BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

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chuckhov
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Please add an AL set for me in CW, XP-L Hi.

Thank you,
-Chuck

bugsy36
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djozz wrote:

I'm sure it will not be a good idea to say 'yes' to this, but I can always ask Innocent : I would not mind my set to be both the 14500 K8, one in alu, one in copper, for whatever the price of that will be.

It is only the fool that does not ask. Smile You would be better off to buy one of each set and either sell of the X6's or gift them.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

djozz
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bugsy36 wrote:

djozz wrote:

I'm sure it will not be a good idea to say 'yes' to this, but I can always ask Innocent : I would not mind my set to be both the 14500 K8, one in alu, one in copper, for whatever the price of that will be.

It is only the fool that does not ask. Smile You would be better off to buy one of each set and either sell of the X6's or gift them.

You'd make a fine salesman, bugsy! Ok, add one copper/SS set for me Smile

Muto
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1) SS/Copper (SS/Cu) set.
2) Tint NW.
3) Quantities. 1 Set Please

Thanks!
Keith

The difference between Hoarding and Collecting is the illusion of Organization
.

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

bugsy36
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Thanks for the compliment Joz....but salesman I am not. LOL. I am just good at quickly adding up value. Comes from all of the years buying tools as mechanic. Smile

Really...this deal that Kronos has come up with is a no-brainer. Here is another example. I know many of my coworkers lost their X6's to their wives and girlfriends. I am certain the 14500 version will be a hit not just amongst us but also the non-flashaholic spouses, etc. 

What Dale mentioned about SS is also true. I have certain stainless weapons that although a bit heavier they are super super easy to keep clean and looking like new. And hell...the aluminum versions with Wight's driver and the new XPL..you cannot build those lights for the money these are selling for out of the box.

Here is another example..MItko made a killing with some of the X6's. I am sure he would do just as well with the Al versions but I also wonder what he could do with the SS/Cu versions.

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

DTJ
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Please add an AL set for me in CW, XP-L Hi.
Thanks

jmpaul320
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Interested in one NW set of each

Subscribed

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

chuckhov
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Hi Bugsy!

Will you also be updating the list for Krono?

Gotta see ‘my’ team reach 100!

Of course rooting for the 200 SS/CU guys too!

Thanks,
-Chuck

wobba
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1 AL Set – NW – XP-L HI (if possible)

THX!

iron potato
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Mind do I have my lucky number 34 for an Al NW slot? Silly

bugsy36
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chuckhov wrote:
Hi Bugsy! Will you also be updating the list for Krono? Gotta see 'my' team reach 100! Of course rooting for the 200 SS/CU guys too! Thanks, -Chuck

Actually I cannot update the list in that post because of passwords but I will try and update it in one of my posts later tonight. ....just keep 'em coming and keep adding. The more the merrier! Wink

It's the simple things that we take for granted that cost us the most

Ευκαιρία λέει πιάσε με από το μέτωπο γιατί μόλις έχω περάσει δεν θα με πιάσειs

chuckhov
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I’m already down for 2 sets, Bugsy…Hell, there’s only so much a poor man can do to help:-)

Come on now, all you Rich Guys (def: “Not Retired”)… it’s only a ‘little bit’ of money – You can Make More:-)

Thanks to all that join!
-Chuck

T.H.Cone
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Up for another one, eh, Krono?

Anyway, I’d be up for one set each, so

1) SS/Copper (SS/Cu) set
2) NW
3) One set

And

1) Aluminum (Al) set.
2) NW
3) One set

As always, your time and efforts are appreciated; same goes for your team of helpers.

fidem, prae caeteris omnibus praeter honestatem

 

 

Don't be confused, my Username has been changed from "Cone" to "T.H.Cone".  I'm still the same clown.

ilovejesuschrist
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1) Aluminum(Al)
2) Tint NW.
3) 1 Set Please

Sarge930
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SS/Cu NW

djozz
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Btw, both my sets NW please.

(if that ever becomes a possibilty and the led is is on the market at all, everything with Nichia 219C 4500K 92 CRI please Cool )

chuckhov
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Yes!!!

Keep em coming guys!

But – Full Disclosure:

I want… no I “Need” this GB to become reality!

Shop around with all of the high priced brands, and NONE of them even come close to what is being proposed here!

Killer GB! – Thanks again guys!
-Chuck

nisse
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Lurking to score number 100 for a Ai NW set Smile

ahirshy
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kronological wrote:
Billy X wrote:
Is an X6R out of the question instead of the X6?This would be the excuse to get one.
Sorry...just the X6.

Good; now I don't feel so bad having just invested in a X6R less than 10 days before this GB was announced! Embarassed

I seem to remember in Krono's review he mentioned that most of the components are slightly different between the X6 (regular/BLF/SE) and X6R, meaning they can't be interchanged for lego-ing.

I guess that will probably remain true for this X6 v2, so we likely won't be able to retro-fit the charging head/parts into this one? Not that you'd especially want to of course! Cool

Basically despite similar sounding model-numbers and aesthetics they are two different enough lights to justify having them both... Money Mouth

chuckhov
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nisse wrote:
Lurking to score number 100 for a Ai NW set Smile

Ok, but why not ‘xx’, and then 100 when it gets there?

Think about it… You could Use the xx, and save the 100 for a Shelf Queen:-)

Just sayin:-)
-Chuck

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DBCstm wrote:
What I’ve always liked about SS as compared to anodized aluminum or blued steel is that it can be kept pristine much easier. Get a scratch? Polish it off. Sand it, file it, polish it, heat blue it, whatever strikes your fancy… you don’t have to match a black or blued finish so it’s easy to work on it or simply refresh it.

And it’s heavy enough, strong enough, to beat on things with. Not just as a weapon but a hammer, a bludgeon, whatever. Smile


I have one stainless steel light, a Convoy S7. It’s one of my favorites because it looks great and it’s very tough. I use it as my “beater” light, the one light I never have to worry about damaging. After years of being carried on the outside of my purse, it’s totally covered in microscopic scratches, but unless you look at it in just the right lighting… it still looks like a mirror.
ahirshy
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nisse wrote:
Lurking to score number 100 for a Ai NW set :-)

If this GB becomes as popular as it deserves to be, I'll be putting my name down for another set of each at position 1981.

Yell I CALL DIBS on position 1981! Surprised

...Waiting... CoolTongue Out

ToyKeeper
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BTW, silly question… why is it the K6 instead of K5? Usually a 6 means 18650 and a 5 means 14500 (and 3 for 16340 / 18350).

ToyKeeper
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bugsy36 wrote:
There is no way that it will not pull the amps. As for the Turbo timer…that is up to TK and Kronos.

So, for aluminum it should be able to dissipate quite a bit of heat. I’d imagine no turbo timer is necessary there, except maybe on the smaller version.

For copper, it’s probably okay too… especially since a 14500 cell won’t usually push as much power as an 18650. But OTOH it’ll also be small so heat could still potentially be an issue. Maybe.

For stainless steel, … heat builds up like crazy and takes forever to shed. To make it even remotely safe, it would probably need a somewhat short timer which steps down twice. Do you think it would be better to try to make it safe, or better to just get rid of the timer entirely and trust the light’s operator to manage heat, knowing that the light could probably kill itself? Also keep in mind that the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels — heat moves slowly through steel.

chuckhov
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“Also keep in mind that the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels — heat moves slowly through steel.”

.

Very good point, TK.

I really think that if people want Bling, then to go with what Dale suggested – A Hybrid, with a SS body with CU fins.

Again: “…the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels…”

Such is the nature of our reality. – You can actually have everything you want, but only in small doses at a time:-)

Thanks TK!
-Chuck

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chuckhov wrote:
“Also keep in mind that the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels — heat moves slowly through steel.”

.

Very good point, TK.

I really think that if people want Bling, then to go with what Dale suggested – A Hybrid, with a SS body with CU fins.

Again: “…the outside of the light might not even be hot by the time the inside is approaching dangerous levels…”

Such is the nature of our reality. – You can actually have everything you want, but only in small doses at a time:-)

Thanks TK!
-Chuck

I really like the SS with Cu fins idea: makes it practical for use on high power for longer. But its probably hard to get that built…

I also agree if its going to green the beam its not worth the tiny boost in output. 3C is also pretty green on average, so I am torn on all the GBs, love the idea and the light, dislike the green NW + greening AR.

Wrathbringer27
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djozz wrote:

Btw, both my sets NW please.

(if that ever becomes a possibilty and the led is is on the market at all, everything with Nichia 219C 4500K 92 CRI please Cool )


+9999999999999999999999999999

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

Gunga
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I’ll take an aluminum set too. NW.

djozz
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Btw, a Cu insert with fins, in a SS body will be an improvement and awesome looking, but it will still not nearly shed the amount of heat that a middle-of-the-road aluminium body can, in which the heat spreads over the body in no time, if flat black anodised it is even better.

(aluminium is just unbeatable for flashlight use: great heat capacity, great heat conductor, lightweight, cheap, machining is a piece of cake, it can be durably stained, it is strong enough for most purposes. If you are a flashlight enthousiast and have a distaste for aluminium, you really make it hard for yourself)

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My only stainless steel light is the Convoy S7… and even with its relatively thin walls (half as thick as aluminum lights), it’s heavy and takes a while to cool down after being used. Having air flow doesn’t help it as much as it helps aluminum or copper. I love the idea of a steel X6, and I want one, but I worry about it shedding heat.

But we won’t have to worry about damaging the host! If its parts are exactly the same size and shape as the original it might actually be bullet-proof. It’ll be seriously indestructible.

There’s a common belief that titanium is stronger than steel. And, in one sense, it’s true — a given mass of titanium will support more weight than the same mass of steel. But titanium is much lighter, so it can be a lot thicker at the same weight. And titanium is generally softer so it scratches easier. If you go by volume instead of mass, steel is usually stronger.

Chances are, a steel X6 will still be in pretty good condition when your grandchildren inherit it… Unless you use it for target practice with armor-piercing rounds or store it in salt water when not being used.

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