Check out my X6R mod details in post #78 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/33113. It's a fwd clicky tail switch and is now running my e-switch/NOINIT combo on a 25.
I got it during the 8/25 sale
Hmm… The C20 has a weird nylon retainer / spring setup, while both the X6R and L4 look like they’ll need the driver piggybacked. None seem ideal. But all I really need for development is a simple tube light head and some extruded parts set up for easy access. The host is more for testing real-world use later in the process.
What would be really cool is a Roche F6 with a switch in the tail instead of a glass breaker. Of course, that also would require a special driver due to the way the switch is handled… like, a derivative of Helios’ driver.
pilotdog68, I think the attiny13a might be able to handle a dual-PWM ramping firmware with the ability to use a tail switch for momentary tactical purposes. No mode groups, but you’d have quick access to virtually every possible level. Would this work? (I’ve been meaning to make one of those, but don’t yet have a FET+1 with an e-switch)
Ahh, missed that... Could be the Crelant 2015 version has some internal design changes, maybe. Jack's review was back in 2013. I'm thinking though they only changed the LED to XM-L2.
Ramping isn’t my thing personally, but I’ll be very interested in whatever you come up with. The more options we have for dual-switch lights the better.
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I’m just worried all the cool kids are going to move on to the big mcu’s and I’ll be sitting here in the dirt with my 13’s :bigsmile:
I ordered the one that said 2015 version because it looked like the side button didn’t stick out an obnoxious amount (like some others did).
Even from Store.Crelant.com the price is only ~$25, so I’m not sure if they’re “fake” crelants or not. I’m just hoping the quality is as good as Jack’s sample was. They shipped e-packet, so hopefully it will come quickly. If been saving my Nichia 219c for it.
Oh, I totally missed that. It looks like all the hard parts (figuring out what to do) are done! I should probably go for the X6R as a host instead. 
The X6R definitely looks like a nicer host overall… and having the switch built in to the piggyback setup would make testing easier. Plus having the charge circuit and indicator LEDs continue working after the mod is an unexpected bonus.
I feel like a fish, flip-flopping around so much today.
Hi Tom,
I am just curious of you got the PM I send you on 8/24/15 or not?
TK, the F35 is pretty a sweet little light. The host may still be on sale for $15. There is a ton of space in the driver compartment. You would just need to rig up something to hold the momentary switch. You could use plastic, wood, copper, sugru, etc.
I wouldn't use a long post switch like below. Just stuck it in there to get the concept across.
Yes, sorry, been tied up - no progress. I'll pm you today, later.
Hey guys, I finally got an AVR Dragon so I can do HV programming. If any of you have bricked chips you want reset you can send them to me and I'll try and fix them for you (no cost, just shipping).
I've got a few more projects to get out of the way then I'm going to flash my beta firmware from a month or so ago and see if it actually works...it built then, but I never had a chance to try it.
Which variants of the Attiny45 and 85 are you using? Are they the same package size? I’m going to see if I can fit one of them on my new driver
Attiny45 and 85 are only available in a wider package. But by bending the legs under, it can be made to fit on board meant for attiny13.
I was going to see if I could fit the pads so you wouldn’t have to bend the legs
Here's what I would lovingly call a "ghetto mod" 17mm FET + 7135 driver. It's rough around the edges, but it should work for those of you who are early adopters. Still lots of edge clearance.
So which package size did you use, Richard?
That's the SU instead of SSU. Longer legs, same pin pitch, and room for a much wider body as well.
Ahhh, cool!! Thanks Richard! I gotta order some - do you think it's fairly low risk, meaning good shot at working well?
Yeah I think it's low risk for functionality, but high risk for being ugly. Good thing is that nobody will see that side. ;)
^ Nice to see this board RMM. The pad for MCU Pin 1 looks really close to the FET gate pad. Seems like solder may bridge the two pads.