE #1 - First here running on Propane. propane is not quite so bright as the other fuels, or the LED Li-Ion mode, but it does run very well on it and is hte easiest to light up with no pre-heating needed. (-note that the tank cap is off (liquid fuel tank empty) in this mode it will run on most any LP gas you can find, (Propane, Butane, Natural Gas, etc due to the variable air/fuel mixture adaptability) and with the use of a common gas adapter hose can be run from BBQ tanks, etc.
IMAGE #2 - Here it is running on Camp Fuel, (Naptha fuel/White gas) this fuel is the brightest & seems to produce the whitest light. ( the next easiest fuel to light up in the unit next to Propane.
IMAGE #3 - Next after siphoning out the camp fuel, is Kerosene. To run this fuel it requires a longer pre-heat of the gas generator, (using the pre-heating cup filled with alcohol or using the propane mode to pre-heat the burner & generator.)
IMAGE #4 - After Kerosene, here its running on common Gasoline. this lights up & burns similar to the Camp Fuel, but not so cleanly.
More fuel types tested below Image:
IMAGE #1 - Here running on Diesel fuel. This fuel seems to be the dirtiest to light up after long pre-heats, and give the most smell, but again it runs fine once at full operating temperature
This also means the light will run on Jet-A, stove fuel, furnace fuel, etc. if you have some as all are similar levels of refinement as Diesel & Kerosene. (i do not have any Bio-Diesel to test sadly.)
IMAGE #2 - I thought i would give Paint-Thinner (Varsol) a shot to see if it works, and it sure does! Here running on Paint thinner. (again like the other heavy fuels, it took a long pre-heating and some fine adjustment of the added air-fuel flap-valve.
IMAGE #3 - and lastly in this round of testing, Methyl Hydrate. (Gas line Antifreeze, alcohol, etc.) this fuel also took a bit of preheating and air adjustments, and is similar to propane with the lower light ouput and slightly yellower hue, but it does run!
Ok after the above testing its confirms than it is possible to run this light on nearly any liquid or gas fuel you can find in an emergency situation, ( other than vegetable oil or motor oil which i have not tested, and many need to custom build a special generator tube to run such a heavy viscosity fluid) Most of all the fuels tested seems to run great at an average of 1- to 12 PSI tank pressure, (except for the Methyl Hydrate, which ran better at 15 PSI or higher.
Next testing is the power generation function. I planned to add more removable panels eventually,(to the sides) but right now this one main panel is working great.
IMAGE #1 - here showing the solar panel/generator in place on the folding arms, charging the Li-Ion LED Flashlight/Lantern module while running on fuel mode. (*note the red Indicator of the built-in TP4056 USB charger on the light module is on charging the Li-Ion 18650 cell.)
IMAGE #2 - Here the solar collector is charging my cellphone. (green light on the phone indicating its at full charge. (* also note on the top of the unit, the pot-holder plates are in place & a kettle boiling water for a cup of coffee at the same time.
All the accessories, including the solar panel, USB charging cords, top cooking plates, extra lantern mantles, extra 18650 cells, tools, etc. are all stored in the base of the unit.
Below is a photo lf the light using both fuel and Li-Ion sections running. without the LED diffuser in place:
Below, the same running mode with the LED diffuser in place:
While using both fuel and LED light modes, the lantern part illuminates the entire area around you, (trails, hazards etc.) and the LED light module (without the diffuser in place) lights the path or area in front. (as seen below when carried.)
- For the most part, this build is completed and usable on our camping trips, emergencies, etc. I will provide more photos soon of it recharging during the day, and possibly any additions or upgrades/refinements. So far this build has been used at the camp & working great, while providing multiple means of “light” from many sources of fuel and Li-Ion cells. ( another possible addition will be an adapter for it to run from 12 volt DC sources, AA NiMH cells, Alkaline batteries, etc. to add versatility in emergency or “apocalypse” situations, to provide Light.
As last years build, i intend to put this to use on camping trips, power outages, and more.
