Solarstorm DX4 dive light - anyone used it?

Ohhh - sorry, think I was getting the models confused. There are two models:

Dx4: older model sold at CNQ and dis-continued at FastTech, head diam: 62mm (from FT), mag ring for modes

Dx4S: newer model, sold at BangGood, FastTech, KD, GearBest, head diam: 55mm (measured). thumb slider for modes

I have the Dx4S, bought from GearBest, that I've been modding. If I buy more, I'd buy from BangGood (banggood.com/Solarstorm-DX4S) with the 8% BLF code.

I did a total of 75 minutes in a bucket of water on hi with one pair of KP 4000's, and still going... Though amps starts at 4.8, it drops while the cells drain (driver not regulating well), so it's expected you will get over an hour out of 4000 mAh cells, but at well reduced output near the end.

After 75 mins: cells at 3.3v, tail amps: 1.65A

Update:

Another 13 minutes, the light finally died. Apparently a LVP triggered in a battery's protection circuit because it measure 0 volts. The other cell was at 3.1v. So total runtime with the mods:

1 hour and 28 minutes (8 minutes total)

In the last couple of minutes, I did notice a strobe effect, like a flickering. Not sure how long it was doing that.

Awesome results man! Brighter and a quarter of the price of an Xtar D35!
Like I said, would love to buy a modded one off you should you feel like modding any more of them!

Would you expect 2 KP 26650’s 5200mah to be able to provide enough amps?
Runtimes should be pretty close to 2 hours with the extra capacity

Yes - I'd like to mod one up for you. I can get expedited shipping from BangGood on qty 3 with the 8% discount, so qty 3, with one being for you, would be perfect for what I need right now. I'll place the order today. For the LED's, I can swap in XM-L2 neutrals, planning on leaving the stock MCPCB in - seems to be working very well, and I'm hesitant of messing with the vertical clearances if I change the MCPCB's to Noctigons or SinkPAD's.

I'm guessing the 5200's would be less top amps, but would not drop out as fast as the 4000's. The 4000 KP's and 4000 EVVA's are basically King Kong cells, so KK's are pretty low resistance and combined with a quality protection circuit, they have excellent performance for low resistance, high amps. Yes - I'm guessing the runtime would extend 25% on capacity alone, maybe longer, all depending on the discharge curve on how amps drop over time on these cells.

What would you suggest for Neutral tints? U2-3C, T6 4C, T4/T5 5B1's? The 4C and 5B1 are pretty cheap from Simon. I can probably get the U2-3C's bare from Hank, or quicker pre-mounted from Richard.

Also - can probably get the T5 5D3's bare from Hank, in the $5 range.

Hi Tom, are the 4 LED’s in series?

Looks 2S/2P to me. Didn't do measurements to confirm, but from traces, looks that way.

So that would be about 2.4A to each LED, is that correct?

Yes - 2.4A max, probably less. I measured 950 lumens per LED which is kind of high. I think my light box is over measuring multi-emitter flooders. But it is 1A, they say U2's, so it's the max you can get. Might be a alum DTP too, dunno.

That is pretty good already considering only minor moddings were done to it.

Is it only have Hi-Lo-Strobe as they advertise?

It's lo-hi-sos, or something like SOS, definitely not strobe like listed.

The Dx4S has a thumb slider, but with a spring. One slide up - turn ON or turn OFF. Slide up and hold: changes modes. It's got mode memory, and a heavy parasitic drain - measures 0.02A on my DMM, dropping to 0.01A as the cells drain. But it has a simple lock-out: little twist of the tailcap shuts off power.

I haven't taken apart the switch but looks do-able. The spring scares me a little, specially with salt water use. Of course the switch assembly is totally outside the body.

Perfect mate! About the tints, I’m not sure as I’ve never had the choice between NW’s, somewhere around 5000k to 5500k should be good, somewhere around the MM15 or the TN36 NW would be pretty much spot on.

Shame about the parasitic drain, means I have to remember to tighten the tail cap prior to getting in the water or it will flood. Still definitely want the light though. I can transfer you money whenever you need it

I got this pretty much set to go. Got it with XM-L2 T6 4C's (4200-4500K), if that's ok. I'll pm you.

Hi guys,

I’ve recently got myself a Solarstorm DX4s. I wanted to turn it into a fill light with a massive beam spread. I search all over the internet and nobody makes a diffuser / silicone cap for a 55mm diameter flashlight. The closest I found was the Nitecore NFD60 which is a 60mm diffuser. It has high quality diffuser optics. I doubt it will stay on a 55mm head though. Willing to DIY one if I cannot find it sooner. Anyone could please share their setups for this?

Scotch Satin tape over the window. It wouldn’t become all flood but will become floodier. Add more layers if necessary. The better alternative is DC fix but I’m not sure where one can get that.

Thanks for your input. I forgot to mention. I’m going to bring it with me for underwater deep dives. Perhaps down to 40 meters (131.234 ft). The Scotch tapes might not stay on.

If you can unscrew the bezel and access the window, stick the tape on the inside of the window. It’s just an alternative if you can’t find something to work. I’ve used a latex glove as a difuser too. lol. All flood and even warms up the tint a bit.

Do you used KeepPower IMR5200mAh with or without protection circuit?

Does the blinking mean, that the DX4s got a low voltage warning?

In case of it has low voltage warning or a shut off underneath 3V, why “protected” cells are necessary?

The current is not that high, that it will destroy the cell.
I believe the protection circuit in this case is only for low voltage protection or not?

I’ve bought two DX4S for diving with my girlfriend. I ordered it with these batteries:

On the first dive it worked fine, was amazed by the output of light in water with ± 3m visibility. But on the second time charging, 2 of the batteries don’t seem to charge and the other 2 looked to charge fine but on the dive it looked as i had very little light. My first guess is these batteries don’t do the job but the charger also could be the reason the batteries don’t work fine. Can anyone help troubleshoot so i can get diving with these lights again?

Thanks in advance!

Maybe check voltage of the 26650’s with a DMM? You bought a pretty cheap and crappy charger / battery combo, might be worth checking the charger is doing its job.

Stop using this charger and those cells, they are probably very low quality and could even be dangerous.

Li-ion batteries require more care then the Ni-MH we are all used to… and you don’t want to mess with them, especially in a 2S configuration. It is very recommended to use reputed brand name cells and charger.

Look for LiitoKala Li 500 charger and 5000 mAh 26650 for instance - although these are unprotected.
KeepPower protected 26650… there are others.