Solarstorm DX4 dive light - anyone used it?

Actually if we take Tom E ’s measurements of the stock light at 2.4A on high, times 2 hrs = 5000 mah so yes a good capacity 26650 should just about do it.

Yes, I meant for the modded version. 2 hours is the minimum for burn time for me, sounds like 2 5200 mah 26650’s should do it…

I use KeepPower IMR5200mAh cells in mine and on high, the run-time is 3 hours. When the cells are nearly depleted, it starts blinking over and over again, even after going to the lower mode.

I have yet to use mine for diving purposes, but I'll only get down to 25 meters, or possibly 30 meters if the DM allows it. :)

The blinking sounds annoying for sure... I'll do a longer test on the 4000 mAh cells I have to hit the LVP level. Best cells for the mod light will be those 5200's, either KP or EVVA, protected of course. Hoping the 5200's won't hit as high current draw, so will lose some output but gain runtime. This light's driver is nothing too fancy - if it shows advantages for the spring bypass's, then it's not regulating very well. Of course might have to do with my resistor mod Wink.

Ohhh - sorry, think I was getting the models confused. There are two models:

Dx4: older model sold at CNQ and dis-continued at FastTech, head diam: 62mm (from FT), mag ring for modes

Dx4S: newer model, sold at BangGood, FastTech, KD, GearBest, head diam: 55mm (measured). thumb slider for modes

I have the Dx4S, bought from GearBest, that I've been modding. If I buy more, I'd buy from BangGood (banggood.com/Solarstorm-DX4S) with the 8% BLF code.

I did a total of 75 minutes in a bucket of water on hi with one pair of KP 4000's, and still going... Though amps starts at 4.8, it drops while the cells drain (driver not regulating well), so it's expected you will get over an hour out of 4000 mAh cells, but at well reduced output near the end.

After 75 mins: cells at 3.3v, tail amps: 1.65A

Update:

Another 13 minutes, the light finally died. Apparently a LVP triggered in a battery's protection circuit because it measure 0 volts. The other cell was at 3.1v. So total runtime with the mods:

1 hour and 28 minutes (8 minutes total)

In the last couple of minutes, I did notice a strobe effect, like a flickering. Not sure how long it was doing that.

Awesome results man! Brighter and a quarter of the price of an Xtar D35!
Like I said, would love to buy a modded one off you should you feel like modding any more of them!

Would you expect 2 KP 26650’s 5200mah to be able to provide enough amps?
Runtimes should be pretty close to 2 hours with the extra capacity

Yes - I'd like to mod one up for you. I can get expedited shipping from BangGood on qty 3 with the 8% discount, so qty 3, with one being for you, would be perfect for what I need right now. I'll place the order today. For the LED's, I can swap in XM-L2 neutrals, planning on leaving the stock MCPCB in - seems to be working very well, and I'm hesitant of messing with the vertical clearances if I change the MCPCB's to Noctigons or SinkPAD's.

I'm guessing the 5200's would be less top amps, but would not drop out as fast as the 4000's. The 4000 KP's and 4000 EVVA's are basically King Kong cells, so KK's are pretty low resistance and combined with a quality protection circuit, they have excellent performance for low resistance, high amps. Yes - I'm guessing the runtime would extend 25% on capacity alone, maybe longer, all depending on the discharge curve on how amps drop over time on these cells.

What would you suggest for Neutral tints? U2-3C, T6 4C, T4/T5 5B1's? The 4C and 5B1 are pretty cheap from Simon. I can probably get the U2-3C's bare from Hank, or quicker pre-mounted from Richard.

Also - can probably get the T5 5D3's bare from Hank, in the $5 range.

Hi Tom, are the 4 LED’s in series?

Looks 2S/2P to me. Didn't do measurements to confirm, but from traces, looks that way.

So that would be about 2.4A to each LED, is that correct?

Yes - 2.4A max, probably less. I measured 950 lumens per LED which is kind of high. I think my light box is over measuring multi-emitter flooders. But it is 1A, they say U2's, so it's the max you can get. Might be a alum DTP too, dunno.

That is pretty good already considering only minor moddings were done to it.

Is it only have Hi-Lo-Strobe as they advertise?

It's lo-hi-sos, or something like SOS, definitely not strobe like listed.

The Dx4S has a thumb slider, but with a spring. One slide up - turn ON or turn OFF. Slide up and hold: changes modes. It's got mode memory, and a heavy parasitic drain - measures 0.02A on my DMM, dropping to 0.01A as the cells drain. But it has a simple lock-out: little twist of the tailcap shuts off power.

I haven't taken apart the switch but looks do-able. The spring scares me a little, specially with salt water use. Of course the switch assembly is totally outside the body.

Perfect mate! About the tints, I’m not sure as I’ve never had the choice between NW’s, somewhere around 5000k to 5500k should be good, somewhere around the MM15 or the TN36 NW would be pretty much spot on.

Shame about the parasitic drain, means I have to remember to tighten the tail cap prior to getting in the water or it will flood. Still definitely want the light though. I can transfer you money whenever you need it

I got this pretty much set to go. Got it with XM-L2 T6 4C's (4200-4500K), if that's ok. I'll pm you.

Hi guys,

I’ve recently got myself a Solarstorm DX4s. I wanted to turn it into a fill light with a massive beam spread. I search all over the internet and nobody makes a diffuser / silicone cap for a 55mm diameter flashlight. The closest I found was the Nitecore NFD60 which is a 60mm diffuser. It has high quality diffuser optics. I doubt it will stay on a 55mm head though. Willing to DIY one if I cannot find it sooner. Anyone could please share their setups for this?

Scotch Satin tape over the window. It wouldn’t become all flood but will become floodier. Add more layers if necessary. The better alternative is DC fix but I’m not sure where one can get that.

Thanks for your input. I forgot to mention. I’m going to bring it with me for underwater deep dives. Perhaps down to 40 meters (131.234 ft). The Scotch tapes might not stay on.

If you can unscrew the bezel and access the window, stick the tape on the inside of the window. It’s just an alternative if you can’t find something to work. I’ve used a latex glove as a difuser too. lol. All flood and even warms up the tint a bit.