^ Whoa! That is fricken awesome! How do you like the tint at that level of output?
Thanks for the contact info above.
The tint is wonderful across the board and just insane at max output. Really stoked about it, for sure.
Top Fuel Rail Light
I polished just the cup of the CUTE-4 optics, using my finger tip and Mother’s Billet Aluminum Polish. The optic has cupped faces with a small flat bottom and a point in the middle between the merged quad TIR’s, I left that alone and just polished the cup with the top surface surround still retaining the diffusion.
Never seen an 18650 do 20A before, not one by itself. Freaky.
A monster with good color!
Dale, you are a freak, a freak at what you do in miniature. What a nice job. Only you buddy.
It is weird how this goes, I test a led and tell the world in a convincing graph what the capabilities are (in this case: awesome), but that is not enough for the world, it needs a Frank'nDale and an overthetop flashlight build for the world to really believe it. And the weirdest thing is: it even works for me that way: that is a great mod with idiotic results, Dale!! And I love the way you used copper slabs to distribute the electrical ledboard connections. :-)
(...apart from that the Ti light might not be the best host for a 20A gut..)
^ I for one apologize. I read this thread when it came out, but I see I didn't post anything. I try to post at least once to every thread contribution I read. This thread definitely deserved more attention.
So Dale. You already have started building some report with a US rep. Maybe you can see what price you can get us in a US GB? If not, may you can hand the rep off to a BLF member that will volunteer to host a massive GB. These emitters will sell like hot cakes. Hard to imagine how many will be wanted, but it will be a big number.
Love your build up above. :)
Hahaha djozz, I hear ya…. I had already been talking to the rep when you tested those 83CRI, was trying to get the 90CRI variant. When I was told they’d be out in a couple of months, August or end of, I put it all on a back burner and forgot about it. Then when the 90CRI version was canned, they offered samples of the 83CRI so I accepted. Then when I started trying to find out about this one, I saw your post.
Those charts convinced me to put em in the Quad, I had concerns that they wouldn’t handle the FET driver with their 1.8A max rating. You showed otherwise so I knew they’d be ok in this light.
There’s a massive chunk of copper in this one, and the cooling fins actually do work here with the X6 style. Granted, once hot it doesn’t cool as quickly as Al or Cu would, but I’m a TiFreak, what can I say?
I’ll look into it 4Wheelr, might be that Richard can get us a best price buying a larger quantity. Also working that angle already and getting Richard sold on these. 
(djozz’s charts speak volumes, Richard likes that kind of testing, more so than mine. 
)
Sounds like I should have bought 20 instead. So much for selling the extras, I guess I need to find a use for them. Perhaps a run of custom lights, only a much bigger run than I was planning on.
Your price might not be so bad, let's wait when and at what price others sell them for. I will at least get them to you as soon as I have them in house :-)
No worries, they’ll be used instead of XP-G2’s in a run of flashlights. It was the project I was referring to when I backed out of the scratch built light contest. I was already considering them because of the lower Vf and the ease of using a parallel battery configuration and a linear driver, vs series and a buck driver to push an XP-G2 to 5+ amps. My main concern with them was availability, that seems to be a non-issue now. As long as they dedome well and work well under a collar they should be fantastic.
I knew I was taking a risk buying twice as many as I need, but the price break at 100 was too big to ignore.
Ehhm, no one by my knowledge has managed to dedome these yet. 
I tried twice with a hot method (did not post about the second attempt), the first try was a total failure (see somewhere above), with the second try I managed to clear most of the silicone but a messy layer was leftover on top of the die, but with the led still working, and I think it will do the job (tint alteration and increased illuminance of the die). It was not something I would dare to sell...
Someone needs to experiment with gas dedoming or slicing.
FrankenDale! OHHH FRANK-en-DALE!!! Where are you man? We need your help here! :bigsmile:
Daniel is 8 today, we’re about to drive to Austin and go to Chucky Cheese, visit a couple of parks, maybe hike a trail or two, who knows, we may end up at Enchanted Rock and give this old man a workout.
In that case, what-are-you-doing-here? Go! Have fun! Forget about us for a day! :bigsmile:
We know you will be “hanging out” at Hippie Hollow…
^ 
Take care Google Image searching the above at work folks (NSFW).
“I hear nothing, I see nothing, I know nothing!”
Dale, Where does your Ti X6 sit on the “Most lumens from a single cell” list? It has to be right near the top
It is the king, the previous title holder was my X6 with SBT-70 at just over 17A. But that is a single emitter on a single cell, so it still holds a title of it’s own, different league.
The LG HE-4, freshly charged, will hit 21.3A in this one, with 4123 lumens.
Oddly enough, it’s little brother the HE-2 only allows 19.54A but has the highest lumens number at 4278. I always find it interesting how the cells act and react. Ya just never know which one will be the top dog in a given light.
A pic of my daughter’s old room, brightly painted with enough colored objects around to get a good idea how this one works…
Here’s the base shot, set as white balance before taking the above pic…
I had one 219C leftover (more coming..) and because I want them dedomed as well for a build, I went into the slicing business
. Never really been there before, I'm a hot dedomer and quite disturbed that my good old method does not work on these.
I had one slightly succesful slicing expereince on a Luxeon Q before, and remembered from that one that I needed a slicing guide. The Nicha dome being so stiff I reckoned that it needs slicing thin slices at a time so here's how I solved that (anyone done that before?):
I have this singfire SS C3 waiting for a build sometime (it is actually too heavy for my taste), with a nice brass pill with flat ledboard base. Sanded that base a bit flatter even, and the flashlight head is a pretty convenient adjustable slicing device. It needs a pretty stiff slicing blade, so I used a spare blade for my little Davids planer. One of those break-blades for utility knives should work as well, as well as a blade for the traditional Stanley knife.
With pill upside down, by slowly screwing the pill out (one 20th turn at a time) the dome could be removed slice by slice, making sure the blade was at about the same angle every time and making long smooth slices with a minimum of pressure. The ledboard was pushed down onto the pill pressing my nail right next to the led. This only works well btw if the led is reflowed nice and flat on the ledboard, or the slicing will not be plane with the die.
I ended just above the die, dangerously close in fact, a fraction of the mm, you can see that at the right side of the die the silicone already crumbled a bit and makes a dip.
It helped for controlling the slicing that it was done under a stereo microscope.
At the right at 0.5mA.
From how that looks, you could sell that :-) . I have not proved the result by making a thrower with it that rivals the latest dedomed XP-G2 S4, but it should work alright I guess, at least the tint seems a nice 4000K to me (but I want to see that of course ;-) )..