KronoReview: Eagle Eye X6R

Great mod and great pictures! Tempting, but need to complete some other lights first…. So many different projects :slight_smile: , so little time…. :frowning:

Been charging all my batteries in this to test it before giving it to the person I bought it for. So far they’ve all come out at 4.21 which to my understanding is a little high but still acceptable.

Anyone tested the low voltage protection? Says indicator light at 3v; is there any hard cutoff below that?

Have also charged a couple of times. All showed 4.2V… Im not sure if it maybe indicates around 3.0 and shutsdown at 2.8 like some drivers do. Will sure test this before I give it away… But because I am waiting for BG to send me the new reflector(or DO anything) I unfornately have plenty of time…

Anyone tested if, and at what voltage the light shuts off?
Got mine in the mail today. Haven’t had time to test it yet. Family and stuff… :slight_smile:

Wow, can’t believe I missed the work TomE. Being able to keep the charging circuit is huge. This one definitely goes on my wishlist now

Smile Yes, I was very impressed with this light as a mod host. I'm always in the search for the "best" budget e-switch mod host in several form factors, and this is definitely one of them! I like the Y3's, the ZY-T11 clones (not the original Small Sun's), the Roche/Convoy F6, Roche AS31, and the line of small e-switch SolarStorm's (SC00..SC03), but the X6R is the best with the added micro USB charging feature.

The UranusFire 818 (KD best deal) and SupFire M2-Z (MtnE) are also pretty good contenders.

Got around to test my X6R. Very happy with it. Very very good host quality. High output and nice neutral-warm tint to my eyes. Maintained high output for a long time using a Keeppower 3200mah battery. All in all a better flashlight than several of my more expensive lights.

My copy also flashed and dimmed down as soon as it hit 2.8 volts.
I let it keep running for a while (at low). I aborted the test when the battery voltage read 2,68 volts. (2.71v after the battery had rested for 15 minutes).

Does this light not shut off at all…?

Hi,

I have scanned through another thread ( Code now public! BLF A6 FET+7135 Light. Short 18350 tubes and Unanodized Lights Available ) and was wondering if kronological (excellent review, BTW), bugsy36 , ToyKeeper and others could help to clarify a few things.

I cannot find a website for Eagle Eye - are they a Banggood private label that modifies products by Manker?

I am looking for a USB rechargeable flashlight for my Mum that costs around £20 GBP including a battery, and this is my line of thinking:

- 1 x 10180:

- DQG Hobi with microUSB adapter: too fiddly

  • CooYoo Quantum SS / Stainless Steel: actually seems to be a little cheaper through EverBuying than GearBest, even when the Group Buy promo code is taken into account (although I notice that both sites, and DealsMachine, are operated by HICHINA ZHICHENG TECHNOLOGY LTD.)
    The Quantum would be the cheapest option. However, from time-to-time, she might require a brighter output than this can provide.

- 3 x 18650:

  • Jin Heng JKK18 and JKK35: too dear

- 1 x 18650:

- Fenix CL25R lantern: too dear

- Nitecore HC90 headlamp: too dear

- Fenix UC30 and above: too dear

- Nitecore MH10 and above: too dear

  • Eagle Eye X6R (bare unit, with a Sanyo / Panasonic NCR18650GA 3.6V 3500mAh bought separately): I have found the -£4.56 GBP code elsewhere, and when this is included the X6R seems to offer slightly better value than the Manker Rambler, which itself seems better value than the XTAR RC1 Darkwalker.

Thanks,

Nick

Manker Rambler or Eagle Eyes X6R for that range. Choose the best size.

EE does not have a website :(

Does Eagle Eye have an email adress?

Because I can still not find any info on if (and at what voltage) the X6R shuts off. Only that it goes into a low mode at 2.8 volts. Would like to know if it ever shuts completely off. (Yeah…, I know it kind of has to shut off when there’s absolutely no more power in the battery :wink:

Would like to ask EE this myself, unless anyone else has this information?

If nobody knows, I would appreciate a PM with their e-mail -if at all possible.

Eagle Eye is just another re-branding distributor/vendor company - they don't make the lights they sell, so not surprising they have no online presence. Can't recall who it was named as the real X6 manufacturer (I know I posted it here on BLF in some thread...). Eagle Eye at first didn't even want their name on the BLF Special Edition - it was the BLF team that insisted on it. One BLF'er was negotiating with the real manufacturer to resell - don't think it ever happened, probably because of the success of the group buys.

EE is just one of the many brands that work with ODM companies, they usually release a couple products and then re-appear as a different brand. This is a very common way for chinese companies to evade taxes/legal matters.

Yes, seems like that's what's happening. Some brands do not want to be found, others, like Convoy, have a strong long term presence. But Simon w/Convoy, really tries to add value (drivers, LED options, etc.) and offer great support. His lights, or should say hosts, can be found around under different brands. Roche/Rocher for example, seems to overlap, and in the case of the F6, he took it over. Really surprised we haven't found the X6 or X6R under a different brand, at least I dunno of any.

Any idea if the stock driver would work with an Attiny13 with familiar firmware? An mcu swap would be even easier than a driver swap

It flashes two times once a minute, but does NOT shut off. I dont think it is of any point to go lower. The battery goes to recycling.

Stock MCU is a PIC - different pin outs, you can see it in the pics I posted in post #70. Could try air wiring up an Atmel, but I dunno enough about that circuit. It's been done before though by BLFers with other drivers. This light deserves a FET based driver though.

Tom, are you using an e-switch firmware and just leaving the tail switch on all the time? I want to use Star dual-switch on a driver swap, but I’m assuming that would mean the light would have to be “on” while charging.

The tailswitch in this case acts as a lockout. When I carry the light in a bag/pocket, I turn it off on the tailswitch to avoid accidental e-switch activiation. However, as soon as I get a chance, I'll be updating the firmware/MCU to a ATtiny25 with my new firmware that supports an e-switch and power switch functionality. You can fully operate it on the tail switch with NOINIT, memory, etc., but also the e-switch is fully working like my standard e-switch firmware - Best of Both. I think the LD-1/LD-2 drivers work this way as well.

This X6R is perfect for this ATtiny25 upgrade (see https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/34900). I needed more code space to get the combined e-switch and Star_NOINIT working - think it took 1070 bytes currently, where a 13A is limited to 1024 bytes. Also want to get the 25's temp sensor iimplemented, but didn't start on that yet. The ATtiny25's I have are a simple drop-in replacement for a 13A, but the 45's and 85's are a wider footprint, and require either to clip the pins or bend them to fit on a typical 13A driver board. Wight's 22mm FET+1 driver though can mount a 45 or 85 direct without bending pins.

but even with the larger Attiny, you would still need the “soft” ‘off’, otherwise the light will be shining during charging, right?

I wanted to give one of these to my grandfather. I wanted it to be very simple, without any long presses or double clicks: 2modes, on/off with the tail switch, low/high with the side switch, that’s it. But since the tail switch has to be ‘on’ to complete the circuit, the light would have to be shining during charging. that’s not optimal.

Hhmm. I see what you mean, but if I were you, I would add an e-switch OFF mode: OFF-low-hi, all with single clicks only - no long presses or dbl-clicks needed, as you would like, and solves the charging problem, and more flexible but still easy UI (you can also turn the light OFF on the side switch).

You could do an e-switch piggyback driver to get this functionality, or try to experiment with an MCU replacement - might not be easy or simple - different components than our standard ones (3 legged ones), so might need some serious reverse engineering - probably beyond my scope.

Cheap route would be a 105C or QLite driver with e-switch firmware programmed for the modes - rip off the stock piggyback, replace with this one.

I have a whole different plan with a more robust UI.