Would you be interested in buying a 4-mode; Very low - Low - Med - High; XP-G version of the Eastward YJ J609 for ~$18?

Hi agenthex, to me the J609 looks much nicer than the ITP EOS A2, and it's tailstandable, clicky, and potentially significantly cheaper. And potentially it could have an XP-G emitter, which we would all love. Otherwise, I'm still waiting for a killer deal on the EOS A2, it does look like like a great light, just a tad pricey for my liking.

OK, potential demand of 33 and counting... Looking very promising!

So it appears that most of our more opinionated users generally agree on ITC as a possible vendor? Sounds like a pretty good option. I personally would not be opposed to buying it from Lightake either. But again, let's wait to hear back from the company to see if we can possibly swing a shipping deal. Fran82 mentioned the issue of breaches of contract with the HK retailers if Eastward were to sell the lights directly to us users here. I imagine that could be an issue, although it still doesn't seem like it should be. In this case, we're not simply asking for a cheaper price on a product that other dealers sell. We are asking for an entirely NEW product that nobody sells yet. So I don't think DX or KD could complain about this if they are simply not interested in the product.

Some of you were wondering why DX and friends continue selling lights with strobe and SOS. My guess is that people buy them and usually don't like them, but they don't have any other option of south of $50.00, so they just live with it. And from the Chinese suppliers' end, I suspect it's simply an issue of lack of perception or "feel" for their target market. They probably mistakenly conclude that their consumers will think that MORE MODES = BETTER VALUE. Adding cheap "bling", gimmicky features is a common marketing method. But ultimately, as someone mentioned, they just want to sell what people will buy and make money. So BLF is here is to tell the world that they will sell far more and probably make way more money if they offer some lights without strobe and SOS. And my personal wish is for a light that has an EXTREMELY low mode that offer 60 to 80 hours of runtime on an AA.

Thanks guys. Please make sure that if you are interested in this light to respond (once) in the poll, that's what we'll use to impress the manufacturer with our numbers.

Otherwise, I'm still waiting for a killer deal on the EOS A2, it does look like like a great light, just a tad pricey for my liking.

Yes, but what makes the EOS lights "worth it" is that they have superior build quality (that and no shit modes). Everyone makes a $10 aaa xr-e light, but many are willing to shell out for the A3. It is somewhat assumed here that Eastward meets this bar?

While we're still dreaming, I'd like a neutral-ish (4500K, or just 5000K WH tint is perfect) bin. I'd buy 3 even if they dropped every other feature if they can guarentee that.

I don't know why higher end lights still use WC. I can't think of any reason to prefer it over WH and I can't imagine it would cost much more.

I guess we don't know. The design is really nice, though. If they will do the custom modes with an XP-G emitter, it should be well worth the (very approximately) $18 price we're aiming for. And again, if I'm going to pay more than $15 for a light, I really want it to (1) Tailstand and (2) Be a clicky.

Why click? That takes up mores space for an EDC. Size is why, say, the Tank E07 is worth its price.

Bring on the suggestions! This thing might turn out to be a designer light.

So while we're building our dream flashlight, I'd like to propose the following mode lineup:

  1. Moonlight low (1 lumen)
  2. Low (6 lumens)
  3. Med (40 lumens)
  4. Maximum (150 lumens on NiMH)

In this case it would be called the BLF AA-Z4, of course.

And personally I think that the low mode should come first, because if it defaults to 100% High, it won't turn on at all when the battery is really low. What do you guys think?

Hmmm, does a clicky switch necessarily have to preclude small size? These 1xAAA MXDL lights are tiny little things, despite the clicky.

But it seems like the world already has two perfect budget twisties in the ITP EOS lineup. (Although they should really lose the bump on the tailcap that prevents them from tailstanding.) What we don´t have yet are budget lights with an extremely low mode and a clicky.

I'll buy 1 or 2 of the BLF AA-Z4's. That to me would be close to perfect on a budget light. Low mode when turned on, then medium, then high and then moonlight. No dumb strobes or sos.

Is it just me or is 'QUOTE' missing from this thread? Undecided

Sounds nice = Moon mode / Low / med / High 100% + memory to remember last mode ....

If we are going custom ? How bout mirroring the body [ middle part ] , so it looks like the head end in the picture , for both ends , that would be even more trick ......... Id pay another dollar for that ! , or two !

Good idea old.......I'm in for 1 or 2 of those.

And WHY NOT hybrid driver (AA/14500 support)?

XPG-R5 needs 14500 to go full power.

Why we need a xpg-r5 flashlight to produce 150 lumens with ni.mh? Is stupid!

For that I prefer to purchase a TF F20 which has a Q5 and with 14500 I will have more power than an hipotetic Z4 xpg-r5 NiMh that produces 150 lumens on high with nimh

Even I prefer to purchase an A2 eos and using it with 14500 altough not recomended by manufacturer! (only 22,49$ at HKequipment)

Even the modes could be better.

Moonlight is good.

Low is too too low... I prefer about 20 lumens

Medium is a bit low... I prefer 60-80 lumens

High could be higher with 14500.... about 250-300 lumens if not more

But only if the nimh usage is not crippled by 14500 support. Most dual 14500+nimh lights are horrible with nimh. See the Akorays for example. My nimh-only lights perform much better.

My dream mode line-up:

  1. Moonlight low (1 lumen)
  2. Low (6 lumens)
  3. Med 1 (30 lumens)
  4. Med 2 (70 lumens
  5. Maximum (150 lumens on NiMH or about 50 min -1 hour runtime )

I would also like a definitive starting mode, so pls no memory for me.

Maybe a driver where we can invert the mode line-up with a switch or a soldering dot.

And keep the PWM high > 1 khz or even better current regulated.

Maybe I ask for too much for a sub 20 $, but I would even pay 25-30 $ if it had all the features.

Hmmm, does a clicky switch necessarily have to preclude small size?

Since the switch itself is about 5-10mm, unless they have a specially thin one, I would think clicky's are at least about that much longer than a twisty with a flat bottom.

Agree. Both AA and 14500. A R5 should have a 14500. If its only 150 lumens its not that interesting. Have overlooked that in the first place.

Hello again,

Ok so it look like a driver compatible with AA + 14500 would be the best compromise. I know that this reduces AA and 14500 performance a bit, but I think we might alienate a lot of people if we don't support both.

As for the maximum output, I'm not very good at estimating lumen outputs, and I'm just basing my estimate on what I've read about other lights. How about if we try to use other known lights as reference points? Can we say that the Trustfire R5-A3 is currently the brightest AA / 14500 compatible budget light? I'd be perfectly happy with the high output of the R5-A3

As for the low outputs, I've read that "moonlight mode" in the lights that have super-long runtime is usually around 1 lumen. I don't own one, though, and have no reference points. But it should still be useful for emergency work in dark conditions. Or bedtime reading. My reference point for "low" mode is the Trustfire F20 (K-106 3-mode is similar), which are reported to make around 6 lumens on low. 6 lumens is a very nice low for working around the house in a power outage, or even walking around in very dark conditions outside. I tend to think that we should be conservative with the "medium" mode, since we can always briefly switch it to the highest mode if needed. Does anybody know how much light the Trustfire F20 or the Ultrafire C3 Stainless put out on medium?

Ok, let's try to keep this discussion moving. Thanks for all your comments and suggestions. Meanwhile I'm still waiting on a new reply from Eastward about shipping, I imagine I won't hear anything until Sunday night or even Monday night.

Thanks, take care.

And... we're up to 37 now at the poll! Nice!

TrustFire F20. WIth Ni-Mh estimate "by eye"

HIGH = 140-160 lumen

MED = 90-100 lumen

LOW = 6-8 lumen

I agree about the R5-A3 is the brightest AA sized light

One very important thing is the pwm frequency. Noticable mode flickering could totally ruin it for me.

i dont really like the AA sized flashlights. output is just not as good as 18650 or 16430 flashlights.

and btw, someone commented on strobe? VERY useful function. believe it or not. I live on a dark road with a speed limit of 30 mph. but guess what, i even do 55+ on it. straight shot, no cops.

soo when backing in trucks, my 16430 light (and my p7 MTE before i modified it) would stop oncomming traffic from both directions in a matter of 1/8 mile to 1/4 mile!

much safer than trying to stop them with something low powered (for instance a 100 lumen light like a AA) that didnt have strobe

this flashlight looks ok, if it was cheaper than 18 bux i might be in for one anyways, but i have no 14500 batteries in my collection yet.

SIDE NOTE:

Lowe's is now carrying 18500 (comes in solar lighting) and 14430 LiFEPO4!!!!

the 14430 comes in the super expensive solar lighting, with only 250maH. but they are on J-hooks in 2 packs for about 13 bux, with 400mah.

not sure if we can get a flashlight 14430 sized in an r5 but i would DEF be in for one.

i tried my smart charger, sure enough, charges to 3.62 V no problem!!! (on a 14430 250mah)