KronoReview: Eagle Eye X6R

Yes, mine says U2-3A, but I'm thinking it's a true 3C - I have lots of 3C's.

Yes, mine has a white plastic retainer as well - never saw this in any X6.

Here's the stock #'s I measured, using a LG HE2 at 4.10+v:

moon - 0.03A: 13.6 lumens

lo - 0.45A: 190 lumens

mid - 1.19A: 455 lumens

hi - 2.96A: 1027 @start, 986 lumens @30 secs

throw: 23.8 kcd, 308 meters (measured at 5m)

This driver uses 380 mA 7135's, not 350's, so in theory it should get 3.04A, but 380's always read a little lower. The results are darn close to what is stated for the X6R.

I have two extra X6 reflectors - I built a triple and quad X6, so the reflectors became spare parts. Anyone who did this probably has extra reflectors.

The real good news is the driver and charging circuit are completely separate, isolated on two different PCB's in fact. Only 3 pins connect the two, from the charger base board to the driver: ground (Batt -), Batt +, and the switch.

Here's detailed pics of the top view:

Hers you can see the 3 posts carrying the 3 signals. It got a little marked up from attempt to disconnect the board - apparently it's not a plug connector, posts are probably soldered:

The top driver board is about 20mm. There is very little clearance above it, so stacking extra 7135's might not fit - very close. Pill cavity doesn't have much vertical space. They could fit, maybe, then you may have them touching the pill top.

A 1mm one sided FET based driver would be perfect for this, just have to tap into the pins, maybe remove them or trim them down, and add maybe some extra support on the opposite side, like an extra ground line.

Code still works, thanks for sharing :smiley:

I was able to separate the top driver from the bottom by putting the iron on the top of the 3 posts - came off relatively easily. Now it's just a regular piggyback job - usually things: 22 AWG grnd wires (3 could fit), 20 AWG LED+ straight through the FET+1 driver and through the contact board direct to the spring pad, and 20 AWG LED- wire from the FET/7135 output to the LED.

I did some continuity tests, and poking around. The main charging circuit goes through a 8 pin lead surface mount (same basic format as a ATTiny13A), and the chip is labeled:

5056

1418

It's got a red LED and blue LED by the switch, outputs from this part lights them up, and the USB+ goes into pin #4 (via a protection diode), and batt+ goes to pin #5. Pins #6 and #7 control the LED's. This will be awesome if it works out like I suspect!!

Full blown FET+1 driver, modes/firmware I want, plus the fully blown USB charging in tact! Dunno, not sure if anyone else has done a mod like this -- probably, I just missed it Smile.

Let me know if anyone is following this, has interest in it, etc...

Thanks TomE! I’ve been waiting for this info for a long time. Would be really interesting to have a fet+1 piggyback on this.

Btw, I'm using a 20K 0805 resistor across the FET input now on these FET+1 drivers. Seems to take care of the flicker when changing modes or when turning the light ON. With a 22K, it still happens but very intermittently. You don't want to go lower in value because it could effect power (amps).

I’m following…very nice work Tom. The “downside” is that I probably need to buy more. My first goal was to test them firmly(mostly the charging) and if they meet my requirement give one to my father and one to my brother. The charging ability saves me from giving chargers…

After following this I will probably need to buy one for me :wink:

Finished the mod - worked out very well. Used a XM-L2 T6 4C on a 20mm SinkPAD, and the FET+1 (wight A17HYBRID-8) driver. On a HE4 @4.20v, I got 6.25A tail, lumens: 1707 @start, 1615 @30 secs, throw: 39 kcd (395 meters). I used 20 AWG LED wires, with the LED+ direct from the spring, 22 AWG spring bypass wires. I left the stock LED centering piece, but filed it open a little. Used Nyogel on threads/o-rings, NO-OX-ID on the contact points. The stacking of the driver worked out real nice - lower profile than the stock driver assembly.

Couple of things to note on the X6R:

  • as krono mentioned, you can't LEGO the parts with the X6 - I consider this a con, but see below
  • the body tube is thicker than a X6 (X6: 23.5mm, X6R: 24.7mm)
  • overall the X6R feels better balanced than an X6, and looks more balanced
  • the SS clip on the X6R is a different design - thicker all around
  • the finish is not flat or matte, it is definitely more of a gloss black, at least on mine
  • the knurling is more robust on the X6R - definitely grippier. The X6's were pretty smooth.
  • the switch is a quality one - it's recessed and small to avoid accidental activation, but makes it a little harder to engage. I do like it very much.

With the discount code, to get a light like this for $24 is a good deal for sure... Not crazy about the $3 extra for neutral, but even for $28 it's a deal.

Thanks for the info, Tom. Did you take pics of the mod? Please post them!

The X6R is indeed a nice light…even un-modded. Definitely worth the money, even more so with the discount code.

I took some of the driver assembly.

Here's the FET+1 A17HYBRID-8 v009 driver on the left all prep'd, and the base stock board that has the switch and charging circuitry on it. Notice on the FET+1, the hole is to pass the 20 AWG LED+ wire through, and I removed some of the ground plane masking to get better contact on the driver edges. On the stock board, I drilled another hole for the same 20 AWG LED+ wire, so it will connect directly to the spring. I got really close to cutting a trace (above right to the hole), but a continuity test with the DMM passed, so was ok:

Better close-up. The 2002 (20K) resistor seems to help to cut down the flash you get in turning on to moon mode:

Here's a top view after assembly. The grounds has 2 pts of contact: 1) a re-used post by the cap (lower right), and 2) a 22 AWG wire in the lower left. Here, I was able to take advantage of the USB connector ground where it has clearance inside the housing. The blue wire is 30 AWG single strand wire for the switch:

Shows the wire connections. The marked + spot on the base board has a 26 AWG wire connected to the underneath spring+ pad of the FET+1 driver - this provides power to the MCU, so no high amps needed:

Another view:

Yet another angle:

I added the LED wires after this, and the spring bypass's. I was gonna re-use the single screw for the MCPCB, but, it didn't fit well on a SinkPAD - the screw head would fall through, and make the SinkPAD go crooked. I tried a flat head brass screw, but the threads didn't match, and ended up breaking the head off. The brass screws I use can't take much force... Figured it didn't matter much, so left it as is. The X6R, like the X6's, have a pretty good fit of the reflector on the MCPCB, so wasn't too concerned about screwing it down. I really don't see any measurable results from screwed down MCPCB's, though I've done it many times. It's specially needed on zoomies with no hold down retainer, like the JAX Z1 has -- best I've ever seen in a zoomie.

With my custom firmware, the moon mode is really nice and low - I use a PWM value of 5 for only lighting up the 7135 (notice it's 380 mA). Mode 2 is 30 (only the 7135), and mode 3 is the full 7135. Mode 4 is full 7135 plus a 80 PWM value for the FET, the mode 5 is full FET only. I like this arrangement because the first 3 modes are a really nice neutral/warm tint operating on just the 7135. You do see a pretty good tint shift switching to mode 4, but I'd rather have better looking lower modes.

As I was typing this, I had the light on a wall USB charger (finally found a charger, from a old MP3 player), and it lit up RED and eventually turned BLUE, so seems to be working well! First light I modded where I could retain the stock charging circuit! Big advantage this light has for modding.

Was still able to use it for this light.

Great mod and great pictures! Tempting, but need to complete some other lights first…. So many different projects :slight_smile: , so little time…. :frowning:

Been charging all my batteries in this to test it before giving it to the person I bought it for. So far they’ve all come out at 4.21 which to my understanding is a little high but still acceptable.

Anyone tested the low voltage protection? Says indicator light at 3v; is there any hard cutoff below that?

Have also charged a couple of times. All showed 4.2V… Im not sure if it maybe indicates around 3.0 and shutsdown at 2.8 like some drivers do. Will sure test this before I give it away… But because I am waiting for BG to send me the new reflector(or DO anything) I unfornately have plenty of time…

Anyone tested if, and at what voltage the light shuts off?
Got mine in the mail today. Haven’t had time to test it yet. Family and stuff… :slight_smile:

Wow, can’t believe I missed the work TomE. Being able to keep the charging circuit is huge. This one definitely goes on my wishlist now

Smile Yes, I was very impressed with this light as a mod host. I'm always in the search for the "best" budget e-switch mod host in several form factors, and this is definitely one of them! I like the Y3's, the ZY-T11 clones (not the original Small Sun's), the Roche/Convoy F6, Roche AS31, and the line of small e-switch SolarStorm's (SC00..SC03), but the X6R is the best with the added micro USB charging feature.

The UranusFire 818 (KD best deal) and SupFire M2-Z (MtnE) are also pretty good contenders.

Got around to test my X6R. Very happy with it. Very very good host quality. High output and nice neutral-warm tint to my eyes. Maintained high output for a long time using a Keeppower 3200mah battery. All in all a better flashlight than several of my more expensive lights.

My copy also flashed and dimmed down as soon as it hit 2.8 volts.
I let it keep running for a while (at low). I aborted the test when the battery voltage read 2,68 volts. (2.71v after the battery had rested for 15 minutes).

Does this light not shut off at all…?

Hi,

I have scanned through another thread ( Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available ) and was wondering if kronological (excellent review, BTW), bugsy36 , ToyKeeper and others could help to clarify a few things.

I cannot find a website for Eagle Eye - are they a Banggood private label that modifies products by Manker?

I am looking for a USB rechargeable flashlight for my Mum that costs around £20 GBP including a battery, and this is my line of thinking:

- 1 x 10180:

- DQG Hobi with microUSB adapter: too fiddly

  • CooYoo Quantum SS / Stainless Steel: actually seems to be a little cheaper through EverBuying than GearBest, even when the Group Buy promo code is taken into account (although I notice that both sites, and DealsMachine, are operated by HICHINA ZHICHENG TECHNOLOGY LTD.)
    The Quantum would be the cheapest option. However, from time-to-time, she might require a brighter output than this can provide.

- 3 x 18650:

  • Jin Heng JKK18 and JKK35: too dear

- 1 x 18650:

- Fenix CL25R lantern: too dear

- Nitecore HC90 headlamp: too dear

- Fenix UC30 and above: too dear

- Nitecore MH10 and above: too dear

  • Eagle Eye X6R (bare unit, with a Sanyo / Panasonic NCR18650GA 3.6V 3500mAh bought separately): I have found the -£4.56 GBP code elsewhere, and when this is included the X6R seems to offer slightly better value than the Manker Rambler, which itself seems better value than the XTAR RC1 Darkwalker.

Thanks,

Nick

Manker Rambler or Eagle Eyes X6R for that range. Choose the best size.

EE does not have a website :(