Yes, the via's are the holes connecting the two sides of the board, on my picture the solder mask is still present and holes are not filled yet. I just heat up with the solder iron and just add a generous amount of rosin core solder wire and the holes will fill up. If not all holes are full, you can have another go from the battery side of the board.
Drilling a hole is a sure way to get it done as well, but filling up those via's (or even not filling them up probably) is way sufficient.
Thanks :),
Does this mod have any influence on mode changing?(mode memory is still present?) and how it looks on lower modes like low and medium?
The lower modes look normal, and so does memory. I never checked the low voltage protection and reverse polarity protection, but I see no way how they should be affected by this mod (the board lay-out is effectively the same as Wight's board, which is directly derived from these NANJG boards).
A tip: glue the FET down, because being upside down it is only soldered on one side and the led-minus wire attached on the top could rip it off while fiddling to get the driver/pill/ledboard attached. I never glued it but the FET did tilt during this last build with the thick led wires.
Tip2 solder two legs from the Attiny together (or connect one of the stars to ground) to get rid of the blinkies.
Thank you very much Sir! You are one extraordinary man (you would not believe how much you helped me past two years...)
10xAK47 driver ordered from FT (although I have single mode AK 101/105's like drivers that are bit different from original nanjgs).
For glue advice I think I will use AA for FET and pot whole driver with Fujik.
Will try to run protected generic cells like samsung 2600 on this cause I don't need currents higher than 3A.
Your thread here is very educative.
Djozz,
I am just curious about one thing here... Did you left stock omten switch or you swapped it to another one?
I left in the stock switch, it did not say Omten but looked decent enough, was that a wrong assumption?
These type of FET drivers hardly produce heat, they can float in air if you want.
And I still find it surprising that what I test or make up in the middle of a city in a country that never really gets dark, appears to be actually useful for folks who properly make use of flashlights :-)
Plenty of guys said that original switch sucks.
In your thread MRsDNF did review of 1504 switch in post 51.
I don't see any problem with it although I do re solder contacts to make sure it sticks good.
In fact I got one batch of omten switches from IO store that looked absolutely the same as UF's but they did not have any omten markings on front or rear.
Maybe you would have even better performance with genuine omten?
I replace my switches with Omten or Kan’s. I’ve burned up a few of the stock switches.
Hmm, already put the light in the mail. But Nicolaas lives in Amsterdam, when I see him sometime I will replace the switch all the same.
The ones I burned up were running at 5A. They would handle it for a little while but ultimately would fail. There were some that didn’t fail and only 2-3 that did fail, but to err on the side of caution I just replaced them.
Guys,
Where did you bought your genuine omten or kan switches? Can you link some to people. I saw on FT https://www.fasttech.com/products/1135000 but I am affraid to risk. TomE said this:
I don't know what to do since I did ordered from IOS and they came without any markings. Never did complaint to IO about that. And switches are working fine. But this kind of threads, and switch reviews makes you think what have you actually bought...
Or maybe some of you guys tried to fit forward clicky to UF brothers?
So these switches from IOS came unmarked?
Yes I got them unmarked(5pcs). Ordered at 04 May.
@Djozz: I measured the UF1504 at approx 430 as well and I do have a couple of spare switches lying around.
I’ll see if I can replace it myself and then measure the throw again.
The realitive low amp draw could also be down to a high Vf led……
Grtz
Nico
Try that + ultimate switch bypass.
Video about how to is here
Picture is here post 156
Thanks to the author DBCstm
Just an update for my measured output of my best performing 1504’s now that I’ve got a calibration that should have me close to the same measurements as djozz’s Mobilux A. With the stainless collars it’s 518-520kcd. Without the collars they’re coming in at 434kcd.
That’s with dedomed direct drive XP-G2 S3 3C’s, a dedomed direct drive XP-L V6 3C is about 270kcd.
A 1405 with a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B at 5A makes 588kcd. :bigsmile:
I’m still waiting for one of your decorative egg holders to show up at my door…
Hi KKW. What driver do you run in your 1405?
Nice 
i almost wished i hadn’t read this……now i feel a very strong urge to pick up a 1405 & buy one of Richard high Amp buck drivers…….almost 600kcd :bigsmile:
I just have to ask is that 588kcd from a light without a collar? I hope it is, but if not please check what you get with one because it should do about 100kcd extra on to of that 588kcd 
I use the 5A buck driver Richard sells. The 588kcd is with a collar that adds about 20% to the base output.